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96' Nissan Skyline Series II M Spec

100,000kms

5 Speed Manual

300rwhp

New Hi-Flow Garrett Roller Bearing Turbo

Front Mount Intercooler

APEXi Power FC with Hand Controller

17" Volk Racing Wheels with New Tyres

HKS Coilover Suspension

3" Kakimoto Exhaust

3" Dump Pipe

New Heavy Duty Clutch

Z32 Air Flow Meter

Pod Filter

Front and Rear Strut Braces

NISMO 320km Dash

GTR Drivers Seat

BLITZ Dual Stage Electronic Boost Controller

APEXi Turbo Timer

APEXi Boost Guage

GREDDY Exhaust Temp Guage

Tinted Windows

JVC CD Player

Serviced Every 5,000kms. Very Good Condition.

First Owner in Australia. Will Not Dissapoint.

$18,950 o.n.o.

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    • It is an absolute lottery. They can and have died at stock boost with low usage at all. The turbos are now anywhere up to 36 years old!
    • Huh, wonder why it blew then. I never really beat on the car THAT hard lol I dailyed it and the turbo blew after 6 months
    • That's odd, it works fine here. Try loading it on a different device or browser? It's Jack Phillips JDM, a Skyline wrecker in Victoria. Not the cheapest, but I have found them helpful to find obscure parts in AU. https://jpjdm.com/shop/index.php
    • Yeah. I second all of the above. The only way to see that sort of voltage is if something is generating it as a side effect of being f**ked up. The other thing you could do would be to put a load onto that 30V terminal, something like a brakelamp globe. See if it pulls the voltage away comepletely or if some or all of it stays there while loaded. Will give you something of an idea about how much danger it could cause.
    • I would say, you've got one hell of an underlying issue there. You're saying, coils were fully unplugged, and the fuse to that circuit was unplugged, and you measured 30v? Either something is giving you some WILD EMI, and that's an induced voltage, OR something is managing to backfeed, AND that something has problems. It could be something like the ECU if it takes power from there, and also gets power from another source IF there's an internal issue in the ECU. The way to check would be pull that fuse, unplug the coils, and then probe the ECU pins. However it could be something else doing it. Additionally, if it is something wired in, and that something is pulsing, IE a PWM circuit and it's an inductive load and doesnt have proper flyback protection, that would also do it. A possibility would be if you have something like a PWM fuel pump, it might be giving flyback voltages (dangerous to stuff!). I'd put the circuit back into its "broken" state, confirm the weird voltage is back, and then one by one unplug devices until that voltage disappears. That's a quick way to find an associated device. Otherwise I'd need to look at the wiring diagrams, and then understand any electrical mods done.   But you really should not be seeing the above issue, and really, it's indicating something is failing, and possibly why the fuse blew to begin with.
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