Jump to content
SAU Community

What Do I Need For My Exhaust

_bobo_

By _bobo_,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

_bobo_ Mentor

_bobo_

Posted
Posted (edited)

Ok ive decided ill just get custom exhaust made

i just need to know what to tell the guy from the exhuast shop

im planing on buying most of the parts myself and just get him to do the piping (2.5inch)

whats better straight through or mandrel bent?

Muffler- APEXI N1 <--trying 2 find one cheap or HKS Super Dragger Muffler if no luck.. its Xforce lol

HI Flow Cat - dont know what size ..2.5 or 3 inch

Resonator - he can provide

piping - he can do

is this all i will need???

Updated in post on 22nd Jan 08

Edited by blk_sz
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/189530-what-do-i-need-for-my-exhaust/
Share on other sites
  • Replies 50
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Kozeyekan Proficient

Kozeyekan

Posted
Posted

X-Force is a mixed bag. I have had some people say it's great, others say it's tinny. It's a personal thing.

OK, what you will need:

1. dump/front pipe. Preferably split. You can usually buy these on here in the group buy section. Use the search function and look for dump pipe or something similar.

2. Cat converter. Group buys are on here occasionally, or try one of the traders. From memory BOS did both these and the split front/ dump.

3.cat back. If you're ordering the Apexi N1, it'll have everything else you need. You can easily do the installation yourself. Check out the DIY forums for how. Also, consider ordering through www.nengun.com. It's the cheapest I've seen, though it can take about 3-4 weeks to get to your door. I bought an HKS silent from there for about $650 delivered. A quick glance and I can see they have this there:

161AN001 Nissan ECR33 RB25DET, BCNR33 RB26DETT Pipe 85mm-95mm 1 PCS OD 115mm AU $ 384.43 AU $ 624.70 (Delivered)

there's Blitz, HKS, Nismo, etc. there also.

If you're wanting him to custom make one, mandrel bent is best. It's impossible to go straight. the channel built under the car is bendy, so the pipe there must be too.

_bobo_ Mentor

_bobo_

Posted
  • Author
Posted

ive got a GTS so i dont kno..dont want to spend to much

i got quoted 600-700 and i said ill buy the cannon muffler its from a Local Exhaust Centre in Rowville

i really want a HKS hi-power 409 but they could be $$$$$$ and i want 2.5inch piping

Kozeyekan..hks silent...what size piping is it....i dont want anything bigga than 2.5 inch and like a 3-4inch tip for muffler

Eug Grand Master

Eug

Posted
Posted
Ok ive decided ill just get custom exhaust made

i just need to know what to tell the guy from the exhuast shop

im planing on buying most of the parts myself and just get him to do the piping (2.5inch)

whats better straight through or mandrel bent?

Muffler- APEXI N1 <--trying 2 find one cheap or HKS Super Dragger Muffler if no luck.. its Xforce lol

HI Flow Cat - dont know what size ..2.5 or 3 inch

Resonator - he can provide

piping - he can do

is this all i will need???

you've already started a thread on which muffler to buy, there's no need to keep making a new one. not to mention i can see 2-3 threads on the front page alone. exhaust systems are so variable, everyone has a different setup preference to sound, power, looks, height, legality, emissions, so there isn't one ideal setup. bar a set of extractors and a sidepipe. a search would yield more and better results.

also to get your understanding right; straight through and mandrel bent aren't comparable terminologies.

it's mandrel bent and press bent; for the record mandrel bent is preferable.

straight through means exactly that, nothing in between - straight through (i.e. no cat).

you will need flanges and gaskets, exhaust shop can provide that.

the cat will be dependent on what size piping you get.

have a serious think about your questions before you post them up, half of them can be thought out logically or found within the forum, or even speaking with your exhaust guy! i mean he is the one putting it all together afterall.

GTS4WD Grand Master

GTS4WD

Posted
Posted

First: As eugene said.. Mandrel.

Mandrel bending is when they bend the pipeing without crushing it in the middle of the bend. Get a drinking straw and make a 90 degree bend in it to see what I mean.

Second: The dump pipes you see in the group buys. I am not sure if these will fit an NA. If they do. They would be too large and you will loose volumetric vacume.

