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I reckon I'm just gonna get a Falcon and stop spendin money modding cars for a while. The Falcon seems to be best suited to daily with occaisional towing duties, so I can still get the busted arse 32 out to the track to thrash, Crazy Max styles with munted rear quarter. At least if I hit the tyres on the entry to 1 it doesn't matter because that quarter is already f**ked :laughing-smiley-014:

hehe.. depends on what falcon.. the older ones are plagued with crank end float issues and head stud problems. :(

Falcons definitely a better pick than the commodores especially for towing. :wub:

See if you can pick up an old EF/EL 4ltr 5speed then umm strap a turbo on to it. 1550kg kerb weight vs the BA's 1700-1800kg. = power to weight FTW :D

Anyone know how to untighten the screws on the front of the fuel rail? Or what i can put on there so its easier to get them out? In heaps tight and i need them out to replace the o rings. Start fixing some small problems before i start driving it again in 2 months.

I used one of those cheap $5 1/4" drive ratchet kits from supercheap that come with philips head bits. You can get heaps of weight on to it + leverage so they crack easily.

just sheared the rear suspension stud which comes out of the shock whilst putting new lock nuts on (stock ones). Just had all the suspension out, but looks like it will all have to come back out again. What a prick!

Anyone got any spares at all or know a good trick?

Edited by R32Abuser
Hey guys just a quick question, i have a massive coolant leak at the back of my engine im pretty sure its just the heater hose leaking, any ideas how hard this is to replace??? or any idea's what the leak could be from its right at the back of the enging just infront of the fire wall.

I split a coolant line from the turbo earlier this year (sounds similar)

It was a prick of a thing to change, but can be done with rocker covers and plenum off.

If that one has split the other hoses will probably be due a change as well. You can get silicone GTR hoses at a good price, but GTSt hose sets are OEM only.

hehe.. depends on what falcon.. the older ones are plagued with crank end float issues and head stud problems. :wub:

Falcons definitely a better pick than the commodores especially for towing. :no:

See if you can pick up an old EF/EL 4ltr 5speed then umm strap a turbo on to it. 1550kg kerb weight vs the BA's 1700-1800kg. = power to weight FTW :mad:

LOL nah I'm not modding the 'coon, it is my experiment to see how long I can last keeping a car stock (best so far was 2 months :()

I'm gonna have about 4-5k so I'm just gonna look for a nice clean EF/EL (maybe a Fairmont if one pops up for the right price), and try and find one that has had some reconditioning done so it doesn't f**k out on me. I'll just be using it for a daily and occaision tow out to lala with a hired trailer.

That'd make it 6 cars this year :D

Edited by AndrewJZX100
LOL nah I'm not modding the 'coon, it is my experiment to see how long I can last keeping a car stock (best so far was 2 months :()

lol a little like myself... I picked up free old mazda 626.. started to sit and draw thinking about how to strap a turbo on to it.

Now have a VN dunnydoor.. doing the same thing lol VN's a really are buckets. Good thing it has been passed down.

I do have the cam sheet. All though your requirements will differ as you are blessed with solid followers.

Tighe did reduce the base circle some what however it doesn't appear to have created any problems.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&id=173055

had a quick look at the specs Cubes........ 20-65-65-20 with .350" (8.9mm) valve lift seems relatively mild.....however this equates to approx 50 deg of overlap and 265 (20+65+180) duration which I think is actually abit more than stock cams (I don't know what standard cam specs are).

As a standard rule of thumb, if you increase duration, you generally increase overlap (definitely in single cam engines)......the advantage over having 2 cams is that you can retard the exhaust and give more separation between IN & Ex centres, giving you less overlap and widening your power band.

If you've played with the gears it may explain why you have some good useable power.

Unsure if a hammering can cause it to dislodge.. Possibly.

Grab a can of start ya bastard and check for vac leaks before you go to the trouble of pulling everything off.

Hmmm........there is a test apparently to confirm whether the solenoid is stuffed.......just have to work out what it is

If the spring flicks off you can hook it back on and secure it a little better.

The std gasket will most likely break so grab some ACL gasket paper (the hard yellow paper) as its the correct thickness.

Are you referring to the intake & throttle body gaskets?.......most peeps seem to be going metal these days, got any contacts for a good price on metal gaskets?

Hey Sled, check out this neat example! 1 owner, with service history!!

http://www.j-spec.com.au/list/index.php?ID=13188

edit: drool. http://www.j-spec.com.au/list/index.php?ID=13155 and cheap!

Edited by Damo_R34

sled the kids sizs r the 8,10,12 etc... and im not sure who else sells jb??

ill sus it out and get back to u 2morrow?

I NEED A LHS r32 4door front quater, rear quater, front passeneger and back passeneger doors! ASAP.. mate got tboned!

cheers

had a quick look at the specs Cubes........ 20-65-65-20 with .350" (8.9mm) valve lift seems relatively mild.....however this equates to approx 50 deg of overlap and 265 (20+65+180) duration which I think is actually abit more than stock cams (I don't know what standard cam specs are).

As a standard rule of thumb, if you increase duration, you generally increase overlap (definitely in single cam engines)......the advantage over having 2 cams is that you can retard the exhaust and give more separation between IN & Ex centres, giving you less overlap and widening your power band.

If you've played with the gears it may explain why you have some good useable power.

Hmmm........there is a test apparently to confirm whether the solenoid is stuffed.......just have to work out what it is

Are you referring to the intake & throttle body gaskets?.......most peeps seem to be going metal these days, got any contacts for a good price on metal gaskets?

I haven't actually played with the cam gears yet.. Left them as is as there's still a bit of work to be done with the 2" fmic piping etc.

Im still getting my head around cam specs etc..

My understanding is there's:

~39degree's overlap seat to seat and -4degree's overlap at 0.050"

R32 RB25DE cams:

~8degree's overlap seat to seat. No idea at 0.050". All though I believe 0.050" overlap you ignore?

R32 RB20DET cams:

~5degree's overlap seat to seat.

R33 RB26:

~7degree's overlap seat to seat

So it is running a fair whack of overlap. I was pretty way off. Cranking pressure now sits at 155psi vs 158psi with the std cams.

But whats wierd is this engine analyzer pro is stating there's 28degree's of overlap?! :S

The cams are unfortunately as big as you can go without seriously looking at valve springs, solid lifters and machining the buckets. The 26 head is a much better starting point for 350rwkw+.

What I have unexpectedly experienced is a very noticable improvement in economy. We didn't play with the ignition map its the std rb26 one. The afr's were set back to 15:1 and that was it.

Driving the car to work the last week and quite a bit of driving on the weekend its consistently floating between 10.5-11L/100km's. The last tank pulled 480km's out of 52litres.

You may be able to help me get my head around the following.

Retarding (or is it advancing?) the inlet cam does that numerically increase the Inlet LCA which widens the LSA and as a result decreases overlap.

And the exhaust.. retarding or advancing does that increase the LCA or decrease numerically? :S

Inlet LCA of 115, Exhaust LCA of 118 gives an LSA of 116.5 and 31degree's of overlap. Reduced overlap might help that restrictive gt30 .82 rear end up top.

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