Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i just tried to install the safc2 .. wired up the power and 2 ground.. turn on ignition and nothing comes on..

i am pretty sure i wired them to the correct ones ..

would i be able to connect it straight to the battery to test if its working? eg. 1power wire to +ve and 2ground wire to -ve on the battery?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/189234-safc-install/
Share on other sites

ok.. manage to get it starting now..

went through the initialize stage before starting the engine..

sensor type - hot wire - in 1 out 1 - in 1 out 1

car - 6 cyclinder and arrow diagonal up

when go in sensor check.. it shows voltage on afm input 2 and not 1 .. and throttle was showing 0.65v

when i start my engine after initialize setup.. the engine drops rev to 600rpm and the light on top right corner lights up.. (assuming its knock?)

when i unplug the afm wire from the safc and plug it back normally.. engine is fine .. but as soon as i plug the afm wire into safc ... it drops idles and shows knock on my dash

the white wire from safc is connected to afm input and outputs on the yellow to the ecu.. so i am pretty sure i did it correct.

when i first start the engine.. it seems to be running fine.. idle normal but when i went into the monitor section and held the arrow to the right... the engine just dropped the rev and knock sensor shows up.. so i am not sure what i did..

help me please... is there anyway to reset the safc? and how?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/189234-safc-install/#findComment-3417108
Share on other sites

yes its wired correctly you just haven't set it up properly. when you choose you sensor type select Hot Wire as the sensor, the Sens.NO should be 04 04, and in Sens.Cal it should be 01 01. should be all good if you set it to this.

Edited by QWK32
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/189234-safc-install/#findComment-3417150
Share on other sites

ok.. thanks for the reply..

just want to make sure something.. with initialize..

do i go into initialize and choose yes after everything is done, then turn ign off.. is that correct? or am i suppose to go into initialize .. as soon as i turn on ign?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/189234-safc-install/#findComment-3417176
Share on other sites

ok.. so now i've tried to set the sensor type to hotwire 4in 4out.. cal 1in 1out..

when i start the engine.. the revs goes to 2krpm now with the ... sensor lights up as well... (top right of speedo) .. what is wrong with it? i tried change it back to 1in1out and same thing ... it jumps to 2krpm rev... and stays constant.

i unplug the afm wire from the safc and plug it back witout the safc and it works fine again... is there something wrong with my safc? am i going to damage the engine if i keep trying to work it out by doing these things?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/189234-safc-install/#findComment-3420267
Share on other sites

ok.. so now i've tried to set the sensor type to hotwire 4in 4out.. cal 1in 1out..

when i start the engine.. the revs goes to 2krpm now with the ... sensor lights up as well... (top right of speedo) .. what is wrong with it? i tried change it back to 1in1out and same thing ... it jumps to 2krpm rev... and stays constant.

i unplug the afm wire from the safc and plug it back witout the safc and it works fine again... is there something wrong with my safc? am i going to damage the engine if i keep trying to work it out by doing these things?

the sensor type , hotwire 04 in and 04 out is the setting for all skylines (unless gtr, its 03 03) so leave that set like that. just looking back at your previous post and you said the afm signal voltage is coming in on signal 2 not signal 1.

have you tried using the other afm signal in wire, usually used with twin afm applications, but maybe your wiring was hooked up the wrong way at the factory by mistake, not your fault. you need the afm voltage to be coming in on sensor input 1 for it to work properly. i think you aren't getting a signal sent out to the ecu because it isn't getting one on input 1.

lets say this is the case: (dont worry it wont damage your engine)

to quickly check this you can change the SensCal. to 02 in and 01 out. this will accept signals on both inputs. if your car runs ok then then you know the input signal wire are the wrong way around. switch your afm input to the other input line and set the SensCal back to 01 in and 01 out.

i hope this makes sense.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/189234-safc-install/#findComment-3420387
Share on other sites

can't set sensor calc to 2in 1 out.. when i change to 2in, it only shows add or ave on out..

ok.. i've just tried sensor calc to 2in add out.. and still no change... rev still drops to 600rpm with tcs, slip and knock lights up on the dash.

