Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

for face dials like that you just need to take the cluster out, which is a few screwes and then take the clear front cover off and take the needles off and bob's your uncle! well that's how i did mine anyway or you can always take the actual dials out from behind when the cluster is out

Edited by nos man
for face dials like that you just need to take the cluster out, which is a few screwes and then take the clear front cover off and take the needles off and bob's your uncle! well that's how i did mine anyway or you can always take the actual dials out from behind when the cluster is out

These have two wires for the accesories to light them up, and change the colours of the dials.

I got myself new boots today. :D

I'll be out wearing them tonight. I'll swing past Kellie's meet tonight with the Brutale.

SMXboots.jpg

Don't ask what they cost me :D You don't want to know ... but its far cheaper than ankle surgery!

;)

sorry Jarrad just got home i would think the original dial come off and these go on not 100% sure and im guessing they didnt come with any instructions

the kit i bought was a 300kph speedo for R33 and i had to take the original dials off

as for how to get the dials on you may need to take your needles off and these require a good hard pull too

sorry Jarrad just got home i would think the original dial come off and these go on not 100% sure and im guessing they didnt come with any instructions

the kit i bought was a 300kph speedo for R33 and i had to take the original dials off

as for how to get the dials on you may need to take your needles off and these require a good hard pull too

Thanks man. I might go see someone and get it done properly. Mine are just slip ons, the guy I bought them off said they were just over the top of his original ones.

mine were just put over the original ones!

Yeah I reckon I just need to take the needles out. But its just the wiring part I'm not to crash hot on. I'll ask a mechanic to do a cashie on it.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ahh got it. Well maybe install a drain for the catch can somewhere down low and accessible like a wheel well too....
    • Before you blow your car up, have you checked you've made all the correct modifications to the wiring if you're still using the RB20DE loom?   Some things to look at: The pin used for the map sensor on the RB25DET, is the same pin used on the RB20DE for the Ring Gear Crankshaft Position Sensor, no idea what you've got it plugged into now. The turbo pressure control valve solenoid you're talking about on the RB25DET, the same pin is used for the Variable Air Intake Control Valve on the RB20DE.   The factory manual has the wiring pinouts in it for you to check everything. It also has the diagnostics process to read codes out. In addition, there's a great table that shows what sensors and what actuators not functioning will relate to which signals. And Nissan confirm the as everyone else has from experience, the Solenoid being disconnected won't cause a fuel cut. However, the turbo pressure sensor being missing / wrong, WILL cause a fuel cut. https://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual?fsm=Skyline%2FR34-Workshop-Manual-English.pdf
    • I've been hunting info on the G Series II - this is best I have found so far(Link below). Still waiting on the G35-1150 comp map, kind of very keen   So how do we go about getting precision on that little table of yours ?   https://turbosbytm.com/sites/default/files/product/technical-info/Garrett-G-Series-II-Product_Flyer 25 30 35_1.pdf  
    • yeah I get ~0.6L per session into the catch can. very ethanoly. It ends up overflowing out the breather of the catch can on circuit days too even with a 2.3L capacity catch can and I only drain out ~0.6L max. So every session I have to come in and drain the catch can, which is a hassle. So this is me cracking the shits and doing everything I can without removing the motor (back of head sump drain/breather and oil restrictors off the table). plans short term are: full length splash plates remove oem cam cover baffle add foam and reinstall at -10 or -12 AN fittings to the side of the cam covers down to the sump (luckily I already have fittings in the sump) Yes the ~340,000km unopened motor is probably not helping things
    • I'd use any fuel safe foam....mine went in 15 years and 15 rebuilds ago, still getting reused I'd have to say I don't understand swapping to studs to fit a particular baffle unless you are having a massive blowby issue, and even if you are addressing crankcase not head breathing is probably the next step.
×
×
  • Create New...