Jump to content
SAU Community

Attessa 4wd Problems?

IDO 11S R32
 Share

Recommended Posts

IDO 11S R32 Collaborator

IDO 11S R32

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hi, I have an R32 GTR, when I take off the front torque split goes to max on the guage. I recently fitted a TSC (torque split controller and thought it might have been faulty but I removed it today and it still does the same thing? As soon as the car rolls, either forward or backward it all binds up, the rear diff locks, as if it were a locker diff and the car fights itself to move. When I was reversing on a slight incline today I noticed that the car wouldnt roll dawn the incline when it was running but when I turned the car off you caould feel everything release and the car started rolling down the incline. Start the car and it would all bind up again. Tyres are all the same. I read a post where someone checked for error codes on the ATTESSA computer, can someone also tell me where the computer is and how to check for the error codes. At the moment the TSC has a 2WD switch, and when I leave it in 2wd it is fine, so I am driving around in 2wd mode, I am thinking that this could also mean the the G force sensor in the car is stuffed as this is what the TSC is wired into but this could also be masking another problem somewhere else in the drive train. I have done everthing I can think of to resolve the problem but to no avail. I swapped the front and rear tyres around as I recently fitted new tyres to the front (same brand and size) but was told that the different wear may have caused the problem, I now know this was not the problem. Has anyone had this problem and can shed some light on this for me?????? HELP!!!

post-42702-1192436829_thumb.jpg

Edited by IDO 11S R32
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/189374-attessa-4wd-problems/
Share on other sites
IDO 11S R32 Collaborator

IDO 11S R32

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Dont know, will post a pic, it has coilovers, this is the next thing I will sort out, I noticed today that the drivers side rear is lower then the passenger side rear by about 10-15mm. Dont know if this would effect it, front isnt that low though. I have had the car for about two months and it has only just started doing this I haven't touched the suspension since purchasing it.

IDO 11S R32 Collaborator

IDO 11S R32

Posted
  • Author
Posted

NO, but did check the fluid level, it is slightly overfull. I recently changed diff and gearbox oils, first I thought I had blown the diff, or it was on the way out at least, but it makes no noise, very little diff slap and works perfectly when in 2wd mode.????

CeJay Grand Master

CeJay

Posted
Posted

attessa computer is the silver box on the underside of the parcel shelf, at least on my 4dr gts4. As far as I know it will only flash ecu error codes when the 4wd light is on, signifying an error. Theres a red led on the underside of it.

IDO 11S R32 Collaborator

IDO 11S R32

Posted
  • Author
Posted

If the center clutch pack is stuffed, how do I fix this? What sort of money am I looking at, and where should I take it to get it fixed? I live in Western Sydney near WSID. How sure can you be that its the clutch packs?

IDO 11S R32 Collaborator

IDO 11S R32

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Did you check the TPS connection when you asked before about this problem????????

Yes I checked the connections, they are all fine. I even disconnected the unit from the car but it still had the same problem? Took the car to CRD today they dont know what is wrong with it, it is now booked in for next tuesday so they can go over the car and see if they can find the problem. Will let everyone know what it was when we have it sorted.

IDO 11S R32 Collaborator

IDO 11S R32

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Blind elk, you are a legend!!!!. I have found the problem to my 4wd nightmare. It was the throtle position sensor. This is how it all went wrong. Now my car has had a single throtle body conversion done, why I dont know, but it has been done. On the single throtle body there is no TPS, so when blind elk said to check the TPS I counldnt as there was none. What I forgot that just prior to this problem occurring and in fact the day I installed the TSC I decided to clean up the engine bay. The standard throtle body linkage was still in place with the TPS connected, I dosconnected it and drove the car, it went fine, so I removed the whole linkages. Then the problems started. I didnt even think about this, until today I was in my garage thinking about what the hell could be wrong with it, when I saw the linkage sitting on my bench with the TPS attached and thought, hang on!!!!!! I connected it up and whala, it all works perfect. I reinstalled the linkages and connected the TPS and it all works fine now! And so ends my weeks of hell, however no a massive exhaust leak from the manifolds has emerged, will this ever end!! At least I have planned on changing the turbos to N1 2860R-5, I have ordered them but am still waiting for them to arrive. I will check other forums but there is one on installing turbos right? and can it be done at home or will I need a hoist?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • joshuaho96
      R32 update from 1990's spec.

