Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

On the other hand the N1 oil pump costs an extra 3 arms & 4 legs, lol........and with the overhead oiling issues that RB's are renown for, why would you want to exacerbate the problem.

you'll only ever want an n1 oil pump for a race car. its not suitable for street at all, as it cavitates at low revs, unlike the stock oil pump. theyre both as good as each other, just theyre geared for different applications.... at least thats my limited understanding of them...

-D

yeah at the end of the day you don't really need either pump but for the same reason you're going for a better Belt (ie. few $$ more) you are better off with the N1 waterpump.

On the other hand the N1 oil pump costs an extra 3 arms & 4 legs, lol........and with the overhead oiling issues that RB's are renown for, why would you want to exacerbate the problem.

Maybe your mechanics are not very familiar with RB engines?

EDIT:

Gates or Nismo are in the same league.....both have kevlar in them. Also, waterpumps will give up the ghost under normal circumstances way before oil pumps.

spot on pete!

yeah at the end of the day you don't really need either pump but for the same reason you're going for a better Belt (ie. few $$ more) you are better off with the N1 waterpump.

On the other hand the N1 oil pump costs an extra 3 arms & 4 legs, lol........and with the overhead oiling issues that RB's are renown for, why would you want to exacerbate the problem.

Maybe your mechanics are not very familiar with RB engines?

EDIT:

Gates or Nismo are in the same league.....both have kevlar in them. Also, waterpumps will give up the ghost under normal circumstances way before oil pumps.

you'll only ever want an n1 oil pump for a race car. its not suitable for street at all, as it cavitates at low revs, unlike the stock oil pump. theyre both as good as each other, just theyre geared for different applications.... at least thats my limited understanding of them...

-D

spot on pete!

When i first got my GTR i wanted to "test" a lot of the workshops around the place to see what ones i'd look at taking my car to and to get a ruff gauge on prices. So i sent out an email that included this:

I would like to do a full 100,000km service to it including:

Timing belt, spark plugs, water pump, oil pump, oil, oil

filter, fuel filter, flush and replace coolant, all other

fluids (clutch, diff, gear box, power steering, HICAS,

ATESSA, etc), front engine seals, idle bearing, tensioner

bearing, tensioner pulley studs, thermostat, all other belts

and anything else you can suggest.

and off his own back Shaun from Boostworx recomends the N1 oil pump as well as Mark Patterson (some of you may know him). The reason being is that the R32s have the biggest oil issues and the N1 pump plus a slight mod to the sump when changing the pump is recomended especially for R32 GTRs. Lots of other workshops said either "bring it in and we'll have a look" or "noooo oil pump is impossible to change without $1000 labour and its a head f**k just leave it". So it looks like something i might need to investigate further after your reactions, but... Shaun from Boostworx own recomendation, it's hard to go past that! maybe i should have a better chat with him about it. So if anyone has information re these pumps, link me up pls =)

Interestingly enough, both said for the water pump that the stock unit is fine, its just water, not like its anything that critical like oil! (note, i'll still get the N1 pump from you SLED)

btw SLED, Shaun also recomends the Gates Racing timing belts =P

And finaly some info that people might find interesting: out of the 8 or 9 companies i sent the above service request to, boostworx was a) the fastest to respond b) the most detailed/itemised quote c) the cheapest e) the nearest match to my "demands" f) offered more advice than any other responce and most importantly g) DIDNT ASK ME TO COME IN!!! so i'm always going to take my car there for service etc. and if anyones looking for a mechanic they are my recomendation :P (but i think we all know that already)

When i first got my GTR i wanted to "test" a lot of the workshops around the place to see what ones i'd look at taking my car to and to get a ruff gauge on prices. So i sent out an email that included this:

I would like to do a full 100,000km service to it including:

Timing belt, spark plugs, water pump, oil pump, oil, oil

filter, fuel filter, flush and replace coolant, all other

fluids (clutch, diff, gear box, power steering, HICAS,

ATESSA, etc), front engine seals, idle bearing, tensioner

bearing, tensioner pulley studs, thermostat, all other belts

and anything else you can suggest.

and off his own back Shaun from Boostworx recomends the N1 oil pump as well as Mark Patterson (some of you may know him). The reason being is that the R32s have the biggest oil issues and the N1 pump plus a slight mod to the sump when changing the pump is recomended especially for R32 GTRs. Lots of other workshops said either "bring it in and we'll have a look" or "noooo oil pump is impossible to change without $1000 labour and its a head f**k just leave it". So it looks like something i might need to investigate further after your reactions, but... Shaun from Boostworx own recomendation, it's hard to go past that! maybe i should have a better chat with him about it. So if anyone has information re these pumps, link me up pls =)

Interestingly enough, both said for the water pump that the stock unit is fine, its just water, not like its anything that critical like oil! (note, i'll still get the N1 pump from you SLED)

btw SLED, Shaun also recomends the Gates Racing timing belts =P

And finaly some info that people might find interesting: out of the 8 or 9 companies i sent the above service request to, boostworx was a) the fastest to respond b) the most detailed/itemised quote c) the cheapest e) the nearest match to my "demands" f) offered more advice than any other responce and most importantly g) DIDNT ASK ME TO COME IN!!! so i'm always going to take my car there for service etc. and if anyones looking for a mechanic they are my recomendation :P (but i think we all know that already)

Fish,

Whats the modification to the sump they are refering to..If your going to upgrade oil pump you should do the crank collar as well if it's not done already!