Third: As said before.. X-FORCE WILL GIVE YOU CANCER OF THE EAR.. too much droning and shittyness. I know.. Dad has one.

Thourth: HKS supper dragger systems are, again, 3" so their too big. Plus their about $600 cat back from what I have seen.

Fifth: Cat. If your not making more than 200kw or revving the engine very hard and high, you wont see many gain. Save your money

Sixth: Can we start a sticky on NA exhausts? It seems as though every second post here is on exhausts.

Greg Veteran

Greg

Posted
Posted

The sticky thread is a great idea

I do have a vested interest here, but you should seriously just buy my non turbo HKS Super Drager system. By the time you pay for the labour required to weld the custom system together and purchase all of the components separately, you won't have much change from $700. Then you don't know if it is even going to flow very well. Sound characteristics are unknown. If you're lucky and all goes your way - you will have a nice exhaust system.

Alternatively buy mine and you are guaranteed to be increasing power and torque as much as HKS possibly could - without all the noise and drones so often associated with a custom system.

As a final attempt to sell my exhaust to you - I will offer my labour free to install it for you. You drive to my place and drive away with the exhaust system installed. I've done plenty before - it is an easy job :P

HackerX Community Regular

HackerX

Posted
Posted
1. dump/front pipe. Preferably split. You can usually buy these on here in the group buy section. Use the search function and look for dump pipe or something similar.

Split dump/front isn't going to do him much good on a N/A :P

Price up some extractors :P

Depending one what kind of sound/look you're hoping to achieve, you're looking at basically two styles of exhaust:

a) Extractors -> Cat -> Front Muffler -> Rear Muffler (all with 2.5" mandrel bent piping)

which will produce normally a sound not much louder than stock

or

b) Extractors -> Cat -> Resonator -> Cannon (with 2.5" mandrel bent piping)

which will be a hell of a lot louder (louder than turbo cars, which is something to take into consideration)

If you're just looking for the sound without any performance gain, you can forgo the extractors and cat, and just get a cat back system

GTS4WD Grand Master

GTS4WD

Posted
Posted
louder means faster, well that's what i tell all the 16y/o car slarts

AND RED GOES FASTER!

Nismo sticker = 20% increase in torque and power

Mugen sticker = 25% increase in torque and power.. (Dont laugh!.. I have seen several Nissans with Mugen stickers!

Alternatively buy mine and you are guaranteed to be increasing power and torque as much as HKS possibly could - without all the noise and drones so often associated with a custom system.

LOL!.. shit greg!.. you have been trying to sell this for yonks!.. Should of posted it to me when I asked! :cheers:

And side note.. as I said before, dont bother spending money on an aftermarket cat. It will not do anything on a low power NA application!

And as before.. dont bother with a dump pipe..

R34TRK Collaborator

R34TRK

Posted
Posted

hey guys i just brought a r34 25GT and wanta custon exhaust on it

mmy idea is to make it sound as close to a rex as possible. im thinking of getting an 2.5 from the engine and a 4 incch tip...

what you guys recomend????

help!!!

R33 S2 Collaborator

R33 S2

Posted
Posted
hey guys i just brought a r34 25GT and wanta custon exhaust on it

mmy idea is to make it sound as close to a rex as possible. im thinking of getting an 2.5 from the engine and a 4 incch tip...

what you guys recomend????

help!!!

ermm why do u want ur line 2 sound like a rex? :O

GTS4WD Grand Master

GTS4WD

Posted
Posted
mmy idea is to make it sound as close to a rex as possible.

Rip the block out.. put in a flat six.. from a liberty or something.. or.. get $125,000 Porche flat six with a zorst..

In all honesty.. its not possible mate..

Rex's sound as they do because of the engine being a flat 4 cylinder design apposed to a straight six.

When i dropped in my RB25DE it sounded like a V8 WRX before all the carbon and all the settled shit was cleaned out of the engine.. mmmm.. that was nice..

Another possibility.. *DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK!.. IT IS ILLEGAL* you can either disconnect part of your zorst system, or drill holes through the piping.. sounds awesome.. but REALLY REALLY LOUD! and mean..

