Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Grab some carby clean. They almost always gum up and cause idling issues.

Does the valve AAC valve need removal for cleaning?

If its idling too high there's another valve that may be the cause. IAC valve. The spring can dislodge and cause a constant 1000-1500rpm high idle.

Can the spring be relocated or would I need a newbie......also can a good hammering up the hills cause a dislodgement because its been like that ever since I went for a run with my mates Porsche & Maserati (gave it a bit of a hammering that day :blink: )

Yeah mine idles way too high. I'm guessing the AAC valve is the accessible the one near the fuel filter which can be cleaned whereas the IAC is probably the "cold air by-pass solenoid" which is against the sandwich plate under the centre throttle body which requires a plenum removal and which can't be cleaned (approx $220 new).

Also Cubes, have you got the full specs on your Tighe cams ie. IN & EX opening & closing times etc......I might look into them myself.

Can the spring be relocated or would I need a newbie......also can a good hammering up the hills cause a dislodgement because its been like that ever since I went for a run with my mates Porsche & Maserati (gave it a bit of a hammering that day tongue.gif )

I do have the cam sheet. All though your requirements will differ as you are blessed with solid followers.

Tighe did reduce the base circle some what however it doesn't appear to have created any problems.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&id=173055

Unsure if a hammering can cause it to dislodge.. Possibly.

Grab a can of start ya bastard and check for vac leaks bfore you go to the trouble of pulling everything off.

If the spring flicks off you can hook it back on and secure it a little better.

The std gasket will most likely break so grab some ACL gasket paper (the hard yellow paper) as its the correct thickness.

how hard is it to un wire gtr injectors with resistor pack??

If you have used a 280zx/R30 style resistor pack its as simple as heading down to the local auto store picking up a Navara 8pin? from memory plug and connecting each pin to each other (bridge) via wires. Then remove the resistor pack and plug in the bridged plug.

Hey guys just a quick question, i have a massive coolant leak at the back of my engine im pretty sure its just the heater hose leaking, any ideas how hard this is to replace??? or any idea's what the leak could be from its right at the back of the enging just infront of the fire wall.

hmmm I seem to be having absolute shit luck this year. Swapped the Chaser for a stupidly worked JZX81 track car and a Cressida Grande. Over valued the cressy to the tune of like 3k, turns out the thing is fair f**ked. Lost my job so had to swap the 81 for the 32 I'm in now, didn't get anywhere near enough coin on top. Lost about 6 grand or so in those 2 transactions. Now the Cressy has blown a head gasket (even after being torqued to the proper specs - good old 7M :() and the 32 is missing 1x rear quarter.

Roll on 2009 :)

Anyone know how to untighten the screws on the front of the fuel rail? Or what i can put on there so its easier to get them out? In heaps tight and i need them out to replace the o rings. Start fixing some small problems before i start driving it again in 2 months.

hmmm I seem to be having absolute shit luck this year. Swapped the Chaser for a stupidly worked JZX81 track car and a Cressida Grande. Over valued the cressy to the tune of like 3k, turns out the thing is fair f**ked. Lost my job so had to swap the 81 for the 32 I'm in now, didn't get anywhere near enough coin on top. Lost about 6 grand or so in those 2 transactions. Now the Cressy has blown a head gasket (even after being torqued to the proper specs - good old 7M :( ) and the 32 is missing 1x rear quarter.

Roll on 2009 :)

Aren't Cressy's prone to warping head gaskets? My mates Cressy which had a 5M in it blew 2 head gaskets within 6 months :D

Yeah man cressys eat gaskets like they're goin out of fashion :) Its the head torque that is the problem. Mine has been re-torqued and still fked the gasket out (to it's credit, it did complete about 10kays worth of driving on the H with the bottom end rattling away before the head gasket went :))

I reckon I'm just gonna get a Falcon and stop spendin money modding cars for a while. The Falcon seems to be best suited to daily with occaisional towing duties, so I can still get the busted arse 32 out to the track to thrash, Crazy Max styles with munted rear quarter. At least if I hit the tyres on the entry to 1 it doesn't matter because that quarter is already f**ked :laughing-smiley-014:

what suspension matty?

kyb shocks, aurora springs.....7kg front, 5kg rear, standard size (but slotted) aus del front and rear brakes too................nothing special in pads, and they didnt fade or cook

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • One other thing worth mentioning when I did this job I only jacked up the driver side as I was only doing work there, but from what I understand both wheels should be in the air when removing the sway bar links?
    • Yep it's an r34. Usually people remove struts without removing the front upper control arm (fuca is what i assume this is?) So not sure why mine wouldn't fit. I know on my other car I did a similar job and it wouldn't fit until I removes the ball joint nut even though I didn't remove it prior.   The upper arm doesn't seem to be in the way (the part that's bolted to the chassis. The part that's bolted onto the j arm I'll check that out though.   I was going to compress the spring and put it in with the compressor attached but not sure if it will work  Haven't seen anyone do it.
    • I have a small lip on the boot of the E90 and I've been toying with the idea of trying to mould it in to the boot to remove the gaps. I guess shaving the seams? No idea what the terminology is here.  What I'm wondering is, if it's current double sided taped down, what would I do to more permanently attach it so it makes a good base for the filler? It only has edges so no way to bolt it down unless I add some braces. I've done a lot of fibre glassing in my time so that's nice and easy but I'm not sure what my options are here.  Sorry, this is the best pic I have and I'm 4 million ks from home ATM.  
    • Based on this comment I went googling. A052's in the sizes I want are certainly not cheap, but I couldn't find anything in the V70A anywhere. How much do they run/where do they get sourced from? From what I know (nothing but internet searches and reviews etc) the R888 has pretty much fallen off from anyone's actual use, and the AO52 is the king of "road legal" rubber. Nobody is driving around on their daily for Z221, AO050, DZ03G. At that point, for purely track only tyres - Why not buy actual slicks? Why does nobody actually do that anyway?
    • This an R34? It shouldn't matter though - it should be the same as on any of the others, and by "any of the others" I mean R32, because that is the car that I have had the front end apart on about 50 times this year. Sometimes, it is much easier to get the lower shock eye onto that pin when: a) you have the upper shock nuts backed off a few turns so you can wiggle it a bit more freely. When they are tight the bottom of the strut is much harder to move that _leeeetle_ bit you might need it to to win the fight. b) you have the outer bolt(s) from the FUCA out and so you can move the lower pin around freely too. Then, all you have to do is put the upper arm back on when you've got the rest back together, and this is where jacking under the balljoint can help.
×
×
  • Create New...