Jump to content
SAU Community

Hiclone - ? - Another Myth To Grab Average Car People? Snake Oil?


Recommended Posts

I'm assuming this is just like all the other 'Gain power now, save fuel..'

http://www.fuelsaver.com.au/hiclone.php

Thoughts?

After looking through the web site, it all feels like rubbish, but......

From web site....

Turbo Engines

For Turbo vehicles we suggest installing Hiclones in two locations.

The first Hiclone is installed near the intake manifold; after the Turbo or intercooler; to improve combustion and economy.

The second part is installed near the air filter, before the Turbo. This part helps the Turbo Impellor to spin, reducing Turbo lag, bringing the boost in around 400-500rpm earlier.

It is also possible to install extra Hiclones in power or economy positions to further improve the vehicle. We have a lot of customers with up to 6 Hiclones installed on one vehicle.

Please note the line - AFTER THE Turbo ??!!!

Edited by Zebbie

I read an article a little while ago where they tested a bunch of these power enhancing/fuel saving type devices in a stock car on a dyno, and the best you could hope is that they did nothing, most of them restricted some power and one even set the test car on fire :)

surely you jest?!?! I mean look at the fking thing. and the diagrams... ooooh swirling air.... just get out a $100 note and set it on fire. you will get all of the benefits of a hi-con with the potential for engine damage.

i've bought a new RB20E long and i'm building it up to run quad hiclones... should run 9's all day

Edited by joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo

This is my favourite quote from their website:

The ECU will need time to re-learn (about a week) this is why dyno shops who test products by doing one run without, and one run with any product don't know how to use a dyno on an EFI car.

So basically they are saying everytime you do back to back dyno tests you are wrong, and thats why no one has proof their product actually works.

Utter BS

This is my favourite quote from their website:

The ECU will need time to re-learn (about a week) this is why dyno shops who test products by doing one run without, and one run with any product don't know how to use a dyno on an EFI car.

So basically they are saying everytime you do back to back dyno tests you are wrong, and thats why no one has proof their product actually works.

Utter BS

anything to make a dollah!

I read an article a little while ago where they tested a bunch of these power enhancing/fuel saving type devices in a stock car on a dyno, and the best you could hope is that they did nothing, most of them restricted some power and one even set the test car on fire :D

:w00t:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
×
×
  • Create New...