Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

mm turning 21 was good, my insurance premium has dropped by $600 for my next year :) but my agreed value has dropped $2k :)

it wouldn't be cause you turned 21 that your insurance dropped its because the agreed value has dropped

.7

you generally wouldnt need to go any lower

Damo - that logic test, 1 of the questions i didnt like was #5

Answer 5.

a) Where there is poverty there is crime.

b) There is crime in Camberwell.

- Therefore there must be poverty in Camberwell.

Invalid. There may be crime where there is poverty, but it does not necessarily follow that wherever crime is there is poverty. There is plenty of crime occurring in wealthier circles.

where there is poverty there is crime is a truth statement its not guessing

there is crime in camberwell is again a truth statement

so how can it be invalid where not discussing how wealthy camberwell is just stating there is crime there

sweet..can they go lower due splitfires?

Ideally want a higher gap not a lower. I higher gap gives a better ignition to the fuel but it also is weaker spark which makes it susceptible to being "blown out" by the intake charge.

Anyhow the accepted gap is 0.8mm if you have split fires then you should be able to run a bigger gap but it'll be trial and error to find out how big and I wouldn't go over 1>1.1mm anyway.

Edited by D_Stirls

hmmm.... ok i think there at .8 atm... thats wat they are from the box?

i can just feel the car hold back constantly then be ok the hold back due to missing...

ill open them up more... trial and error i guess..

what is the last number on the part number? If it had some thing like BKPR6ES-8 then it is 0.8 but if it was -11 or didn't have a number at the end then it's 1.1mm

If you are having spark problem then opening them up won't help you need to close them up, but if you have split fires then you shouldn't be having spark problems. you will know if they are breaking down because it'll sound like it not running on all cylinders where as you are saying it's feeling like it's being held back which isn't spark. It's probably got more to do with ignition timing.

Edited by D_Stirls
it wouldn't be cause you turned 21 that your insurance dropped its because the agreed value has dropped

Surely dropping my agreed value from 23,900 to 21,850 wont bring my insurance premium from 2098 p/a to 1500 p/a. if thats the case, ill set agreed value at 18k and pay no insurance.

Rhys, yep just car, got the info from my policy renewal letter, expires early Feb.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Reasonably hard, although I haven't run it with the new Endless setup yet. The old brakes were F50's on 335mm rotors and the car did a 1:40.6 at Phillip Island which is a reasonable time, I'm seeing high 600s on the temperature paint. A guy I know ran the Endless fluid at WTAC without issues and he was doing 1:33's I think (Evo) with a 355/332 setup. I don't get out to the track as much as I'd like but we put the car on the hoist and spanner check every bolt and re-paint mark everything, bleed the brakes, change the fuel, check the coolant system and re-bleed blah blah blah before every event. Motorsport is expensive, RB's are expensive so a couple of hours before an event is time well spent. It's also a net time saving because if you can keep your RB from self destructing it saves you time in the long term!
    • Welcome Alice......hope you have a bit more luck from here on! What was done in the build?  
    • Hello! I'm new here, I have an R33 GTST that is currently being finished up! Last year was pretty rough, blew two stock turbos so I decided to build the car. Has been down since November, but I get it back next weekend!
    • Hello, I believe my car was imported to America in the 2000s by Kaizo Industries. Would anyone be able to help me find more info on them? I've only found all the basic stuff like that paul walker bnr34, them being shutdown by feds, just stuff like that. Any help would be much appreciated, thanks!
    • I am using Motec M150.  I am not working on the car myself actually.  My workshop is giving all these info, they are quite reputable in the industry and are very familiar with Motec and RBs and have done a few big setups with VCam and single turbo on RBs.  In fact, they built and tuned my engine from day one.  But they are stumped with my engine at the moment and cannot work out how come the compression is so low with the VCam. They told me that they have now swapped in some Kelford cams (without the VCam) and can achieve around 130psi compression and the low end torque is better, but now the engine is doughy as.  It boosts and peaks at more than 1000rpm slower, with twin HKS GTIII RS, it doesn't get full boost until over 5000rpm. I have always thought the VCam was a bit disappointing at the low rpm. To a point I had to ride the clutch a fair bit to get up a small hill from stand still.  That was when I had a clutch.  Now changing to a 8HP, I don't have that luxury and this problem has become a major issue. I am beginning to think the VCam never work since the day it was installed.  Maybe it was just sitting at the most advanced point, that is why it went good at top end but very ordinary at the bottom.  Therefore, with the help of the Holinger 6 speed and paddle shift, as long as it was moving, it drove pretty good.
×
×
  • Create New...