Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Good luck with that turbo Abe, i've just been recommended a 3076 with .6 rear. Reckons it'll be good for 280rwkw!

Got off the phone to hypergear and he said that would be enough to go about 320rwkw or so....for something like 260-280 he recommended a AT28G2 or something similar to a GT2871R for response and good hard hitting power

Pretty sure the XR6t rears are a 1.06 housing, being a 4ltr motor. I'd be dropping it to a .83 or .6, depending on how you want response to be

Response even from a 0.83 will be laggy as f**k considering the stock ones are 0.48 or something

dont quote me on those figures Dave.....thats what i have just been told so.....not my own findings and i have f**k all clue when it comes to turbos but others that know there shit will know the figures around it.....

Yeah Simon @ Morpowa said it would be pretty crazy, but with the smaller .6 rear response wont be too bad! Wish i had of grabbed the one in the for sale thread. Pump and injectors for me first i think.

Hmmmm and they're on my shopping list too Dale!

On a brighter note, got some cf eyebrows off ebay. Picked them up and both are cracked! Seller is sending 2 more out tomorrow and i get to keep the fecked ones! :)

Edited by Jamesrb25
youre gonna have fun with that turbo on a 2.5...

Woot, thats what i was aiming for.

Good luck with that turbo Abe, i've just been recommended a 3076 with .6 rear. Reckons it'll be good for 280rwkw!

Thanks, ill let you know how i go with this.

is that a 1.06 rear housing Abe?

No, its a .8X (its a 0.8 something)

and run an external gate*. that pissy little internal has trouble coping.

*with a big f**k off screamer pipe.

As much as i would like to, no. It going on my daily.

well, external gate is going to be a minimum. seriously. that tiny little internal gate has trouble properly handling the boost.

*correction, smaller turbine housing, might just get away with it.

Edited by scandyflick
Yeah Simon @ Morpowa said it would be pretty crazy, but with the smaller .6 rear response wont be too bad! Wish i had of grabbed the one in the for sale thread. Pump and injectors for me first i think.

Hmmmm and they're on my shopping list too Dale!

On a brighter note, got some cf eyebrows off ebay. Picked them up and both are cracked! Seller is sending 2 more out tomorrow and i get to keep the fecked ones! :)

i got the same ones i reckon.. on didnt fit, and cracked, got new one, sent the wrong one, got new one, still didnt fit right.. cbf afterwards.

there shit!

Yeah, i just picked mine up, hoped on the for sale and saw the same turbo for $1800, i could have saved money....oh well.

The turbo i got is running a 12psi actuator, and according to my research - browsing here and looking at Lithium, Mafia, and Cube's posts, they recommend the 0.8 rear housing. They also said that there is boost control issues, but that only really happens with the non genuine Garrett housings. The rear housing on mine says Garrett, and has 0.8 stamped in the exhaust input :S

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That's a good point. The rears of the covers themselves have no baffling at all though. Higher up more chance of air for venting the crank case. Lower on the side more likely to be submerged. I might be able to fit them on the sides but with both the sump drain fittings being on the drivers side the passenger one will need to make a U Turn and be nearer the turbo. But it will look neat being not up on top.
    • It won't likely matter where along the cam covers you put the big fittings. I would suggest putting them on the sides if you can, simply because it will reduce the flow up through the baffles and thus reduce the amount of oil that gets put into the foam. It might not matter, but it seems like something to consider as a worthwhile thing to avoid.
    • Well, I have my IM240 results with a cammed LS1... My Nox was 0.11 and my CO g/km was 0.2. Euro4 is 0.08 and 0.1 respectively. I'm gonna say for a stock RB this is actually plausible, BUT in Australia they were complied pre-Euro2, so the limits were: Which as you can see, is way higher. I'd say a stock RB with a new OEM Cat could? actually pass Euro4 for NOX but you'd probably have to do a hell of a lot of testing to prove it, and getting a car emissions tested and carrying a certificate of emissions when/if you get pulled over may be cost prohibitive if it's even allowable to get your car tested and re-classified. You'd have to find out what the UK Govt is using as reference material. It may be non-negotiable.
    • I made a little more progress last night and added some E85 safe fuel tank baffle foam in behind the stock cam cover baffle plate.  It still feels really wrong shoving foam inside the engine but apparently its fine based on it pretty much being the MINES/Hi-Octane RB26 cam baffle kit and the few posts here I have found of people doing it and the lack of posts saying the foam broke down and ruined the motor... Still plan to check it frequently though lol The last step for this round of oil control modifications I plan to make is to add some -12AN fittings to the cam covers and connect them to some (already existing luckily) -12AN fittings on the sump. Basically a sudo head drain/sump breather/pressure equaliser without having to remove the motor and do the one on the rear of the head. My plan is to add them to either the tops or the sides of the cam covers at the back. unless there is a compelling reason to have them at the front on the sides which i have seen a few times though they were all on RB26 cam covers from memory so that may be due to the stock breathers being on the back and the integral baffle being different ?    
×
×
  • Create New...