Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, I'm after some advice and opnion's for a good brake setup for my 89 R32 GT-R. The car is need of new pads and disc's on the front so I'm after some advice for my setup, all I'm pretty much after is a good street setup, though a little bit of overkill couldn't hurt. After doing a few search's and reading all the info (took hours) here's what i've come up with.

Some info about the car that might help.

Already has braided brake lines, HSD HR Coilovers, pineapples, 18x10 Work rims (265/35/18 rubber) 230kw @ all 4.. This is my daily driver at the moment, and the pads on the car are as dusty as hell leaving crap all over the wheels which is annoying. I'd like to minimize brake dust as much as possible.

Current brake setup;

Stock Calipers

Stock 296x32 rotors

Unknon pads

Unknown fulid

After taking in the info, here's what I've come up with;

Motul RBF600 fluid

DBA4000 replacement slotted rotors

(Retaining original Calipers)

Ferado DS2500 pads

Take the dust covers off the front

Ducting to the rotors

Does thing sound like a good setup? Opinions and advice would be great. Also, I've been looking into the caliper spacer that UAS sell so I can run a larger rotor, which to me sounds like a good idea bang for buck, I'm leaning towards getting the spacer kit with the larger DBA4000 slotted rotor, would this be worth doing? I've noticed a few people running the DBA5000 two piece rotor's with spacer kit, but I'm not planning to take the car to the track so it might be a waste for normal/street driving.

Cheers, mat.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/188794-advice-r32-gtr-brake-setup/
Share on other sites

if it's for street then forget the DS2500s. endless SSS will be good for your plan. very quiet and not too dusty.

Thanks for your reply, I didnt look into the endless pads. Any advice on the spacer setup vs standard? I understand ' Caz ' on here was doing the adapters for a good price.. anyone know if he's still doing those? (Yes i've PM'd him) :)

For street, the stockers are fine. You dont need RBF600 (Dot 5.1 is half the price and should last longer), or the UAS kit (i have it and its an inelegant solution, a bit too much hacking to get it on IMO). Consider rebuilding the calipers tho to make sure they're in top shape. The kit for the front cost me $85 from Racebrakes. Rear was $40.

Likewise you dont need to worry about removing the dust covers or ducting.

Adam, What hacking was required to get the UAS kit on? I trial fitted the 343mm one on mine and the only thing you had to remove was the stone guards. Be keen to know if anything else is required as I have the kit for sale and don't want to sell someone a piece of crap.

Edited by jonn
Hey guys, I'm after some advice and opnion's for a good brake setup for my 89 R32 GT-R. The car is need of new pads and disc's on the front so I'm after some advice for my setup, all I'm pretty much after is a good street setup, though a little bit of overkill couldn't hurt. After doing a few search's and reading all the info (took hours) here's what i've come up with.

Some info about the car that might help.

Already has braided brake lines, HSD HR Coilovers, pineapples, 18x10 Work rims (265/35/18 rubber) 230kw @ all 4.. This is my daily driver at the moment, and the pads on the car are as dusty as hell leaving crap all over the wheels which is annoying. I'd like to minimize brake dust as much as possible.

Current brake setup;

Stock Calipers

Stock 296x32 rotors

Unknon pads

Unknown fulid

After taking in the info, here's what I've come up with;

Motul RBF600 fluid

DBA4000 replacement slotted rotors

(Retaining original Calipers)

Ferado DS2500 pads

Take the dust covers off the front

Ducting to the rotors

Does thing sound like a good setup? Opinions and advice would be great. Also, I've been looking into the caliper spacer that UAS sell so I can run a larger rotor, which to me sounds like a good idea bang for buck, I'm leaning towards getting the spacer kit with the larger DBA4000 slotted rotor, would this be worth doing? I've noticed a few people running the DBA5000 two piece rotor's with spacer kit, but I'm not planning to take the car to the track so it might be a waste for normal/street driving.

Cheers, mat.

If it is just street you are after I would recommend:

RDA rotors from the group buy section. They are much cheaper than the DBA series.

Ferodo pads, maybe not DS2500's, but a cheaper alternative. Look for something with a friction coefficient of about 0.5.

Any common or garden Dot 4 brake fluid - you don't need 600 degree stuff,

Leave the stone guards (Not dust covers!) on.

Forget about ducting.

Replace both front & rear pads.

For street, the stockers are fine. You dont need RBF600 (Dot 5.1 is half the price and should last longer), or the UAS kit (i have it and its an inelegant solution, a bit too much hacking to get it on IMO). Consider rebuilding the calipers tho to make sure they're in top shape. The kit for the front cost me $85 from Racebrakes. Rear was $40.

Likewise you dont need to worry about removing the dust covers or ducting.

What chopping needs to be done? Thats partly the reason why i think the 280 to 324mm kit like mine works better then the 296 to 324mm as the adaptor is more robust/meaty.

Interested to hear what had to be done

For street, the stockers are fine. You dont need RBF600 (Dot 5.1 is half the price and should last longer), or the UAS kit (i have it and its an inelegant solution, a bit too much hacking to get it on IMO). Consider rebuilding the calipers tho to make sure they're in top shape. The kit for the front cost me $85 from Racebrakes. Rear was $40.

