Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi just wondering a few things if anyone can point me to another relating topic or tell me off their head would be appreciated.

Car seems like it dumps fuel when put into neutral, RPM gauge goes to 0 and increases again, occasionally doesn't....so just wondering where the fuel filter is? Is this it in the photo. If so what is the replacement model? Do they have them in the booklet things or just go to repco and ask?

post-35240-1192522039_thumb.jpg

That and the fuel pump location.

What is this thing above the fuel tank under the metal plate?

As i want to redo my custom boot, and will probably put the amps above it (make shelves).

post-35240-1192522204_thumb.jpg

Will my BOV cause damage to the above side of my bonnet if it continues to damage the black straw stuff? Can this be prevented?

post-35240-1192522439_thumb.jpg

How do i get to the retractor for the seatbelt? do i have to remove the backseat; if so is there a tricky way to remove them or just unscrew the 2 bolts on the front? and does that casing just pop off? I found 1 screw that needs to be undone.

And where can i get a jack to fit in the slot in the boot, only skyline, or other model cars as well.

Cheers,

Julian

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/189520-r33-relaating-questions/
Share on other sites

-Fuel filter is to the direct left of your finger (the golden 'circle' with the hose exiting towards your knuckles). Go to repco and ask for a fuel filter for an R33 GTST. Have fun replacing it, those hoses are an absolute bastard to get to and even more bastardly to get off.

-That thing above the fuel tank is the fuel tank lid surprisingly :D Guessing those lines are related to the fuel pump, sender and whatever else requires power inside the fuel tank. Probably a better idea to work around it as the last thing you want is your fuel pump dieing and having to tear all your sound equipment out to get to it.

-Doubt it would cause any visual damage to the top of the bonnet, more likely it will bend/ break the bov trumpet thing first.

-Behind the back seat, use the search function for tutorials on how to remove the backseat (its not fun)

-I left my skyline jacks (one from r32 which fit in the slot and the 33 one which came with the car) under a friends datsun a year ago and havent found another jack yet which fits in there, most are too long when retracted so probably best bet to find someone wrecking there R33 and buy theres

Edited by Baconer

which seatbelt are you talking about?

std z32 filter will work - or ask for a the aus model 300zx turbo filter

as to your fuela dn neutral issue

A) sounds like atmo BOV causing overfueling OR

B) dirty AAC valve

what he said^^.

the fuel filter is a piddly little thing from factory. get the z32 one - its almost twice the diameter = better flow. check the DIY/FAQ section. there is a tute on how to do this.

the seat is really easy to get off. unscrew the 2 bolts holding the bottom part of the seat down, shove a large spanner, screwdriver or anything with leverage capabilities under the seat, as close to the bolt position as poss and pull up. the seat backs are just held by 2 screws at the bottom end and then just lift up and off their hooks.

for the AAC valve refer to DIY section again

  • 3 weeks later...

Well the AAC valve was dirty, bout 8months ago and i cleaned it out, bout 3 months later it started playing up again....i will look into changing the filter,,, haven''t been driving it because i have pulled the seats out.

The seat belts...the front seatbelt...the retractor does not work, the back one the spiral spring thing had a blow out, had a 2metre strip lieing in behind the back seat.

Im guessing these things have to be bought in whole...with the back one, wat about the casing cover (the one that fits in the black pillar) how do i remove this from the belt??

And the front one... how is the top pulley thing for the belt removed? Is it a click cover with a bolt underneath??? (cuz i have seen the back one)

And it seems like the belts have been changed b4 too. the dates describe it was manufactured in 2000 and its a 97model.

And can i get a recommendation on a fuel pump..are the normal ones shit? wat would be good 4 good price?

Anyone that can help me plz help...my car will stay off the road till i get the belts done.

Thanks,

Julian

Refit your std plumb-back valve, and your idle/stalling issues should go away.

I does not have one....But there is like 1000 dollars of blow off valve there, it gotta be something else its just gotta be :thumbsup:

Edited by 3340TH

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, that was one of the things we learned fast in the past with our MX5. When you drive with the top down, you are effectively standing out in the sun, 100% of the time, and not getting in any shade (because roads aren't shaded generally!). Just like standing out in the middle of a field on a sunny 27C day is a bit of a bad plan, so is sitting in a MX5 without sun protection.
    • I also just ordered some Frankenstein bolts and side mounts to fit a hard top Just in case I do find one, basically so it doesn't need to be fixed to the car with only the front latch.......and then gaffa tape to keep it in place for the RTN journey from wherever I get it
    • If your temps are fine now, you probably won't have any issues with where your vents are as they don't look right up at the windscreens high pressure area, so any differences when giving it the beans for extended happy laps would be minimal, but, they should vent heaps when stuck in traffic  Much like how that reverse cowl on my SS let "visible" heat out when stationary, but, because it was basically at the windscreen my coolant temps on the Hwy actually raised because air was being fed into it at speed (110kph), to only come back down to around 90° when I got off the Hwy And your 100% correct about the NC currently not needing vents, but, if I was to add a turbo, and a oil cooler and intercooler in front of the condenserand radiator, and then take it to the track???? It is apparently a recommend requirement if I don't want to worry about coolant or oil temp issues, but, any of the above are possible scenarios, over time As it sits now, with the triple pass radiator and stock air conditioning system, I have absolutely no issues with either temps or air conditioning efficiency, I've been basically daily driving thie car for the last month, both on the Hwy, and peak hour, bumper to bumper traffic, but, that's pretty much expected from basically a standard engine  Talking about no issues daily driving, it was 39° the other day and I was sitting in bumper to bumper traffic on the M5 and then M7, with the top down, and with the air conditioning blowing nice cold air on my feet, balls, and face, well, there was one issue, my head and arms got pretty sun burnt Note to self: leave a hat and sunscreen in the car for such days 🤣
    • I would agree, unless you need something specific to the HV motor/battery side repaired or investigated, any mechanic will be able to perform normal services, but if you prefer, maybe look for a mechanic who regularly services/repairs Nissans, the VQ engines are pretty common in the Nissan lineup.  Sorry, I can't make any suggestions, I don't live in Vic.
    • Some of them keep working fine. 9 out of 10 of them end up causing an absolute misery bleeding the system and get thrown on the workshop floor in a tantrum and never thought about again because they were never really needed and just added crap to the car that we could have done without. Same-same with HICAS, A-LSD, and various other stupidities that over eager 10x engineers thought we had to have.
×
×
  • Create New...