Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

What thermos are you putting in Adrian? I bought a thumping 12" thermo off Ebay to put in my 34 and took the clutch fan out. Biggest mistake ever - cooling is much less effective than the stock clutch fan and shroud. I think it may be cos I didn't put a shroud in with the thermo - not sure. People/machanics have since pointed out to me that Nissan CHOSE to put in the clutch fan setup to suit the car - so it is best not to mess with it. If they though thermos would do a better job, then they would have used thermos when they built the cars.

I am looking for an R34 clutch fan to put back in my car and piss the thermo fan off. It is not performing, and it is so damn noisy compared with the clutch fan.

anyone know if is to take my clutch fan out and remove the pulley for it.. will that be ok?

as im gonna put thermos on!

Mate it doesn't matter how good your thermos are if you remove that pulley as the temp are guaranteed to sky rocket......

It's the water pump pulley. :P

I have just written a response to a similar question on NS... here it is. Oh and someone did a back to back test by removing the clutch fan and it netted 6 rwkw.

People think they're freeing up power by installing thermos but what they don't realize is the extra power draw puts more load on the alternator and the alternator puts more resistance on the turning of the engine so the gains would be extremely minimal if at all. You'll notice the engine revs drop when a thermo fan comes on. This is why.

As Donny has said above this isn't really the point.

Your clutch fan draws power 100% of the time and the more you rev your car the more power they draw, when really you only need it to draw power when the coolant temp rises.

When you are driving why do you need a fan to draw air over the radiator when air is moving over it because the car is moving. I have a single 14" thermo setup on my car and it only ever comes on when sitting at the lights for more than 3 minutes or when moving slowly under high load (i.e. up a hill behind a slow car.......bloody Sunday drivers :) ). This means that these are the only time that the thermos are drawing power from the engine. Even when the car is getting a flogging the temp doesn't move from 87 degrees, the more I flog it the faster i'm moving and the more air flow the radiator is getting.

I also have the thermo set up on a switch in the cabin as well as the thermo switch (two signals to the same pin on the relay), this way when i'm idling the car down i can have the thermo on and drop the coolant temps (not that they'll move much because the thermostat is only starts opening at 82 degrees).

Edited by D_Stirls
thats awsome! im yet to own a car with air con :)

i'll let you fix mine up too :P

Whats wrong with the 32's climate control? ever done diagnostics on it? I can have a look if u like, i think u live relatively close too...

-D

I ran 2 x 12" turbo's they sucked to put it politely. Fine in cooler weather as soon as it 'slightly' warmed up temps began heading north.

Either adapt a set of EL thermo fans or don't bother at all.

Geez!! 2 x 12" turbos - the lag must have been shocking, but I bet they did suck!

:P

What thermos are you putting in Adrian? I bought a thumping 12" thermo off Ebay to put in my 34 and took the clutch fan out. Biggest mistake ever - cooling is much less effective than the stock clutch fan and shroud. I think it may be cos I didn't put a shroud in with the thermo - not sure. People/machanics have since pointed out to me that Nissan CHOSE to put in the clutch fan setup to suit the car - so it is best not to mess with it. If they though thermos would do a better job, then they would have used thermos when they built the cars.

I am looking for an R34 clutch fan to put back in my car and piss the thermo fan off. It is not performing, and it is so damn noisy compared with the clutch fan.

I had major problems with my clutch fan flexing and slicing my radiatior open so I got rid of it and did the adjustable thermo fan and its fantastic. Car doesnt get hot, isnt loud and works a treat... but mine wasnt from ebay and had a shroud etc.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I suppose that's true. Barring almost any situation, I'll never sell so what the market does is kind of irrelevant to me. It's possible I'd make most of my money back. That spreadsheet I mentioned? Maybe I could make back more than what the car's total costs thus far are, but the parts and all that is possibly a different story... Thanks for reading. It was certainly a good moment and just makes the ties to the car that much stronger. It's exciting that the option will be there to bring it over, however I have some plans with a shop that may end up keeping the car there longer, not sure. Coupled with the fact I want to move there and haven't solidified any path yet. So in a way, it feels like I'm in a limbo state that is uncertain; time will tell.
    • No worries, everything worked out in the end. I just wanted to make the point that it doesn't matter where it comes from (I.E Australia), it can be broken or improperly built. I would still purchase from these companies in the future. B2R - Not certain how that finished, this was on a car I wired a few things and street tuned. I know the owner ended up shipping the motor back to Australia for investigation. Hopefully some of it is covered under warranty.  Turbosmart - I always pressure test everything that goes on my car. It's a habit from my career in oil and gas. I run two 40mm's and both had major leaks from the actuator to exhaust portion through the shaft. I returned both, they shipped me back two and one was leaking and the other had a 38mm top (40mm gate with 38mm actuator cap, no idea how that happens). Eventually after a lot of back and forth I found myself with two non-leaking gates. I believe this happens a lot more then people would like to believe but you would never know if you don't pressure test them prior to installation. Crank Motorsport - Issued a full refund and let me keep the seat rails. I turned them into scrap metal for other projects. GKTech - Shipped me out a replacement and asked that I modify it as per my idea and that they would do the same for a future revision. ATP - Can just needed a large shim to bolt up properly.  Haltech - They started an actual proper Beta channel for firmware's a few months back and stopped using the general public for testing. I'm now much happier.  Speedtek - f**k Speedtek. I would love to watch them burn.     
    • I've got a Turbosmart wastegate, ATP catch can, many GK Tech parts and Haltech everything. Everything's been perfect, sorry to hear your experience wasn't the same
    • The only high-power RB I've personally seen go pop after running for all of an hour on a dyno was built by B2R, while being remotely tuned by B2R. The only wastegates I've ever had leak like a sieve, return, still leak, return and get shipped back the wrong ones were from Turbosmart. The only final drive that I've ever purchased that were unusable, twice... were from Speedtek. The only seat mounts that I've ever purchased that placed the seats in the door frame were from Crank Motorsport. The only poorly designed parts that I had the manufacturer confirm should have been designed as per what I mentioned were from GKTech. The only ECU I've had firmware updates consistently break things are Haltech. The only catch can I've purchased that didn't fit in its advertised spot was from ATP. So forth and so on... Moral of the story, doesn't matter where it's from. Do your research beforehand and stick with products and companies you've trusted in the past.    @joshuaho96 If you want it done right, do it yourself.
    • Something coarse-ish. 180 is good.
×
×
  • Create New...