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Cubes

By Cubes,
in South Australia

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Ryanrb25
Ryanrb25

i went for a hills run last night in the 31 with the roads very slippery.....was much fun. Had to bed in the bottom end bearings so yea..took it for a strap.

DSTROY
DSTROY

Hey Ryan, do you know how to fit a set of drop spindles to the front of a hilux???

Madaz
Madaz

Dam straight Damo would rather do SAU them heroin gts4 are 4.1 because they share the same parts from the gtr i think r32 gtst is 4.3 because of the lack of torque from the rb20

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Dohmar Grand Master

Dohmar

Posted
Posted
On the other hand the N1 oil pump costs an extra 3 arms & 4 legs, lol........and with the overhead oiling issues that RB's are renown for, why would you want to exacerbate the problem.

you'll only ever want an n1 oil pump for a race car. its not suitable for street at all, as it cavitates at low revs, unlike the stock oil pump. theyre both as good as each other, just theyre geared for different applications.... at least thats my limited understanding of them...

-D

Ryanrb25 Grand Master

Ryanrb25

Posted
Posted
yeah at the end of the day you don't really need either pump but for the same reason you're going for a better Belt (ie. few $$ more) you are better off with the N1 waterpump.

On the other hand the N1 oil pump costs an extra 3 arms & 4 legs, lol........and with the overhead oiling issues that RB's are renown for, why would you want to exacerbate the problem.

Maybe your mechanics are not very familiar with RB engines?

EDIT:

Gates or Nismo are in the same league.....both have kevlar in them. Also, waterpumps will give up the ghost under normal circumstances way before oil pumps.

spot on pete!

Fishpaste~ Experienced

Fishpaste~

Posted
Posted
yeah at the end of the day you don't really need either pump but for the same reason you're going for a better Belt (ie. few $$ more) you are better off with the N1 waterpump.

On the other hand the N1 oil pump costs an extra 3 arms & 4 legs, lol........and with the overhead oiling issues that RB's are renown for, why would you want to exacerbate the problem.

Maybe your mechanics are not very familiar with RB engines?

EDIT:

Gates or Nismo are in the same league.....both have kevlar in them. Also, waterpumps will give up the ghost under normal circumstances way before oil pumps.

you'll only ever want an n1 oil pump for a race car. its not suitable for street at all, as it cavitates at low revs, unlike the stock oil pump. theyre both as good as each other, just theyre geared for different applications.... at least thats my limited understanding of them...

-D

spot on pete!

When i first got my GTR i wanted to "test" a lot of the workshops around the place to see what ones i'd look at taking my car to and to get a ruff gauge on prices. So i sent out an email that included this:

I would like to do a full 100,000km service to it including:

Timing belt, spark plugs, water pump, oil pump, oil, oil

filter, fuel filter, flush and replace coolant, all other

fluids (clutch, diff, gear box, power steering, HICAS,

ATESSA, etc), front engine seals, idle bearing, tensioner

bearing, tensioner pulley studs, thermostat, all other belts

and anything else you can suggest.

and off his own back Shaun from Boostworx recomends the N1 oil pump as well as Mark Patterson (some of you may know him). The reason being is that the R32s have the biggest oil issues and the N1 pump plus a slight mod to the sump when changing the pump is recomended especially for R32 GTRs. Lots of other workshops said either "bring it in and we'll have a look" or "noooo oil pump is impossible to change without $1000 labour and its a head f**k just leave it". So it looks like something i might need to investigate further after your reactions, but... Shaun from Boostworx own recomendation, it's hard to go past that! maybe i should have a better chat with him about it. So if anyone has information re these pumps, link me up pls =)

Interestingly enough, both said for the water pump that the stock unit is fine, its just water, not like its anything that critical like oil! (note, i'll still get the N1 pump from you SLED)

btw SLED, Shaun also recomends the Gates Racing timing belts =P

And finaly some info that people might find interesting: out of the 8 or 9 companies i sent the above service request to, boostworx was a) the fastest to respond b) the most detailed/itemised quote c) the cheapest e) the nearest match to my "demands" f) offered more advice than any other responce and most importantly g) DIDNT ASK ME TO COME IN!!! so i'm always going to take my car there for service etc. and if anyones looking for a mechanic they are my recomendation :P (but i think we all know that already)