Edited by ducki
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/189234-safc-install/#findComment-3424601
Share on other sites

would that Apexi unit work well with turbo and injector upgrades like to make mid to high 300's? and if you aren't an idiot can you figure out pretty easily how to tune it right. I'm stuck in between a greddy E manage and an Apexi AFC type unit. I think the Apexi unit would be easier for a first time user but i'm unsure of it's capabilities in the real world.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/189234-safc-install/#findComment-3426181
Share on other sites

and if you aren't an idiot can you figure out pretty easily how to tune it right.

Sorry mate but you absolutely need either a dyno or a wideband AFR meter to tune a SAFC correctly. And most people who have SAFC's have neither of these.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/189234-safc-install/#findComment-3427313
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There is a way, but it's not with the same cars. You need to find the same vintage of car, that we had. Realistically, that was an affordable car with aftermarket parts around. So what people need to find is a car that had a decent base in its day, and can be modified. They're looking for a car year make of 2010 to 2015 really... Aus could have done it if Holden didn't fold as V8 commodores were cheap, and if Ford didn't get expensive thanks to COVID, then you could cheaply play with FG Barras. Realistically, those are just a bit heavier, four door skylines. I'm sure the US and UK have similar cars they could find.
    • Haha I do that.. thats when it chirps..The bit point for me is almost non-existent. Otherwise I stall it. But yes, in terms of performance, the clutch is solid af.
    • Greg speaks wisdom. These dirty old Datsuns are only value when they are cheap. When they are not cheap, there is no value. Sounds contradictory, but it's true. We are now 20 years past the hey day of modifying cheap 90s JDM cars for small amounts of money. This is a different world. If you are rich and can afford not to care about what is effectively wasting money on an old Datto shitter, then I have no reason to argue against it. But if you are wanting to experience what we all experienced back in 2005 (and I bought my car last century!) then there is no way to do it.
    • Short answer: No. Medium answer: No, because you still need to conjure the things out of thin air to bolt them to a NA to make it a NA+T. Long Answer: No - The things you need to conjure - meaning a turbo, intercooling, manifolds, exhaust, intake/manifold/piping, clutch, injectors, fuel pump, AFM (?), ECU + Wiring (woo, N/A loom fun) have to come from somewhere. You could have many scavenged these things from an OEM car that someone had upgraded from and use some of these. This will be cost prohibitive now, especially so in the USA. You'd probably pay the same for newer, upgraded components that are better than old OEM stuff from 25-30 years ago. None of these big ticket items are re-usable for the N/A car. Why not buy new and upgrade while you're there? The only real consideration is turbo and fuel sizing and determining whether you want to stay within the bounds of the OEM engine or get into rebuild territory. These limits ARE lower with a N/A motor and especially N/A gearbox at the starting point. And if you're gonna upgrade those then you may as well consider having them built to begin with. Because everyone here knows you're never far from that next engine rebuild once you start making the power you want... The cars you see on the internet and SAU etc have been built over decades. If you're really clued in... you would sell your US car to somebody for what you paid for it. You would then scour AU JDM pages or SAU and buy a car like Dose's on this forum with your powerful American Dollar. This will save you so much money in the long term. Importing it could be tricky. Or it might not because USA. I have long said the only reason 90's Japanese stuff took off was because a) Japanese people had Japanese cars so that is what they used b) Australians could import these cars to Australia with very minimal changes and use them on the road here c) Neither country had well-priced access to US or EU Sports Cars. I don't believe the JDM scene would have taken off in Australia at all if we had EU priced EU BMW M offerings, or more especially the AUS V8 Scene would never have existed if we had the multitude of US cars like Camaros, Mustangs, Corvettes at the prices you folks do. After all - Do the math. I would say put a V8 in your R34 and that's the smart way forward. It is. I did it. I know this from my own experience. But at that point there's no reason to simply not buy a C5 or C6? It would be simpler and easier and cheaper and bette-
    • Reading all this... hurts lol. I have an ENR34 5MT and I paid an inflated USA price for the car alone, had to do tons of preventative maintenance past that, and so I'm over $30K USD into the car already and haven't even touched power.  I wanted to +t it. Not even trying to make GTR numbers, I'd be happy with 250hp.  Can I get away with paying much less to make that happen?
×
×
  • Create New...