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By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted
Have you adjusted the clutch pedal rod? You can wind it in to shorten it. Just can be a cnut to get to. -
By TurboTapin · Posted
Yes sir, that was me. Fake ARP's are also a thing over here in Canada and we only order from reputable dealers. It's sad that even simple things like bolts and hoses are now also being copied... anything to make a dollar. Story time. Like all cheap crap from China, it's even an issue with firearms. Roughly 15 years ago, I purchased a new cheap Norinco 12g shotgun. First time out in the bush with it, while firing, bolt assembly didn't lock and it fired out of battery. The receiver also being cheap steel, basically exploded in my face. I was lucky to be wearing eye protection. Long story short, don't buy Chinese junk. Also Norinco being state run and their only military arms producer, if ever they do try and take over a country, don't worry about it lol. -
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Installed Nismo coppermix twin competition spec last year in my bnr32 with pull trans with Oem slave cylinder. The point at where the clutch disengages/enages is right at the top of the clutch pedal, meaning I barely have to push the pedal down for the clutch to be disengaged. You guys that have the same combo are you experiencing this high pedal bite point?? Secondly I’d like to have the disengagement point lower meaning I have to push the pedal more(further not effort)for it to be disengaged. I’m thinking to use a Nismo big operating cylinder(bigger bore at 13/16 vs Oem 3/4) which will require more pedal stroke to get the equivalent movement at the clutch fork. But I see Nismo web site says not to mix these 2 as the Nismo big operating cylinder doesn’t have enough stroke to disengage??? Any folks run both the coppermix twin pull with Nismo cylinder?? Thanks in advance for the replies but prefer only guys with pull clutches to respond. thanks -
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