Jump to content
SAU Community

The Sa Wasteland


Cubes
 Share

Recommended Posts

are the headlights sunken in cant really see what the problem is with that picture

if it is that there sunken in, possibly like the R33 gtr the R32 would have longer guards therefore the lights need to come forward but it wont happen with a GTSt bonnet

hey this is my problem... (example pic!)

i have a massive gap inbetween the bottom of my headlight and the top of the bar! how do i get this to become flush?

any ideas? and ppl say i have to use the gtr reo bar... wats the reo bar lol!!

cheers!

post-16535-1210046126_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

that isnt a pic of mine! but thats were the problem is! theres like a gap! the bar sits prob 10mm under the light!

wouls the reo bar lift this up?

cheers

Link to comment
Share on other sites

id say a gtst one is going to do a better job then none.

but if theyre around the same price get a gtr one.

while were on the subject, would the gtr32 reo bars be different because of factory fmic?

Edited by ted180
Link to comment
Share on other sites

nice work dave

goin to be runnin round like the proverbial next friday

got paint to order

alarm quotes (rippin this POS one outta the ute and gettin a decent one fitted)

pair of spotties quoted / ordered

uhf radio quoted / ordered

head to u-pull-it to get another bonnet

try and get some foam tape to seal between the tray and the canopy, and hopefully get some new rubbers all round for it too :down:

and im sure there's more to think of LOL

Link to comment
Share on other sites

or 1 hair dryer and a supercharger ala Nissan March :bunny:

looks OK as long as they hang 1 or 2 hair dryers off it

go see Ric at Auto Perfection tell him Steve sent you from Skylines Australia :down:

nice work dave

goin to be runnin round like the proverbial next friday

got paint to order

alarm quotes (rippin this POS one outta the ute and gettin a decent one fitted)

pair of spotties quoted / ordered

uhf radio quoted / ordered

head to u-pull-it to get another bonnet

try and get some foam tape to seal between the tray and the canopy, and hopefully get some new rubbers all round for it too :D

and im sure there's more to think of LOL

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ..m'kay.... I see on my phone you're having difficulties interpreting the artfully hand drawn R31 wiring diagrams... you wouldn't credit it, but they're actually more accurate than those colour diagrams in gregory's and the like... ...for your purposes though, the wiring colour legend is on sheet 1.... ....the fuel pump connector is top right on sheet 2.... ...pin1 (black) goes to chassis ground -- pin5 (light green/red trace)... The best way to navigate those drawings, is to open them up in whatever image manipulation/paint program you like, and use the straight line/ruler  tool (with a highlight colour) to trace along the wire lines...not hard, no rocket science involved... Fun facts: The OEM diagrams are drawn to top trim level spec ~ so for example, you're looking at Silo spec wiring, but the base S3 Executive trim is also covered by the same drawing (base models just don't have all the add-on luxury bits) One of the more sublime bits of errata, is this bit... The wire splice between pins7,14 doesn't exist (red) -- the bridge on the cluster PCB between the same pins (green) does exist...but it's not 'there' physically...it's actually more towards the center of the PCB, exactly at the spot where they tend to crack...and if it does, only half the dash lights work... can drive you nuts chasing it ; don't ; just solder in the missing splice... These are 'intentional' soldered and taped splices inside the loom(s) ~ there's also unintentional splices like this, due to manufacturing process when a spool of one particular coloured wire runs out, and they splice in/on a new spool. Those splices above are in the loom, LHS, underneath the front guard panel (remove to get at loom)... if water's gotten into the looms, you can expect corrosion at these splices ... keep this stuff in mind, if in the future you get any weird electrical faults... 👍  
    • that looks identical to the WGNC34 Stagea one I was poking around the other day. Is the other end of that not the ECU plug? If so checking continuity at both ends will tell you which ECU wire it is.  I can start by telling you ECU pin 31 is the top of the large pins on the right in your second pic
    • Bit late....but the one on my stagea has additional holes too, it is for clearance of the bolt heads which hold the radiator latch upright to the radiator support (ie, they are not to locate the panel)
    • My gut feeling was also blowby, it is absolutely crazy when you see how much engines actually breathe when they run a lot of boost or are heavily modified. If you can ever see a motor on a dyno it's pretty crazy, full on steam train action. I thought I was going crazy when filling a 500ml catch can in one 20 minute track session, or maybe two. It's been awhile. But then I saw how much _worse_ it is with harder running engines and I was pretty shocked. In any case I would definitely use more than 1L in 1000miles with that kind of load going through it :p It going nowhere.... is... unusual
×
×
  • Create New...