Likewise you dont need to worry about removing the dust covers or ducting.

also keen to know what u mean by "hacking"

Adam, What hacking was required to get the UAS kit on? I trial fitted the 343mm one on mine and the only thing you had to remove was the stone guards.

The 343mm kit is fine - there's enough room to make a simple bracket. The 324s have an odd shape that moves the caliper out radially as well as down tangentially to get enough room. Its cleverly designed and nicely machined, but there just not enough room to make it an easy fit.

Re: hacking, as John P will tell you, they dont just bolt on. I had to do quite a bit of angle grinder work to get them into a position that allowed them to be bolted up. The bolt holes in the bracket dont line up until you've removed material on a number of surfaces. Also, you have to bend the brake line a lot to get it to reach. If i were to make the decision today i'd go for the justjap 330mm G4 kit over the UAS 324.

In this photo you can see the bottom of the lower bolt hole on the hub has been ground to allow the bracket to fit. I had to remove more that what's in this picture, i doubt this picture shows the finished job.

UAS324-mini.JPG

also you have to be real careful with fitting of brake caliper mounts and mods!

i saw a brake mount break away and the caliper swung around and took out the lower control arm ! driver was at speed & in an instant had limited steering and loss of brakes.!!!

cheers russ

Re: hacking, as John P will tell you, they dont just bolt on. I had to do quite a bit of angle grinder work to get them into a position that allowed them to be bolted up. The bolt holes in the bracket dont line up until you've removed material on a number of surfaces. Also, you have to bend the brake line a lot to get it to reach. If i were to make the decision today i'd go for the justjap 330mm G4 kit over the UAS 324.

In this photo you can see the bottom of the lower bolt hole on the hub has been ground to allow the bracket to fit. I had to remove more that what's in this picture, i doubt this picture shows the finished job.

UAS324-mini.JPG

interesting, thanks heaps for your input...

bending the brake lines wont matter with me because im going to use braided lines and im fairly handy with a old angle grinder so that wouldnt bother me too much. still seems a bit dodgy that u pay decent money for something that doesnt fit properly. i would expect it from china but not a aussie workshop

or another option would be to get a 343mm kit but would there be rda rotors available at this size, or any other options other than dba?!?

but will 343mm calipers fit under 17 by 9 buddy clubs?!?

Edited by Cerbera
or another option would be to get a 343mm kit but would there be rda rotors available at this size, or any other options other than dba?!?

but will 343mm calipers fit under 17 by 9 buddy clubs?!?

Should fit. Check the ap racing website for their template for that rotor size with the CP5555 caliper. The 6 pot CP5555 is larger than the 4 pot Nissan Brembo or the Sumitomo.

In any case you can readilly compare the caliper sizes.

But I don't know of a cheap 343 rotor....

There are a few cheapish 343 and 340mm rotors around. And you will find that even if the likes of hte AP CP5555 is bigger, it actually saddles the rotor better meaning less clearance is required over the rotor diameter.

The std rotor may fit inside a 17" wheel but it would almost have to be a GTR esque offset. Also, the pad area and swept area of the Sumitomo caliper means that the 343mm rotor is an even bigger compromise then the 324mm rotor with std caliper.

Really, in my eyes the 324mm rotor std caliper upgrade is brilliant for R32, Z32 and S13/14/15, but not quite as good for R32 GTR and R33 GTS25t etc.

It works for the 296mm rotor crowd, but you may as welljust find the pennies and either grab some GTR Brembos or flog off you 296mm setup to a silvia owner and get a Z32 or R32 caliper to run with the 324mm rotor and bracket

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If the RB29 box in the car is a push clutch, then yes, you will need to deal with the pull clutch on the turbo box. You either buy a pull clutch and don't use the old one, or you do the things needed to convert the turbo box's clutch arrangement over to push. Which is a bit of a f**karound. "Making" a custom tailshaft is the easy part. But you will need to source the front clip yoke - the bit that goes into the output of the gearbox. These are not as easy to find. They are out there, but they don't grow on trees the way that they used to.
    • Indicator bulbs are way too bright to use as a "corner marker" (we call them parking lights too). Sure. Go ahead and do it. But realise that you wil need to come up with all your own wiring to do it, as no-one will have a standard howto worked out for Skylines. It's just a matter of abandoning everything that Nissan have done and starting from scratch. You'd probably be better off retrofitting tailght/brakelight globe bases into the front indicator housings and using the taillight circuit for your corner marker and the brake light as the indicator. You'd need to work out how to kill the marker circuit while the indicator is flashing, otherwise it won't flash on-off, just bright-less bright.
    • Hi. A little bit of an update. It maybe(hope not) looks like i would need a new tranny(it would be "maybe" a cheaper or better option anyway) So i need some info. I know i need a different propshaft(i can make custom one) LSD is not a problem cuz the engine will be still(for now) N/A RB20. So if i buy RB25DET NEO tranny...is there something else i need? I read something about push/pull type but i do not know if i need to "change" something or i can just plug n play onto my engine a go? Thanks for the advice  
    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
×
×
  • Create New...