Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thanks a lot for your responses :happy:

I have another question now.... When the time comes I will buy another R33, but the other day I was brousing the J-SPEC Imports website and came across some really nice cheapish r32 GTR's with around 60,000kms. Do you guys have any reasons why you would choose one over the other given the chance?? 32 is older but it's a GTR and I really like 33's so not sure.....

Cheers

haha i still have no idea what that sticker is, half the people i ask say its when you should and the other half say its when its done.

As for 32 gtr or 33 i'd say 33 just for the fact that despite the sheer sex of a 32 gtr, they are old cars. Get a 33 GTR, best of both worlds and then some :happy:

my sticker has the kms when the belt was changed written on it, not when it is going to need to be changed

the silver sticker is like a proper printed factory sticker with a line of Jap then underneath it has 100,000kms and more Jap...

are you saying yours has like 96,842kms or something like that instead? Or do you mean there's a different handwritten sticker there?

the sticker is simply there so to be written on when the car has had it's timing belt changed/100,000km service. I would not be buying a car that has no sticker on there as why would you remove it unless it has done >100,000km's/had it's timing belt already replaced...

Steve,

If you get a bad example of an R32 GTR it will cost you large amounts of money for repairs... GTR's are always going to be more expensive to modify, repair and maintain than GTST's as they have more to go wrong eg: 2 turbo's, 2 diffs, 4 axles, transfer case... etc.

GTST's arent as good as a race / drag car though for obvious reasons, also they are a lot more common than GTR's.

Bottom line... GTR is a better all round car, but its easy to get in way over your head money wise if you get a bad one.

GTST is cheaper, more common but still a great car for the price you pay.

Edited by Bullet32
GTST's arent as good as a race / drag car though for obvious reasons, also they are a lot more common than GTR's.

Of all the R32's I see getting around I reckon it's 90% GT-R versus 10% everything else R32.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...