I think the big thing with all RB oil "issues" is you need sump baffle them, put oil restrictor in the head and a good catch can system that drains back to the sump...

Getting ready for autosalon takes ages.

anyone know where i can get cheap carpet for flooring?

tell me about it :P car goes in for front bar fit and paint on saturday after the side skirts get fitted, ill be painting interior on sunday and hopefully squeezing time in somewhere to detail it

Getting ready for autosalon takes ages.

anyone know where i can get cheap carpet for flooring?

See if Clarke Rubber has the thin rubber flooring with the carpet material on top?

As a guess :P

+1 to Boostworx. Shaun also told me that it's very pricey to get the oil pump replaced (have to take off the cross-member, etc) so the labour costs would be around $600+ but the pump itself is like $600 but he also mentioned that it's worth the effort.

The last thing you want is low - 0 oil pressure! I might consider getting mine replaced, too. If anyone ends up doing a group buy for a N1 oil pump, put me down for that as well... otherwise in about a month or 2 I'll just get it replaced.

But the exhaust comes first

Fish,

Whats the modification to the sump they are refering to..If your going to upgrade oil pump you should do the crank collar as well if it's not done already!

I think the big thing with all RB oil "issues" is you need sump baffle them, put oil restrictor in the head and a good catch can system that drains back to the sump...

Hey Sinful, long time =P

i cant remember what was said exactally as it was over a year ago all this took place, but thanks for the tips, i'll make sure i add them to "the list" =D

Hey Sinful, long time =P

i cant remember what was said exactally as it was over a year ago all this took place, but thanks for the tips, i'll make sure i add them to "the list" =D

Yeah its been awhile!! I will be town next weekend..Coming Go Karting??

Check this thread out, it's a good read http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Fa...;hl=N1+oil+pump

Your standard oil pump is rated up to around 330kws and N1 up to around 370kws. I still run my standard pump (has funky jap internals) and it's in great nick and I wouldnt have a clue how longs its been on there for, so you might not need to replace until you have had it out, but doing the crank collar is a very good idea!

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You're making my point for me. 95 is not "premium". It is a "slightly higher octane" version of the basic 91 product. The premium product that they want people to buy (for all the venal corporate reasons of making more profit, and all the possibly specious reasons of it being a "better" fuel with nicer additive packages) is the 98 octane stuff. 95 is the classic middle child. No-one wants it. No-one cares about it. It is just there, occupying a space in the product hierarchy.
    • 98 and 95 have to meet the same national fuel standards beside the actual RON.  91 has lower standards (which are quite poor really), so 95 is certainly not 91 with some octane booster. It would be an easier argument to claim 98 is just 95 with some octane boosters. Also RON doesn't specify 'quality' in any sense, only the octane number.  Anything different retailers decide or not decide to add to their 95 or 98 is arbitrary and not defined by the RON figure.
    • Anyone know alternatives to powerplus tungsten? Can't find an alternative online. 
    • 95 is just a scam outright. 98 is the real "premium" with all the best detergents and other additive packages, and at least historically, used to be more dense also. 95 is just 91 bargain basement shit with a little extra octane rating. Of course, there's 91 and there's 91 also. I always (back in the 90s early 2000s) refused to put fuel in from supermarket related fuel chains on the basis that it was nasty half arsed shit imported from Indonesia. Nowadays, I suspect that there is little difference between the nasty half-arsed shit brought in by the "bargain" chains and the nasty half-arsed shit brought in by the big brands, given that most of it is coming from the same SEAsian refineries. Anyway - if there's still anything to that logic, then it would apply to 95 also. 98 is only made in decent refineries and, as I said, is usually the "premium" fuel, both in terms of octane rating and "use this because it's good for your engine because it's got the unicorn jizz in it!".
    • Yeah since those first 2 replies I actually went and put some 98 in it and tbf it's already doing much better than the 95 (which is weird and makes my inner tinfoil hat wearer think the 95 was a crap batch), getting 8ish around town. Again, wonder if it takes a while to stabilize if the fuel is changed a couple of times. I swear cars used to just either run "well" or "s**t* in my 20s, none of this fuel optimisation business haha 
×
×
  • Create New...