Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi folks,

I have a v35 300gt p-collection landing in Brisbane this week and Im looking to upgrade the suspension. I have driven a 300gt before and wasnt that impressed with its cornering. It seemed to have a lot of Body roll.

So have any of you fellow sedan owners upgraded the suspension ? If so what did you do, how did it turn out and home much did it cost ?

Thanks guys.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/189277-v35-sedan-suspension-and-handling/
Share on other sites

Ive got whiteline 350z swaybars, & Tein CS Coilovers in the coupe version

I have 20inch wheels aswell... but I dare say my Cefiro with only Tein HR suspension handled alot better. I dont know if its the monsterous wheels or the softer suspension (CS stands for comfort series) but It just doesnt feel as nimble. Im going to get a suspension place to check it out and give me an opinion on what they think I should change, as it just feels a bit unstable going into corners at pace

JK

awesome!

got any pics?

what does the "p collection" stand for? do you mean "premium pack"?

Waz,

I think the sedans got different designations to the Coupes. I'm pretty sure there's a P collection and S collection, but no idea on the differences.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Strength. And on the early RB26, full engagement of the pump drive.
    • I really don't understand the point of aftermarket oil pumps if your particular engine doesn't need more oil pressure. As far as I can make sense of it the problem seems to be cavitation from sucking air, maybe the pump gear design with how it interfaces with the OEM crank, and maybe the backing plate screws wanting to loosen themselves. How does flowing more oil fix these issues?
    • More photos are up, and the price has been dropped to $16,000. It's just had a service and a new 12V battery, too.
    • I agree on doing some better than factory pistons, rods, and oil pump. For anyone using the vehicle on the road, I don't get why everyone wants big cams. The stock cam profile, with some more lift would be mint for road usage. Everyone going big cams and then wondering why it isn't as responsive in traffic, when they've shifted the torque curve upwards an additional 1000RPM. Make torque, at lower RPM. Sure it's not as cool as claiming "500KW" and revving it to 8,0000RPM, but that same torque 2,000RPM earlier... Then you don't need the extremely high end pistons and rods, and blah blah blah.
    • Personal experience. Those f**kers burn. And are actually a PITA to put out. Next time I walk down the back, I'll snap a photo of what the inside of the bonnet looks like when that thing ignites. PS, powder fire extinguishers are useless on that stuff too as it's fibrous and when it ignites, it starts to pull apart. And you end up just blowing powder through a sieve effectively.   Like the big thing is, if it's fire resistant, it's job is to stop what burning? The METAL above it? It's just to try keep heat off the bonnet paint work.
×
×
  • Create New...