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Wideband is worth setting up if only for tuning purposes. I would not mess with the ignition system unless there's a misfire. HKS crank trigger is popular out here for the relatively easily sourced Denso crank sensor, not a bad idea to install as well regardless of power level on a standalone. Boost leak test is worth thinking about. Oil pressure sensor tied to a fuel cut isn't a bad idea either. Getting the tune figured out is a good idea. Without putting eyes on it and getting under it there's no way for us to tell you exactly what it needs but most likely you're down to the last 10% that will make a big, big difference in how happy you are with the car.
    • PotatoCake
      Has anyone put in brand new full carpet? (not floor mats)

      By PotatoCake · Posted

      Doing a refresh of my 33 and can see a few websites stating they sell the entire main carpet for our cars, but they all have generic photos which is fine, i understand they are custom made to order.  Just seeing if anyone has got it done or had any experience with this, as i would only want to do it if the fit and finish was as good as oem https://carmatsdirect.com.au/products/moulded-carpet-or-vinyl-for-nissan-skyline-r33-1993-1998-coupe https://knoxautocarpets.com.au/moulded-carpets/nissan/skyline/skyline-r-33-1993-1998/
    • MBS206
      R32 update from 1990's spec.

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Any plans for E85? If so, add flex fuel sensor.   I'd probably add in the sensors I mentioned above if the Link will support using them for engine protection. With water pressure, you need to be able to effectively set it that "If temp > X, and pressure = atmospheric, shutdown" as at running temp, you should be able to read pressure in the cooling system. If pressure suddenly disappears, it means the water went some where, and this is a quicker reaction than waiting on water temp to go up (Which, can take a little longer than you'd like, considering it now has to wait for hot air to heat it up) Oil pressure, Oil temp, both would be on my list too if you're looking to add sensors. Wideband O2. And at least one EGT sensor. If you're feeling deluxe, put in individual runner EGTs. Single EGT sensor is more so forget about a specific number, get used to "What is normal EGTs", and then keep an eye on it, if it starts going away from "normal" it's a sign something is wrong (Also, things like the tune can still start going out of spec, but EGTs may not show it, for example one injector starts running leaning, so ECU richens everything up, now 5 out of 6 cylinders are rich, and running cool, with one cylinder lean and running hotter, so it's not perfect) Then there is your other things to look at non sensor related, but you may have already done, or have underway, and that would be things like building a sump for more oil, and better oil control under high G-Forces (Cornering, brakes, acceleration). Basically, the above is worth looking/thinking about, if the ECU can do protective stuff with it, and you continue to use it how you are (Drive it to the track, thrash it, drive home, repeat once every 3 to 4 months)
    • Ty1
      Hicas ball joint install tool

      By Ty1 · Posted

      Can also confirm these work a treat for most balljoints and bushes. If you have access to a big rattle gun, they make the job so much easier and quicker, compared to using a socket wrench or shifter on the c-clamp 👍
    • djr81
      R32 update from 1990's spec.

      By djr81 · Posted

      Its sort of street but got used for circuit sprints on account of I never drive it on the road because I dont have the time to spare. So it usage was sits around for months at a time then gets driven either 50 or 250 kms to the track followed by 20 laps followed by 50 or 250kms home followed by stuck in the shed until next time. So yeah neither fish nor fowl. Just dont want to break it on the track as a preference. Hence the fairly short sensor/mod list. Probably more worried about it pinging itself to destruction more so than anything oil related.
×
×
  • Create New...