Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

lol ryan,do we wanna know how you know how to do that :wacko: lol

eddy, ryan pretty much knows everything about everything most times so more than likely he will be able to figure it out. Hopefully its something small.

there could be so many police out today coz it's the SANFL grand final today

coming home from town today a heap of cops flew down south road and by heaps... 5 bikes, 5 patrols, 2 detectives and a paddy wagon

anyone know what happened?

Nope, that being said, I've been at work so I haven't had a chance to try and fix it today.

Nothing. I have to use the key to get in because the central locking isn't going (The remote is fine), then when I turn the key in the ignition nothing happens. I've checked the battery and connections and that's fine and so are the fuses so either it's either the starter motor or the immobilizer screwing up.

Are you saying no electrics work?

An immobiliser may effect your central locking (but i wouldn't have thought so) but if you have no other electrics in the car I doubt its the immobiliser and certainly not the starter motor.

Can you get your alarm to activate? interior light or headlights to work? hazard warning lights? (an immobiliser shouldn't stop all of these from working and will indicate the problem is instead between the battery and the fuse box)

You said you checked out the battery - but it might be worth trying another one if you have one handy, or try a jump-start.

I would also be checking the battery terminals (you wouldn't be the first to have corrosion in the terminal cause a problem like this)

Not sure if the 32 has a fuse in the main battery line (some cars do) or a big spade fitting that has corroded (took me a while to find this problem on an old valiant once)

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The fuel pump bracket just slides straight up.  Below is a pic I stole off a site. But basically put hand in for fuel pump, wiggle it all about a bit while pulling up. 
    • Went digging Duncan, there's another "item" that sits down under the plenum that the second pipe from the IACV goes down to. I believe that's the one that is apart of the cold start portion, and it then comes back up under the middle of the factory top plenum. I believe you will find it is unneeded on the forward facing plenum on Cheryl.   I just went digging further for some pics on the location of the one way check valve, and found something that confirms my thoughts from the first half of this point. I feel you can just block off that port that is coming down.     I can also confirm, the other line that you were thinking for vacuum that will just need a one way valve put into Cheryl is 100% correct too. The one way valve is normally screwed into the back of the factory inlet plenum.
    • You’re an absolute legend man. Cheers.  
    • The rule of thumb for any GTR thats doing a single turbo conversion is..... seqy... and when i say seqy, i dont mean the pos PPG either. *flamesuit on*
    • The ECU does care - it runs the engine as two banks of 3 wrt O2 trimming. So you have to give it the right one. Um....look at the engine bay pictures in the GTR manual? I think you can make them out there. I think the physical wiring diagram might also help.... Actually, I just looked at the engine bay wiring diag. It clear shows the shapes of the connectors. I'd say that R means rear. According to the rest of that diagram, pin 2 of the R one turns up at terminal 55 of the ECU. Which is.....the rear one.
×
×
  • Create New...