Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi SAU,

The previous owner of my 97 S3 GTR painted the front lip white, due to marks on the front lip. I'd like to put a black one back on :yes: (I've uploaded a pic of the car with the white lip to show why haha)

Are there any differences between S1/S2/S3 lips?

Any idea where I can get a cheaper replacement front lip? I found one on powerplay imports but it was $1.4k!

Thanks :D

Tommo.

Ps. See the new marks on the right photo? Blame my driveway before I completed my autosalon degree... :)

post-2327-1192054647_thumb.jpg

post-2327-1192054663_thumb.jpg

Edited by TommO
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/188832-r33-gtr-front-lip/
Share on other sites

That looks like a series1 or 2 front lip... think they are very similar.

Series 3 is a bit deeper/bigger....

Brand new from Nissan S1 lip is about 900, S3 lip is about 1300....

Yes just for the lip. If you want the original black look then you may have to fork out that kind of money. You would be better off just painting yours black.

Honestly i think yours looks fine, maybe just buff the black marks off yours, or repaint it white.

Original Lips are plastic and flexible and very expensive. Copies are usually fiberglass and the first time you hit them they will shatter

Series 3 front lip on my car:

http://ferni.net/photos/Cars/0605_RacingLi...ay/target7.html

Ferni...that is a series 3 lip mate :w00t:

Yep S3 lip are waaaay more expensive than they should be but thats the going rate for them. If yours is an original lip then you can take it to a paint shop to get it stripped back to its plastic colour which is kinda dark grey. Once you have done that you can get a can or two of K&H bumper and trim paint in satin black and give it a spray.

I know its not an S3 R33 but when i got mine it was painted white, took it off and went to advanced sandblasting at brookvale, $70 later it was back to new, on the way home i stopped at bunnings and got a can of black spraypaint - check the results below :D

The guys at andvanced sandblasting werent too happy to be doing a car part so i was just REALLY polite and didnt push them for time - then they were happy to do it :w00t:

hrrhrhhrdrh.jpg

sau_20051113_gong_17-1.jpg

Hey mate,

Long time no speak (you came down to see the mines gtr @ Wakefield, if you remember). That conversion looks great... cheers :spank:

After they blasted it back, wasn't it back to black plastic anyway, or did it still have some resedue?

Edited by TommO

you cannot blast it back to factory finish. once it's painted it can't go back to the factory grey, because when you blast it it removes and marks the top layer of rubber and it will look terrible if not painted. just paint it grey black, black stonguard type paint it good.

I did my 32. it had been painted white, and some of the white paint flaked off. Got it done in a grey textured paint that looks very very close to factory finish.

picture063shz3.jpg

2cimg00163uh5.jpg

i've also done my grey GTR lip back to factory style finish as it was painted body colour too and looked pretty average.

the silver GTR i had already had the lip in factory style finish. looked awesome. S3 lip too.

picture037aa4.jpg

That 33 GTR lip looks great, exactly how I dream of mine being. Are you saying I shouldn't sand blast it Richard, rather just get it sprayed by a panel beater?

So the plan of attack will be:

1. Remove lip from bar

2. Find somewhere who can blast it (anyone got any places to recommend that do car stuff?)

3. Paint grey-black colour

4. Re-fit

and it'll be back looking to stock. Sounds easy :spank:

I'll post photos once it's done :P

Edited by TommO

yeah, you can't just have the paint blasted off unfortunately and leave it that way. it will look like ass.

It's just as easy to take the whole car there.

they can remove, strip, paint, refit and bob's your uncle. I did both my 32s at sydney central smash repair and I was happy with both jobs. both my 33s still had their lip in factory condition thank god :spank: colour coded lips are lame.

Yeah, i'm not a huge fan of it being colour coded.. damn previous owner doing things I can't change easily haha

I think i'll take it to a panel beater. This mod will either make or break the cars visual appeal hahahah..

Any idea what paint you used? It looks spot on factory :w00t:

Thanks for all your help so far.

Edited by TommO

I still don't know whether to do colour or black... Hmmmm.

I was gonna get a fibreglass one because hey are so cheap, but if they shatter... I am confused now. Be careful perhaps? I would love to get a smaller one than the standard S3 lip, it's very low hanging. Anyone have any ideas?

Don't go fibreglass....

Original S3 lip is the way. Looks much better than the s1/2. But i'm sure there are plenty of people on here who would trade thier S1/2 lip for your S3 lip :domokun:

The only choice you have is leave it colour coded or paint it black.

Don't go fibreglass....

