Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

How much money you got to spend?

First.. the basics

Strip interior (back seats, door trims, carpet, cernter console etc etc etc) -20kg (free)

Light weight wheels (~3K wheels and tyres) 10kg

Carbon fibre bonnet (~1K) 8kg

Fiberglass front quarter pannels (~$500 painted) ~3kg

Remove all HICAS gear (free) 10kg

Remove all sound deadining (floor plan/boot/wheel arches) (free) 10kg

Remove spare wheel/jack etc. (free) 8kg

Now for the hardcore enthusiest - remove anything that weighs more than 100gm's that is not ESSENTIAL for the car to run

Power steering 10kg (free)

Air condictioning 8kg (free)

Sound system 5kg (free)

Power windows 8kg (free)

Replace all nuts and bolts with lighter alturnatives 2kg (??)

Perspecs glass where appropriate ?? Price?

Anything that can be replaced for a carbon fibre/fiber glass item (boot lids, strut bars, hollow sway bars, lightned flywheels) Too much for the saving of max 20kg for the price of 5K

its not a bad way to spend ~10K

Look into what the hardcore togue Civics do.

Basicaly, the goal is to have in the car 1 seat 1 engine (no other acc.) 1 Gear box and a diff. thats it.

think thats about it

the easiest way to lose weight is to go on a diet, then remove all the things you don't need in it like the back seat(really... who uses their skyline's back seat for anything other than shopping bags) spare tyre and boot trim. Then replace heavy parts with lighter composite materials, start with the cheap easy ones to get, bonnet, fenders, boot, then move on to doors if you need to. DON'T fit a wanky fibreglass bodykit to your car, as it'll only weigh you down... nissan's wind tunnel tested their factory aero kits to be quite aerodynamic.

More power won't make your car slow down quicker when going into turns, lose weight before you add power.

arghhh ye be hackin her up lol..

I shared the car with my dad on occasions and he's the typical kind of granny driver, needed everything in the car..

If you are pretty much the only one driving the car then for starters I'd get rid of the boot interior, spare tyre in the back, rear seats and maybe look at a carbon fibre bonnet and maybe coil overs I think they are a little lighter than stock suspension?

I'd also look in getting a chipped ecu or something so you can throw it on a dyno and get everything tuned out. I'm sure that will help a fair bit. I'm also curious to see what it makes on the dyno and runs down the quarter. From experience I wouldn't be suprised if you could get in the 14's.

More power won't make your car slow down quicker when going into turns, lose weight before you add power.

i take it that was directed at me shan. whilst i wholeheartedly agree with what you've said. most people don't care much for slowing down and taking corners initially, because they don't feel and see the initial result of their mods. my observation is that they tend to worry about that when they start coming in too fast and spinning out.

this is of course coming from a guy who has done suspension/brakes and f**k all power. :)

Hmm, not thinking about cutting her up, but i wouldn't mind hitting a dyno and down a quater, ive already hit a few guys, and she punches hard for a NA.

Keep the suggestions rolling as im keen to see what every one has to say.

already hit a few guys, and she punches hard for a NA.

I assume on a track?

What have you taken down?

I got SHAT on by a GTi.. Held neck and neck with a Rodeo with a 2.7L and headers. kept pretty well with a 180 (assuming CA) from rolling start..

Im really starting to regret going ATTESSA :domokun:

My mates r31, some gay lexus tried to go me, holden ute with his gf in it she was pissed, 180, and held close with an r34 but he was a lil quicker.

Thats after 5 days of having the car, it attracts alot of attention :domokun:

Hey all,

Just bought my r33 of ignuz, drives nice but wanting to go lighter for track purposes, any ideas on how to make my car lighter with out taking a chainsaw to it :down:

Thanks

Dave

This is what I've done with my 33 so far, and it has made a huge difference:

Removed (starting from the back):

Boot Lining / Carpet / Plywood Spare Wheel cover etc

Jack

Rear Seat

Rear Seat belts

Rear Speakers

Rear Parcel Tray

Steel Backing Plate between the battery and rear seat

HICAS

Rear Wiper / Motor

Superlight Weight Wheels (17 Work Equip Tri Spokes)

Car Carpet (not noticeable if you leave floor mats in at the front)

Entire Air con system, including coil inside the dash, compressor, cast iron brackets. (Kept heater though)

90% front bar reo, fitted fibre glass front bumper

Front indicators (rewired parkers as indicators)

Air bag steering wheel

Plastic Linings Inside the guards

Bonnet Lining

Splash Guard

Next to do:

Replace factory front seats with something lighter and better holding

Fibre glass Bonnet and front guards

dunno if removing the front reo is such a good idea, as its there to absorb hits so your chassis doesn't bare the brunt of a frontal. but other than that that list sounds awesome way of goin about it.

how far you wanna go really depends on how much of a daily drivable street car you wanna keep it. I've found factory GTR rims to be the best value for money, as they're about 6 or 7 kgs a corner and really cheap compared to wheels sold as lightweight rims.

Probably best you keep the backing plate between the boot and cabin. Battery acid does wonders to your body if you get acid on you. and it's also illegal to remove it. front and rear bumpers are best to replace with fibreglass ones and also boot lid, and bonnet and front guards.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I’m doing some side developments on SR20det S13 engines, its one my hobby cars used it to compare flow capacity of some smaller size wheels. SR20det is one of another JDM legendary engines I'm sure there are plenty of SR enthusiasts on this forum, I will share results some common turbo configurations here. a quick run down of what the car is: Wide body 180sx Type X with black top engine (blue). It has: Stock bottom end Haltech 1500 ECU 5-0 motorsports trigger kit Kelford SR20DET Beehive Spring with Titanium Retainers Kelford Cams SR20DET S13 188-B 268/272 Cams G25-660 Turbocharger in T2 .64 rear housing internally gated ARP Head studs MLS head gasket 1000CC ID injectors Walbro 450L Fuel pump Front mount cooler kit JJR’s 3 inches turbo back exhaust (its too short for the 180sx it had to be extended) Pump 98 fuel Hub Dyno tune So far made 270rwkws at 22psi full boost by 4500RPM. Engine is very knock limited hence a pretty bad looking top end. From previous experiences it seems like SR20dets are happier with bigger size turbine, some thing like a GT30 would make way better top end, but on same time response is lost. It won't be a problem with S15 VCT engines. I'll be testing alternative turbine housing, turbine wheel and possibly dump pipe options for extra flow to resolve the problem and of course E85 would resolve all the issues.            
    • Awesome writeup and details. Thanks for sharing the story so far. I can relate to parts of it with my previous car and some of the issues I had to deal with.
    • Wow the colour matched hard top completely transforms the car. Are there any nice front lip options for the car or is that off the table?
    • Generally yes but for some reason I've been ruthless this time around!  I might even need to do another tip run after the way I've finally been able to hit the delete button on shit I've stepped over, stepped around and tripped over for the past 10 years!
    • I just quote the Rolling Stones. Paint it black.
×
×
  • Create New...