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Help Plz! bleed valve not letting wastegate close

Cool Hand Luke
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Cool Hand Luke Community Regular

Cool Hand Luke

Posted
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Hi guys,

I dont know if anyone else has experienced a similar problem, but when i shift gears after the wastegate has opened, it wont close for a while again. Im using a turbo smart bleed valve, and it has a bit smaller fittings on the valve, would this be causing it or have i forgotten something? Any help would be appreciated!

bbenny Mentor

bbenny

Posted
Posted

I had the same problem with the turbosmart valve when i had it wound all the way down (to make standard boost) i found after i gave it a few clicks to the + positive it would close the gate properly. ive had a few funny problems with that valve, i ended up drilling out the tiny hole inside filling it and then re-drilling the hole diameter. it seems to be ok now, although i cant run anything less than 14psi.

Cool Hand Luke Community Regular

Cool Hand Luke

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Ive only wound it a few clicks but dont want to wind it much more. Fully closed it had 12psi... At the moment it spikes at around 13-4psi and drops off to 12-13 depends on the load. Will the spikes cause my exhaust wheel to fall off, or is it just long stints with 14+psi? Because if they are not too bad i'll just let it spike at 15 and run at 14..

Thanks!

bbenny Mentor

bbenny

Posted
Posted

well i was told that they do tend to break at anything more than 14psi. ive been running my standard turbo at 16psi for over a year now and havent had any probs, it spikes at 1.1bar - 1.2bar (i think thats about 17psi) and drops a little. i havent had it on the track yet, because im scared it may break...

so be careful at what u do set it at. i dunno if ive just been lucky or whether its ok to run that boost. i am however plannig to uprgade to an RB25 turbo soon.

YBSLO4 Proficient

YBSLO4

Posted
Posted

Sounds like i aint th eonly one who can't run below 13psi? I am also running a single stage gated boost controller with in cabin switch and have the same problem... I put my new turbo in the other day and chucked the boost controller in, and like someone said earlier my wastegate stays open for friggen ages... i don't get it... like i'm talken it flutters for about 10+ secs if i want it to... but my maine problem is i wnat to run less boost but not sure what to do, whether its the boost controller or the way we are running them? I am going to go disconnect the boost controller and see what happens i think...

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

I had a 2 stage bleeder but it was a home made type jobbie with a restrictor. It turned out that I was spiking to around 17-17.5psi when I was running 14psi. The in car boost guage wasn't showing this up and I didn't notice it on the dyno however when I hooked up my Blitz SBC-iD that had a peak hold readout it would show that I was spiking that that level.

Removed the bleeder and slapped the solanoid in there and the car felt like it was slower.. But.. it wasn't spiking anymore only hitting 15psi and holding.

I'm running 16psi and have been for some time now with no problems.

YBSLO4 Proficient

YBSLO4

Posted
Posted

Well i think i am going to just take out my turbosmart one... can someone please explain to me how a standard R32 turbo hooks up to the factory boost controller... as the turbo i have has a line off the compressor housing like and R32 aswell as the line on the wastegate actuator which normally i am told you connect to each other which is how i am running mine now with the boost controller t-pieced out of this, however with my stock R33 turbo there isn't a line off the compressor housing so the wastegate actuator so it hooks up different to the sotck boost controller as comapred to an R32.

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

The Standard R32 has a hose running from a nipple in front of the turbo air outlet to the wastegate actuator. You simply snip this hose and insert a T- piece then connect the bleeder to the T piece.

The R32 doesn't have the same 2 stage boost that the R33's have hence it doesn't require the solanoid that regulates the high and low 2 stage boost.

YBSLO4 Proficient

YBSLO4

Posted
Posted

I think i have it... i got it down to about 10-11psi, by pluging up the nipple on the compressor housing then running the wastegate up to the nipple on the cooler piping and then the bottom line of the two lines on the OEM bc connects to the intake pipe where the BOV return line meets with the intake pipe.

Cool Hand Luke Community Regular

Cool Hand Luke

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I fixed the problem. I got rid of the spikes almost completley buy shortening the hose around 15-20cm. Its not possible to make it shorter now :). I also fixed the wastegate problem buy opening the bleed valve more. As i turned it more it didnt increase the boost but made the wastegate shut faster when i close the throttle. I have it on around 16clicks open and it sits perfectly on 14psi, doesnt go over, and holds there to the crappy rb20 turbo runs out of puff :D.

CR34TION Proficient

CR34TION

Posted
Posted

How do you know your wastegate stays open? If it stays open doesn't it mean you produce less boost?

My car idles high and when i clutch in and come to a stop the rev's don't drop for about 2-3 seconds.. it hangs at about 1500rpms before it drops to idle.. sometimes it jumps a little... is this a wastegate problem?

I don't have any boost mods.

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