Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Grab some carby clean. They almost always gum up and cause idling issues.

Does the valve AAC valve need removal for cleaning?

If its idling too high there's another valve that may be the cause. IAC valve. The spring can dislodge and cause a constant 1000-1500rpm high idle.

Can the spring be relocated or would I need a newbie......also can a good hammering up the hills cause a dislodgement because its been like that ever since I went for a run with my mates Porsche & Maserati (gave it a bit of a hammering that day :blink: )

Yeah mine idles way too high. I'm guessing the AAC valve is the accessible the one near the fuel filter which can be cleaned whereas the IAC is probably the "cold air by-pass solenoid" which is against the sandwich plate under the centre throttle body which requires a plenum removal and which can't be cleaned (approx $220 new).

Also Cubes, have you got the full specs on your Tighe cams ie. IN & EX opening & closing times etc......I might look into them myself.

Can the spring be relocated or would I need a newbie......also can a good hammering up the hills cause a dislodgement because its been like that ever since I went for a run with my mates Porsche & Maserati (gave it a bit of a hammering that day tongue.gif )

I do have the cam sheet. All though your requirements will differ as you are blessed with solid followers.

Tighe did reduce the base circle some what however it doesn't appear to have created any problems.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&id=173055

Unsure if a hammering can cause it to dislodge.. Possibly.

Grab a can of start ya bastard and check for vac leaks bfore you go to the trouble of pulling everything off.

If the spring flicks off you can hook it back on and secure it a little better.

The std gasket will most likely break so grab some ACL gasket paper (the hard yellow paper) as its the correct thickness.

how hard is it to un wire gtr injectors with resistor pack??

If you have used a 280zx/R30 style resistor pack its as simple as heading down to the local auto store picking up a Navara 8pin? from memory plug and connecting each pin to each other (bridge) via wires. Then remove the resistor pack and plug in the bridged plug.

Hey guys just a quick question, i have a massive coolant leak at the back of my engine im pretty sure its just the heater hose leaking, any ideas how hard this is to replace??? or any idea's what the leak could be from its right at the back of the enging just infront of the fire wall.

hmmm I seem to be having absolute shit luck this year. Swapped the Chaser for a stupidly worked JZX81 track car and a Cressida Grande. Over valued the cressy to the tune of like 3k, turns out the thing is fair f**ked. Lost my job so had to swap the 81 for the 32 I'm in now, didn't get anywhere near enough coin on top. Lost about 6 grand or so in those 2 transactions. Now the Cressy has blown a head gasket (even after being torqued to the proper specs - good old 7M :() and the 32 is missing 1x rear quarter.

Roll on 2009 :)

Anyone know how to untighten the screws on the front of the fuel rail? Or what i can put on there so its easier to get them out? In heaps tight and i need them out to replace the o rings. Start fixing some small problems before i start driving it again in 2 months.

hmmm I seem to be having absolute shit luck this year. Swapped the Chaser for a stupidly worked JZX81 track car and a Cressida Grande. Over valued the cressy to the tune of like 3k, turns out the thing is fair f**ked. Lost my job so had to swap the 81 for the 32 I'm in now, didn't get anywhere near enough coin on top. Lost about 6 grand or so in those 2 transactions. Now the Cressy has blown a head gasket (even after being torqued to the proper specs - good old 7M :( ) and the 32 is missing 1x rear quarter.

Roll on 2009 :)

Aren't Cressy's prone to warping head gaskets? My mates Cressy which had a 5M in it blew 2 head gaskets within 6 months :D

Yeah man cressys eat gaskets like they're goin out of fashion :) Its the head torque that is the problem. Mine has been re-torqued and still fked the gasket out (to it's credit, it did complete about 10kays worth of driving on the H with the bottom end rattling away before the head gasket went :))

I reckon I'm just gonna get a Falcon and stop spendin money modding cars for a while. The Falcon seems to be best suited to daily with occaisional towing duties, so I can still get the busted arse 32 out to the track to thrash, Crazy Max styles with munted rear quarter. At least if I hit the tyres on the entry to 1 it doesn't matter because that quarter is already f**ked :laughing-smiley-014:

what suspension matty?

kyb shocks, aurora springs.....7kg front, 5kg rear, standard size (but slotted) aus del front and rear brakes too................nothing special in pads, and they didnt fade or cook

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have a 6 boost manifold and it has loads of bends etc. turbo has a cover however manifold doesn’t so I started to wrap what I could without taking turbo off. Very restricted area   are you stating wrapping could lead to cracking weld? Is that because heat is retained?    i have a exhaust gas temp right after turbo and it hits 700degree or 800 at times.   there are areas which is impossible to reach with fibre glass cloth. Is there anything I could apply such as the photo shared earlier which would formulate around exhaust pipe in difficult to reach areas, sort of like aluminium foil flexible to shape it in place?   i think from earlier reply you mentioned acl? Is this what you meant?   https://www.nstparts.com/product/acl-heat-shield-700x275     photo of my engine bay   https://ibb.co/9grHsMN https://ibb.co/bXC8KRM https://ibb.co/KV3kGZc   I am trying to cover bottom of the exhaust manifold which joins the turbo. Only way is to take turbo and possible manifold out as it also touches the engine mount which I don’t fancy doing
    • So....I managed to fix the belt coming off problem, but unfortunately i destroyed my oil pump. While testing and hitting my rev limiter a bunch, my oil pump took a shit. I actually heard it break. In my great wisdom i decided to hit redline 5 times (original plan). Lowered it to 7500 for the soft limiter. Normally it would come off on the first go. The 6th time I hit the limiter the pump broke and as i began accelerating again and hit it the 7th time, oil pressure dropped and the protection kicked in. It actually made a "tink" as if i dropped something hollow.   The motor is pulled and should be rebuilt and put back in 3 weeks. No bearings were spun and i could have gotten away with simply replacing the pump, but since i had to pull the motor....might as well build it   I made a billet tensioner and the belt stayed on without getting frayed. I also made one for a friends R33, but I was thinking of using a hydraulic unit to keep constant pressure on it when the belt stretches.
    • Yeah 98 for me, and 6.7/100 was my actual usage. On the downside the bloody thing still isn't running properly but at least they hybrid system is happy now. It starts but missfires like a bastard, and isn't throwing any code except "missfire". Thanks scoop. I did notice the AFMs are reading quite different at idle 1.33v and 1.67v so 25% variance (and have both changed and swapped them, the issue stays on the driver's side afm) so I'm looking for exhaust restriction (mouse nest?), compression issue or (hopefully not, no physical damage seen) wiring issue. Throttle might also be an issue but that is harder because you can't swap them side to side and not cheap to fire the parts cannon at.
    • I hope you're right and it somehow justifies it's existence!
×
×
  • Create New...