Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I just bought a R34 GTT and have purchased a Nismo Radiator Cap. I am hoping to make the engine abit more visually appealing.

However, the nismo cap is for 1.3 bar, where as my standard cap releases at 0.9 Bar.

Im just wondering whether or not i should actually use it, as this is quite a large increase in pressure to my cooling system.

Any ideas and feedback would be great.

I just dont want to damage or cause any problems to my cooling system just to have it show the Nismo logo.

Cheers Grant.

PS i searched but couldnt find any topics to fit my question :down:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/189293-installing-nismo-13-bar-cap-to-gtt/
Share on other sites

Someone in Vic did this to their 34 gtt....then spent a fair bit of time on a skidpan which resulted in the radiators head tank exploding due to the increased pressure.

Basically don't fit unless you have an alloy radiator.

awesome. I read somewhere that most nissan turbo models run 1.2 bar stocko caps anyway and the non turbos run 0.9..

Mine clearly says .9 and as far as i know its all stocko.

Oh well might make a good paper weight at work or something.

Thanks for the reply!

Haha thats the best video ive seen in ages.

In short... my car will never cop that much punishment. I wish it did, but i couldnt afford to break it lol.

So yeh, i can understand that sort of punishment will find the limits of the standard cooling system haha. but lets be honest, mine only does the daily job and sometimes cops a first to second gear. nothing really

I might put it on yet..

Someone in Vic did this to their 34 gtt....then spent a fair bit of time on a skidpan which resulted in the radiators head tank exploding due to the increased pressure.

Basically don't fit unless you have an alloy radiator.

thats absolute bullshit, if your car is a shit box course it will have issues..... blame the radiator not the cap......FFS i can tell you now if it had std cap it would have spewed all its coolant all over the place then probaly cooked itself.... if the rad was in good nick it would been fine. think of it as fitting a bigger turbo to a tired engine.... not a good idea.

the whole point is to increase the pressure to raise the vapourisation point, works very well so well in fact i have them fitted to all the tow cars we use.

When towing the race cars around the old patrol (2006 model) used to vent the cap during towing and continue to pump the coolant out of the resevoir now it is sweet. Same with most cars that see track days or hills work.

best budget cooling upgrade available.

i have a 34 gtt and it has a greddy radiator cap thats at 1.3 bar and ive never had any probs. the car has the usual mods to it hks fmic, hks exhaust, power fc, spitfire coils. and the car is driven reasonably hard and it has never used a drop of coolant since ive had iticon1.gif

Hi guys, thought i'd share my .25 cents.

I make alloy radiators for a living and service radiators..

Stick with 0.9 bar, if you're having over heating issues and need to go up in pressure, something isnt right..

The reason bass junky's radiator exploded was he would have had an old top tank on the radiator, these are always seeing the hottest water and if the motor is overheated at some stage steam kills the plastic in the tanks..

after years of hot/cold/hot/cold/steam cycling, the plastic gives away.. it's a simple fault.. some radiators being cheaper to fix/repair obviously.

I have an R32 GTS w/ rb20det in my skyline with a standard R32 GTST radiator that has been rodded out and a new top tank on it.. I can sit on the spot for hours with NO overheating problems and NO radiator-exploding-on-skid-pan problems re: bass junky.

Also, alot of the "greddy/trust/nismo" radiator caps are rebranded denso caps.. I will only ever use a genuine denso cap for my cars (0.9bar)

May I ask why is that? What are the cons of using a 1.3bar one?

Higher pressure caps will find the weakness in your cooling system..

either old heater hoses will pop, or the top tank will or turbo lines will or a heater core will leak..

As far as i'm concerned if the radiator has never been serviced and you put a higher pressure cap on it.. you're asking for trouble.. sure it may work fine, but its only a matter of time..

  • 2 weeks later...

Poor excuse for lazyiness^^^^ if its gonna go with a 1.3bar cap its gonna go regardless of cap pressure as it is already compromised.... time is the only differrence.

I agree with URAS, if you want to go racing or drifting make sure all your hoses are new ones (sillicon is best) not old, and that all clamps are quality and tight. Get your radiator rodded/cleaned out every year and wack on a 1.3 bar and Bobs your uncle.

Edited by ryano

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Has equal chance of cleaning an AFM and f**king an AFM. I think you can work out what happened. When the Hitachi ECU sees the AFM die and goes into the associated limp mode, then it will start and run just fine, because it ignores the AFM and just runs on idle maps that will do what it needs to get it going. But there is no proper load signal, so that's about all it can do. My suggestion? If you don't want to go full aftermaket ECU, then get some R35 GTR AFM cards and some housings to put them in, in the stock location, and Nistune the ECU. Better to do a good upgrade than just replace shitty 40 year old tech with the same 40 year old tech.
    • So my car was recently having trouble starting on initial crank, I would need to feather the gas for it to start up but besides that it would start and run fine. So I clicked the idle air control valve (with throttle body cleaner) and cleaned the MAF sensors (with MAF cleaner). The start up issue was fixed and now the car turns over without the assist of the throttle, but the car is in limp mode and wont rev past 2.5k RPM. From what I understand the IACV would not put the car in limp mode, so I am to believe it is the MAF sensors, but it was running fine before and now I cant get it out of limp mode. I cleaned the MAF made sure the o rings were seated properly. Made sure the cables were plugged in properly, the cables also both read the same voltage. Does anybody know why this is or what could be causing this or how to get it out of limp mode?
    • Ooo I might actually come and bring the kids, however will leave the shit box home and take the daily
    • Thanks. Yeah I realised that there's no way I'd be able to cover the holes with the filler, it would just fall through. Thanks again @GTSBoy!
    • That was the reason I asked. If you were going to be fully bodge spec, then that type of filler is the extreme bodge way to fill a large gap. But seeing as you're going to use glass sheet, I would only use that fibre reinforced filler if there are places that need a "bit more" after you've finished laying in the sheet. Which, ideally, you wouldn't. You might use a blob of it underneath the sheet, if you need to provide some support from under to keep the level of your sheet repair up as high as it needs to be, to minimise the amount of filler you need on top. Even though you're going bodge spec here, using glass instead of metal, the same rules apply wrt not having half inch deep filler on the top of the repair. Thick filler always ends up shitting the bed earlier than thin filler.
×
×
  • Create New...