R34TRK Collaborator

R34TRK

Posted
Posted
Rip the block out.. put in a flat six.. from a liberty or something.. or.. get $125,000 Porche flat six with a zorst..

In all honesty.. its not possible mate..

Rex's sound as they do because of the engine being a flat 4 cylinder design apposed to a straight six.

When i dropped in my RB25DE it sounded like a V8 WRX before all the carbon and all the settled shit was cleaned out of the engine.. mmmm.. that was nice..

Another possibility.. *DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK!.. IT IS ILLEGAL* you can either disconnect part of your zorst system, or drill holes through the piping.. sounds awesome.. but REALLY REALLY LOUD! and mean..

thanks guys!!!

  • 2 months later...
davib Collaborator

davib

Posted
Posted

hey guys,

exhaust should be a sticky for sure

mixed feelings with exhaust topics,

i can never read about a definite answer

i do however, have an apex'i n1 exhaust system

i like it, cause it sounds like a turbo r33

i've had a turbo s2, had to sell

got a n/a at a bargain

now the n/a with the apex'i feels gooddd, fast..

but seriously when im at... say 2000rpm on 2nd gear

its goess... but once i get to 3000rpm it doesn go as harddd

like it platues... if u guys understand me?

issert because im use to the boost in the turbo?

or am i loosing power ?

1st gears sounds awesome...

just when im driving normally then GIVING it.. its a bit weird

ok goodnight guys!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      R34 power steering

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      49719 is the cooler loop. Right at the front, LHS of that diagram. Return line from rack (LP side) goes to cooler loop on RHS front of car, then back under engine and returns to bottom of tank. 49717M is feed from tank to pump. HP line out of pump is thick rubber, followed by the hard line that runs down to crossmember and runs in parallel (but opposite flow direction) to the LP return line. Nothing goes anywhere near the firewall or interior of car. The closest they get to that is the connections on the rack.
    • drifter17a
      R34 power steering

      By drifter17a · Posted

      Thanks, plan is to drain all fluid tomorrow and do smoke test to find out the leak.   Appreciate your help and want to understand how the system work. So cooling is achieved by the long loop not any rad? The diagram seems to suggest it connects to somewhere inside the cabin and I thought that is a cooler inside firewall. If you look at the diagram it seems to show it connects to something inside firewall. I tried chasing it but not easy unless I take loads off   i am confident pump is good as fluid goes in and it gets soft( steering) but as soon as I turn engine off , loads of bubble come to surface and overflow. When engine is on , fluid level is below minimum but when off it shoots off and thinking it is sucking air in. I suspect aluminium pipe may have a crack line or whole   smoke test with no fluid should be a good start and if needed will remove the pump   In addition, the one going under the engine bay is high pressure line and one directly connecting from pump to resorvoir is return/ low pressure?   finally I searched and suggestion is to use dexron 2 but that is discontinued so bought dexron 3 as all research suggest it is compatible and shouldn’t cause any issues/ blow seals. I bought two liter of dexron 3 motul atf
    • GTSBoy
      RB25 S2 Idles but doesn't want to rev

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Don't worry about. Just don't try to drive hard enough to make boost and you'll be fine.
    • GTSBoy
      R34 power steering

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yes. This has already been said. It is a loop of hardline in front of the radiator. Because.... the pump is on the LHS and the steering rack hydraulic connections are where they always are on a RHD steering rack....on the RHS. The high pressure line goes down under the engine, along the crossmember, like it does on all Skylines. Don't just throw expensive braided hoses/other kits at it. Work out what is wrong and fix that.
    • Trilbyte
      RB25 S2 Idles but doesn't want to rev

      By Trilbyte · Posted

      Still got the afm on the intake, clamps are shut tight, only loose hose is the one that goes from the j pipe towards the IACV, since it's next to impossible to find a factory hose and the barbs are different sizes (I'm still using clamps on this hose to try and help it seal on the iacv side) I've ordered parts to make up the hotside of the intercooler pipes, I'll plumb it in and see what happens in a few days I suppose The turbo's internally gated, can I just unscrew the tension rod to let the gate open?
×
×
  • Create New...