Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys,

just wondering if R34's have factory camber adjustments front and rear? i have a feeling it's front no and rear yes?

My old 17's had their inside front tyres chopped out big time (hence the 2 x free tyres in my for sale thread), and i don't want to repeat with my new 18's... but i have a feeling that traction tyres told me they did what they could up front (when i got an alignment) but said there wasn't a factory camber adjustment? I don't know if this is front or rear or both...

i don't want to go pay for another alignment for my new 18's just for them to turn around and tell me they did their best, but couldn't do it properly... but still pay please

cheers,

daniel

You are right...no adjustment for fronts and a little bit of adjustment at the rears. Depending on how low you go. If I remember SK's advice, recommended height settings for GTT is around 350mm fronts and 345mm rears measured from center of wheel to guard. Any lower and you will need a camber kit for front n rear.

Check out SK's Bilstein GB kit thread, all the info is in there...

my car isn't lowered at all, but will i still need the kits if i want to get it aligned properly? I don't know why the fronts were chopping out on the inside as the car is stock height, but i def don't want a repeat on my new set of 18's.

if your car is not lowered at all, then you definately don't need camber kits. Take it to a proper suspension place to get your allignment looked at....not just some tyre shop..somethings not right there if you have uneven tyre wear.

  • 3 weeks later...

it's official, 2nd place now that's said they can't do anything for me on the fronts. Need a camber kit. The front right is running -2 degree camber, and this is a car with practical brand new tyres, 18' rims, and stock ride height.

thinking of getting the front camber kits from the GB thread, but it's only +/- 1 degree. I really don't want to go chopping the insides of these new tyres though..

i had the whole suspension checked, bushes are fine, shocks/springs fine, no leaks etc... Is there anything common that could be causing me to be running -2 degree camber up front???

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It's kind of interesting - They definitely do builds that split the difference between what they like and what will generate views and engagement. The NC Platform always surprises everyone in a good way, in an uncomfortably good way some may say. They could throw a LS in there and arguably have the best (and best performing) car of the entire stable. But that isn't necessarily what draws views, because people viewing don't want to accept the vegetables of a LS NC MX5 being a superior vehicle in every way (including fun) than a RB26 240Z. This is also why there's not a lot of content about the GR Yaris (on the web in general). They're too good, yet 'only a Yaris' The community doesn't want certain cars to be as good as they are - to beat their hero cars, and I believe the NC MX5 is absolutely one of those cars.
    • Yeah - My key still does the chime thing. I followed the procedure but it didn't activate on the (identical) third set of keyfob that I had. I vaguely remember the alarm saying you can only pair two keys with it. Now that I've dug it up, it appears that you very much can pair keyfobs to the alarm system. (which are the fobs I use to unlock the car). I have successfully diverted the thread and can probably not use the OEM keyfob ever again unless I use the aftermarket alarm and attempt to pair the OEM keyfob to it. Which might just work, or not :D. I definitely used the nissan method and not the aftermarket alarm method.
    • What makes it worse is that Nissan made keys in the same style, for example R34 and Stagea, but they work at different frequencies or something like that. So they look the same but the remotes are not interchangeable. I learned that from some guy selling aftermarket blank keys.
    • Does your door chime work when you have the key in the lock and open the door? I've had that disabled because it's f**king annoying and it is one thing that messes with the pairing. Because now the car doesn't detect key in ignition anymore and the slide-key-in-and-out sequence does not trigger the pairing mode anymore. The service manual has a section on the various bits involved in doing the syncing. I presume it'll be similar between Stagea and R34.
    • Agree, but meh, I think is is based more on LOLS than actually apples to apples, like, who would have thunk a turbo 4 cylinder would not beat a NA 4 cylinder  I think with just basic N/A mods, like a exhaust and tune, it would be equal to the Mini in its current form, maybe I know my current 2.5 would "chop the mini" as the midrange now has a night and day difference in power delivery compared to the tuned 2.0, by around 20kwatw and 30nm from around 2k rpm "ish"....... I'm kinda hoping that they do a N/A build, either with the MZR 2.0 or with whatever they decide to use If I recall correctly they did talk about K swapping one a while ago
×
×
  • Create New...