Original S3 lip is the way. Looks much better than the s1/2. But i'm sure there are plenty of people on here who would trade thier S1/2 lip for your S3 lip :domokun:

The only choice you have is leave it colour coded or paint it black.

I've got the original S3 lip, but it's just damaged from the previous owner, may possible be able to be prepared. I was worried about it being damaged again is all, since the previous owner seemed to damage it so thoroughly. Is it easy to bump?

If I bought a genuine S3 lip, I'd leave it black unless I was definite I wanted to paint it silver. :P If the genuine lips were half what they actually cost, I'd buy one no sweat, but $1k+ is not cheap.

Ahh sorry dude, i got you mixed up with the OP.

If you can repair the original S3 lip you have, go that, colour coded.

If not, keep an eye out on here and on yahoo auctions for an original Lip. In the end it's up to you. You're car :domokun:

Hey mate,

Long time no speak (you came down to see the mines gtr @ Wakefield, if you remember). That conversion looks great... cheers :rofl:

After they blasted it back, wasn't it back to black plastic anyway, or did it still have some resedue?

Yeah afterwards it had zero residue on it (they did a great job), i had a few scratches on it from gutters etc that i had to sand back but then it was all good to go with the black paint

I wouldve left it grey but i like the contrast against the white, and the IC area is black anyway so that matches IMO, pls te grey makes it look a bit too old

Congrats on the buy ;)

I used advanced sandblasting at brookvale, they did a great job

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Also sorry to hear this @DanielStone - I remember @SmoothLine well, he was around for a very long time and was one of the original members of this site.  God Speed Matt. Thoughts with his family and friends.
    • Nice car! Looking at your GTS; makes me wonder why I bought a GTS-t... Everything has been changed anyway. I should have just started with a non turbo model.
    • Rear doors central locking wiring removed and cleaned. See the first 8sec video of when it’s filled with river silt. its a snip of what I’m up against. front and rear doors complete now. Maybe another day removing carpet and bits and pieces. Then the re assembly begins. 🤙 att.DqweJqhY5MZiZYQDVMhn3LtvdD1RBZ7TBG4f2s7W1zM.mp4 att.lFuN22MZEowqCbFAXoDw009r2gHL76ChMVfxMfBX-uk.mp4
    • There aren't boost creep issues, it's not engineered around the restriction of the cats but if you haven't tuned the engine a full decat + exhaust can flow enough air to run off the end of the OEM load scales and you will get a pretty substantial reduction in ignition timing as a result. I recommend using DFCO, avoiding ignition cut limiters, and avoiding popcorn tunes along with running a cat unless you enjoy a perpetually soot-covered and potentially burnt bumper.
    • Small update, it's been slow moving over the Christmas period with money having to go everywhere thats not my car 😅. I got myself a little present to myself from "santa" in the form of some tidy radiator mounts from fitmint automotive to get rid of the stock ones that look like they have been in an accident before and then straightened by a caveman. I know I should've replaced the rubber bush at the same time but I had no idea how bad they were until I was replacing the mounts. Decided to order their dash mat while I was at it as I feel like I am lucky enough to have a pretty decent condition dash and I don't want to risk it being ruined while it's parked in the aussie sun while I'm at work. I have found another electrical fault to add to the evergrowing list to eventually chase down. Every time I replace my taillight globe it blows within a day of use, I'm starting to think my life would be easier if I took a few minutes to learn how to use  a multimeter 😂.   Had some luck with finding a series 2 drivers headlight on marketplace to replace my mismatched series 1 headlight, a subtle difference but it's nice to have a matching set of lights now.   I returned to the air con problem due to being sick of this summer heat, found a good condition condenser to replace my leaking one! I got it in the car and was happy when I got the thumbs up that the system was now holding gas. Sadly the compressor is not kicking in for some reason, we even tried branching the relay in the fuse box. I have tried to do some research on the issue with no clear understanding of what the fix is, so for now it will be placed on the backburner until I can be bothered to look into the wiring to the compressor. The last small mods I have done was cutting the horizontal vents out of the front bar, not really in a functional airflow sense but I just think it looks better as I am not a fan of the series 2 bar. I also switched the shift knob out for a hosoboyo aluminium grex style one, it has a really nice more direct driving feel than the outdated rubbery oem one. Thirdly, I chucked on one of the ebay bonnet strut kits. The fitment is decent and they seem to work fairly well. They have only given out once while the car was parked facing downhill, I think if I was working under the bonnet I would still put the oem hood stay up to be precautionary as to avoid getting a speedy concussion.
×
×
  • Create New...