Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So. I went to work today, 5-9pm.

And went to leave work and my f**king car wouldn't start :(

Its the second time that its done it now, first time was before school and the RAA bloke said that my battery wasn't charging very well and to replace it.

Half smart idea but then i thought if the battery is having trouble being charged in the first place, then maybe its the alternator??? So that was last week.

Car had been fine since then, i thought when i was sick and didn't use it for 2 days that it wouldn't start, but no it started up fine.

But this morning when i started it, it clicked once before the engine turned over. And then obviously tonight it didn't even turn over :)

And driving home was a bitch because my headlights and interior lights were all dimmed to hell, my stereo kept turning off and on every 10 seconds so took the face off and my indicator was lagging...

So whats the go. Anyone know how to check if an alternator is f**cked??? LOL

My battery is still under warranty because i only bought it last year :P SO thinking maybe replace that, but if its the alternator its just gonna ruin the new battery anyway.

Thoughts would be good. Cheers lol

Take it to an auto-elec, they should be able to point out the problem in a few minutes. New alternator on a Laser shouldn't be too hard to replace, did it on my missus' old Laser, boy what a pile of shit that was!

Driving along the other day and my car (R34 NA) goes pop, slight shutter and the engine light comes on.. been on and off again for bout 4 days now..

My SAU research indicates fried coil pack.. common problem!

My question is what is a rough price im looking at paying for splitfires or OEM, and what is the alternative as I need to sell my car so dont really want to put that much money into it? Or its just one of those things that has to be done..

i did note that an ebay seller has them for $350 but no indication of brand or specs.

Ill visit a jap wrecker this weekend and see what they can do it for..

So. I went to work today, 5-9pm.

And went to leave work and my f**king car wouldn't start :)

Its the second time that its done it now, first time was before school and the RAA bloke said that my battery wasn't charging very well and to replace it.

Half smart idea but then i thought if the battery is having trouble being charged in the first place, then maybe its the alternator??? So that was last week.

Car had been fine since then, i thought when i was sick and didn't use it for 2 days that it wouldn't start, but no it started up fine.

But this morning when i started it, it clicked once before the engine turned over. And then obviously tonight it didn't even turn over :(

And driving home was a bitch because my headlights and interior lights were all dimmed to hell, my stereo kept turning off and on every 10 seconds so took the face off and my indicator was lagging...

So whats the go. Anyone know how to check if an alternator is f**cked??? LOL

My battery is still under warranty because i only bought it last year :( SO thinking maybe replace that, but if its the alternator its just gonna ruin the new battery anyway.

Thoughts would be good. Cheers lol

could almost guarantee its your alternator:( take it to an auto elec and see what they think. if they think it is see, how much they can supply a new/recond one for and price to fir it, if you think its a bit steep, give me a yel and ill come fit it for ya for cheaper... im a mechanic BTW

cheers and good luck

Isaac

sweet! thanks man, feels good to actually stop when i want to!

my mate that broke the brake line quizzed me to make sure you did it all properly, like he has a f**king clue anyway

by talking about breaking a brakeline do you mean the short 90 degree bent pipe from the caliper to the strut??? i broke one of mine the other day when replaceing my pad and machining rotors :) , ryan told me its a common prob, lucky SA brake and clutch were near by to make me up a new one in a jiffy :(

could almost guarantee its your alternator:( take it to an auto elec and see what they think. if they think it is see, how much they can supply a new/recond one for and price to fir it, if you think its a bit steep, give me a yel and ill come fit it for ya for cheaper... im a mechanic BTW

cheers and good luck

Isaac

Ha cheers for that mate. Alright well after school today im taking my car down to the place where i got the battery from in the first place, hopefully getting that replaced because it's still under warranty, and then i'll have to do something about the alternator.

Jeez. This car is gonna make me broke :(

sorry there $399

jjrcoilsrbeng-02.jpg<< Click

Are they any good?

