Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

omfg. instant hardon... I want one...

-D

mmmmmmm garage porn..lol

needs the mandatory tire posters and snap on tools posters with half nude girlies..lol,,, and the keg bar fridge and couch for mates parties after hours.lol

they could leave the GT3 in it for me too..lol

*long winded explanation*

I've already added a cusco brake cylinder brace and braided brake lines and those two improve the feeling/response of the brakes quite a bit. The new rotors should really seal the deal, I can't see myself needing bigger calipers or disc diameter...

-D

I researched the brake cylinder stopper a bit today, and had responses from "nope, dont bother on a street car, no difference" to "wow i felt the difference straight away!" I guess with more rigidity in the cylinder your always going to get a better pedal feel.

Well just got my car back with some new goodies on, she's sweet as! Props to Andrew (Blue32) for the help and Pete (SLED) for the parts :P

I'm off to bed, night all :laugh:

nice work Luke, let me no when ya free n we'll go for a boost

fk fk fk, i got mass missfire!! halp!

upped the boost to 11 today, stock turbo, hybrid front mount, 3.5" trust cat back, wrapped coil packs in insulation, re-gaped plugs to .8mm and get a few flat spots from 5 - 6.500 rpm.

anything else i can do apart from new coil packs and ecu management?

i was hoping it wouldn't be anywhere near as bad... think I might put off dump pipe and high flow cat till i get a piggyback or remap :P

dont even bother with new coils Marko.

ecu

recommendations?

full house (the car is auto sadly so pfc is off limits...)

piggyback

remap

???

note, i don't have a lot of money to play with atm saving up for paintjob.

Edited by tx3_90
Mate i would be putting my money on coil packs

Whack it on the dyno and you will find the reason in about 5 minutes

haha yeah i thought the coil packs would be rooted after so many years in a very hot place. however in saying that ill give insulation silicone a go first. If it holds 10-11psi without misfiring ill be happy, saves me $500 till i really need it (i hope). not planning on going any higher than that for a while.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 49719 is the cooler loop. Right at the front, LHS of that diagram. Return line from rack (LP side) goes to cooler loop on RHS front of car, then back under engine and returns to bottom of tank. 49717M is feed from tank to pump. HP line out of pump is thick rubber, followed by the hard line that runs down to crossmember and runs in parallel (but opposite flow direction) to the LP return line. Nothing goes anywhere near the firewall or interior of car. The closest they get to that is the connections on the rack.
    • Thanks, plan is to drain all fluid tomorrow and do smoke test to find out the leak.   Appreciate your help and want to understand how the system work. So cooling is achieved by the long loop not any rad? The diagram seems to suggest it connects to somewhere inside the cabin and I thought that is a cooler inside firewall. If you look at the diagram it seems to show it connects to something inside firewall. I tried chasing it but not easy unless I take loads off   i am confident pump is good as fluid goes in and it gets soft( steering) but as soon as I turn engine off , loads of bubble come to surface and overflow. When engine is on , fluid level is below minimum but when off it shoots off and thinking it is sucking air in. I suspect aluminium pipe may have a crack line or whole   smoke test with no fluid should be a good start and if needed will remove the pump   In addition, the one going under the engine bay is high pressure line and one directly connecting from pump to resorvoir is return/ low pressure?   finally I searched and suggestion is to use dexron 2 but that is discontinued so bought dexron 3 as all research suggest it is compatible and shouldn’t cause any issues/ blow seals. I bought two liter of dexron 3 motul atf
    • Don't worry about. Just don't try to drive hard enough to make boost and you'll be fine.
    • Yes. This has already been said. It is a loop of hardline in front of the radiator. Because.... the pump is on the LHS and the steering rack hydraulic connections are where they always are on a RHD steering rack....on the RHS. The high pressure line goes down under the engine, along the crossmember, like it does on all Skylines. Don't just throw expensive braided hoses/other kits at it. Work out what is wrong and fix that.
    • Still got the afm on the intake, clamps are shut tight, only loose hose is the one that goes from the j pipe towards the IACV, since it's next to impossible to find a factory hose and the barbs are different sizes (I'm still using clamps on this hose to try and help it seal on the iacv side) I've ordered parts to make up the hotside of the intercooler pipes, I'll plumb it in and see what happens in a few days I suppose The turbo's internally gated, can I just unscrew the tension rod to let the gate open?
×
×
  • Create New...