Sinful Grand Master

Sinful

Posted
Posted
When i first got my GTR i wanted to "test" a lot of the workshops around the place to see what ones i'd look at taking my car to and to get a ruff gauge on prices. So i sent out an email that included this:

I would like to do a full 100,000km service to it including:

Timing belt, spark plugs, water pump, oil pump, oil, oil

filter, fuel filter, flush and replace coolant, all other

fluids (clutch, diff, gear box, power steering, HICAS,

ATESSA, etc), front engine seals, idle bearing, tensioner

bearing, tensioner pulley studs, thermostat, all other belts

and anything else you can suggest.

and off his own back Shaun from Boostworx recomends the N1 oil pump as well as Mark Patterson (some of you may know him). The reason being is that the R32s have the biggest oil issues and the N1 pump plus a slight mod to the sump when changing the pump is recomended especially for R32 GTRs. Lots of other workshops said either "bring it in and we'll have a look" or "noooo oil pump is impossible to change without $1000 labour and its a head f**k just leave it". So it looks like something i might need to investigate further after your reactions, but... Shaun from Boostworx own recomendation, it's hard to go past that! maybe i should have a better chat with him about it. So if anyone has information re these pumps, link me up pls =)

Interestingly enough, both said for the water pump that the stock unit is fine, its just water, not like its anything that critical like oil! (note, i'll still get the N1 pump from you SLED)

btw SLED, Shaun also recomends the Gates Racing timing belts =P

And finaly some info that people might find interesting: out of the 8 or 9 companies i sent the above service request to, boostworx was a) the fastest to respond b) the most detailed/itemised quote c) the cheapest e) the nearest match to my "demands" f) offered more advice than any other responce and most importantly g) DIDNT ASK ME TO COME IN!!! so i'm always going to take my car there for service etc. and if anyones looking for a mechanic they are my recomendation :P (but i think we all know that already)

Fish,

Whats the modification to the sump they are refering to..If your going to upgrade oil pump you should do the crank collar as well if it's not done already!

I think the big thing with all RB oil "issues" is you need sump baffle them, put oil restrictor in the head and a good catch can system that drains back to the sump...

Damo_R34 Grand Master

Damo_R34

Posted
Posted
Getting ready for autosalon takes ages.

anyone know where i can get cheap carpet for flooring?

tell me about it :P car goes in for front bar fit and paint on saturday after the side skirts get fitted, ill be painting interior on sunday and hopefully squeezing time in somewhere to detail it

RubyRS4 Grand Master

RubyRS4

Posted
Posted
Getting ready for autosalon takes ages.

anyone know where i can get cheap carpet for flooring?

See if Clarke Rubber has the thin rubber flooring with the carpet material on top?

As a guess :P

CRoNic... Grand Master

CRoNic...

Posted
Posted

+1 to Boostworx. Shaun also told me that it's very pricey to get the oil pump replaced (have to take off the cross-member, etc) so the labour costs would be around $600+ but the pump itself is like $600 but he also mentioned that it's worth the effort.

The last thing you want is low - 0 oil pressure! I might consider getting mine replaced, too. If anyone ends up doing a group buy for a N1 oil pump, put me down for that as well... otherwise in about a month or 2 I'll just get it replaced.

But the exhaust comes first

Fishpaste~ Experienced

Fishpaste~

Posted
Posted
Fish,

Whats the modification to the sump they are refering to..If your going to upgrade oil pump you should do the crank collar as well if it's not done already!

I think the big thing with all RB oil "issues" is you need sump baffle them, put oil restrictor in the head and a good catch can system that drains back to the sump...

Hey Sinful, long time =P

i cant remember what was said exactally as it was over a year ago all this took place, but thanks for the tips, i'll make sure i add them to "the list" =D

Sinful Grand Master

Sinful

Posted
Posted
Hey Sinful, long time =P

i cant remember what was said exactally as it was over a year ago all this took place, but thanks for the tips, i'll make sure i add them to "the list" =D

Yeah its been awhile!! I will be town next weekend..Coming Go Karting??

Check this thread out, it's a good read http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Fa...;hl=N1+oil+pump

Your standard oil pump is rated up to around 330kws and N1 up to around 370kws. I still run my standard pump (has funky jap internals) and it's in great nick and I wouldnt have a clue how longs its been on there for, so you might not need to replace until you have had it out, but doing the crank collar is a very good idea!

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