Yeah coilpacks in R34's is a very common problem, everyone i talk to has left their coilpack cover off so they don't overheat. I have stock ones in ATM, and a splitfire box with stock ones in as well, spewing, i thought when u bought it that it had splitfires.

Ha cheers for that mate. Alright well after school today im taking my car down to the place where i got the battery from in the first place, hopefully getting that replaced because it's still under warranty, and then i'll have to do something about the alternator.

Jeez. This car is gonna make me broke :)

Def the alternator brushes are on their way out. Its not providing enough charge to recharge the battery and run the lights in your car at the same time (yes, your battery could also be suffering). You shouldn't need to replace the entire alternator, just the brushes only (which is that little black box part at the back of the alternator, which your loom plugs into.

No idea on price, but alot cheaper than another alternator.

:(

Ha cheers for that mate. Alright well after school today im taking my car down to the place where i got the battery from in the first place, hopefully getting that replaced because it's still under warranty, and then i'll have to do something about the alternator.

Jeez. This car is gonna make me broke :(

Definately sounds like lack of skyline, you should get that looked at.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah I suspect even if you hold airmass per cycle/cylinder constant if you get too far away from stock you're still going to have problems running the factory tune within the bounds of the factory load scale. Cams, different displacement/rod ratio, etc. I'm just lucky that the GTIII-SS with wastegate boost + CA compliance cats is pretty much equivalent to stock turbos. When I have actual space I can finally get it tuned and modify the fuel system for flex fuel to 100% handle any detonation concerns when cranking the boost to whatever those dinky turbos can put out.
    • I would say no, why, because my daughter, who also lives in Goulburn, hasn't recommended us going there Pity, as we miss all the German joints around in Sydney, actually, the restaurants are the only thing I really miss about Sydney, and a special mention to Ishibanboshi at Bondi Junction, their Kara-age Don is heart cloggingly deliciousness (always added a special boiled egg...or 2) 😋 
    • Does that German restaurant still exist in the old place out the NW end of Goulburn? When I say "out the NW end of"...I am really being vague. It was 1997 when I was last there, and the only point of reference I can recall is that it was on the opposite side of the main drag from the big merino. And when I say "opposite side of the main drag", I don't mean "on the main drag". It was either a couple of streets back from there, or might have even been out in the sticks a bit further. Was an old farm building or mill or somesuch. And when I say "the big merino" I might actually be thinking of a completely different part of town, because I just looked on maps and the big bugger is not where I remembered him to be! The food was good, consisting largely of various German mystery-meat sausage/loaf things and kartofflen.
    • So while the second sentence is completely correct and the whole point of the conversation, the first sentence bears consideration. If this bloke is just hoping to throw big turbos on and drive it around, because there are no helpful facilities at all in his tropical paradise** then he likely has zero chance of even knowing what the TP is on the last column in the stock maps, let alone know whether the ECU is operating anywhere near it or past it. So the point is very very moot. And, per what I said before, at stock boost on those turbos, you may well be off the end of the map. **I'm just back from Vanuatu, so I know exactly what small Pacific nations can be like wrt paradise without requisite facilities. But it's not even that simple. I put a high flow on my car and had to drive it around with a proper tune because of the lack of opportunity*** to put the bigger AFM and injectors into it to allow it to be tuned. I had to turn the boost down to less than I had before, and back off the boost controller's ramp, because it was exploring parts of the map that it didn't drive in before, and really couldn't access for tuning on the dyno either, and so was pinging. It was still well within the last column, because when I first**** set up the Nistune on the Neo I rescaled all axes of the maps to give some more space to explore. ***Family dyno was broken ****This was 13 years ago, and the TIM thing wasn't a thing then and so TP would definitely grow when pushing past the stock tune's limits.
    • Yep, this bit another local owner. I caught it before putting the transmission back into the car, what I noticed was the pressure plate fingers weren't flat and even. It's more obvious with the pull style clutch because the throwout bearing ring was visibly not flat once everything is put together. Nismo should really update their instructions to call out this specific detail. I'm not even sure the clutch as-shipped orients everything properly.
×
×
  • Create New...