Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guyz i brought a 96 stock R33 S2 a while ago was running fine untill recently i got fitted a full exhaust turbo back, pod filter, and FMIC.

The problem is when i accelerate hard and then pull the foot on the clutch the revs drop way under normal and more often than not will stall. I got no idea what it could be there are no leaks in the piping for the cooler i checked the AAC valve which was fine, im not running a aftermarket cpu just the standard one.

Please let me know what u think it could be?

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/188545-car-stalls-after-booting-it/
Share on other sites

Standard BOV we even blocked it complete just in case it was leaking but still the same.

90% certain that is your problem right there...

If your car flutters, then you are going to have stalling issues with starving the engine of oxygen...

fulli sick flutters / stalling now and then

weigh it up... sup to you...

could be wrong though :happy:

HHhhmmmm interesting....

I'm in a very similar situation, recently bought my 96 SII GTS-T and the guy I bought it off said it stalls every now and then, I thought I could resolve it fairly easily (not so far) just after he put on a new MonstaA FMIC and some crappy yummcha copy GReddy RS type BOV.

I have also checked and replaced any suspect looking vacume hoses, I have the nipple on intercooler pipe, replumbed the 3-piece multi-tapped vacume pipe to Boost guage, cleaned AFM and ACC valve. Tried blocking the BOV off all-together aswell, so it's not that, though I'm leaning towards getting the dual Plumb-back/Venting type BOV just to be sure, though finding it hard to part with the $400 asking price just to see if it improves things.

All this stopped the "fullon stalling" for about 1 week, then it started again not as badly though, then after a while it stopped stalling and started hunting, which is slightly better than restarting the car at the lights, though I feel like a tool as it's revving up and down trying to find idle properly.

So this is where I'm at, I just picked up a SAFCII to see if I could see and log what was actually happening + they are good for improving fuel economy and sqeezing every last bit out of your engine configuration (once it's fully dyno tuned). But am having issues with getting the SAFCII to run at all with my car read my other posts....

I'm now asking anyone who may be able to lend me a copy of Datascan software, if so I will probably buy a consult cable and see if I can find it that way.

Hey not sure if you have read this thread all the way through, http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/t110431.html

I have only done the first part myself, cleaning the AAC valve and adjusting the idle screw via the AAC valve but I might try the electronic Idle control via the ECU aswell just to be sure, can't hurt.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi everyone, just looking to see what's available in the GTR seat options, testing the waters on what's available. Wanting a driver's seat to replace my old school OG jap race seat, going to re-register the car so need a factory seat. Prices currently seem to go from $300 to $2k for a driver's seat. What's options are there, that's good condition and actually a realistic price? Located Brisbane. Thanks
    • Are these a plug and play setup, and do they need a tune, like a haltech ecu etc? Thanks
    • Nice work on the paint. Those 3 studs are long as. 
    • Hi everyone, still chasing a bunch of this stuff. Thanks
    • Been over 2 months since I have done anything on the S15 and had a day off today so got stuck into mounting the radiator and intercooler. I ended up using factory bottom mounts as bolted in and I did order some gktech top brackets but didn't work with the PWR radiator so made up some with aluminium flat bar. Spent way to long on them but pretty happy how they are. Next job was the intercooler. Used some more aluminium flat bar and did the bottom mounts first. Top was easy as just one long piece and 2 90 degree coming off rad support and welded them on. The bumper support required some notching to let the outlets sit where I want so will add some reinforcement later to strengthen it. I have also bought ecu and waiting for it to arrive. Went with a Link g4x Xtreme but will be adding a ptmotorsport expander to add a few extra inputs over CAN. Went through a few different configurations on pclink to get what I want to allow future expansion for sensors and gearbox upgrades. Ordered gktech rear arms but looking at the hardrace lower control arms to have some extra adjustment too will see how the alignment looks after first setup. Got 2 more weeks of work before shut down and will have almost 4 weeks to work on this so planning on hopefully firing up mid January.   Also bought a 2015 brz with a heap of good gear, did noosa hill climb a month back. Owned it for 3 days changed alignment and sent it. Finished the weekend 2nd in class and only .3 off the 180sx best time last year. MCA Red coilovers, gktech rear lca, bolt on lock kit and tie rods, whiteline toe arms, cusco 1.5way diff and 4.5 ratio, endless brake pads, headers, exhaust, perrin intake and e85 tune. Electronic steering adjustment, nankang crs with koya wheels 17x9 +35. Have bought rear traction arm and relocation kit, extended studs and v3 tie rod kit. Planning on also getting flex tune as lucky to get 300km a tank with e85 and short ratio. Car is a heap of fun to drive and super easy to work on. AC in the line up at Noosa was mint in 35degree weather.
×
×
  • Create New...