Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 82
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Ive never seen a red 260RS before. THought they only made them in black or white.

Nice car - big $$$ eh. I like the whole neat but incredibly functional look - its not too over the top. Big fan!

I'll be curious to see what it ends up rolling on a dyno after run in, should be some awesome figures!

Im in the middle of running my 260 in at the moment, half way through a 3000km run in! So frustrating having to drive it like a grandma when you know what you have under the bonnet, the price of build ups is a good reason for self control though even when you pull up at the lights next to something you know you can kill thats stirring you up!

I havent gone as crazy as this build up, but have still done enough to be looking at 320-330awkw when its finally run in!

Nice work tho! :ninja:

  • 2 weeks later...

soooooooo good, would love to go for a drive in that thing :nyaanyaa: . gona have to settle for something that looks the same but only goes half as fast. unless i win lotto than i can fly you over here to work the f*@k out of mine to :worship:

post-32337-1195027073_thumb.jpg

soooooooo good, would love to go for a drive in that thing :no: . gona have to settle for something that looks the same but only goes half as fast. unless i win lotto than i can fly you over here to work the f*@k out of mine to :wub:

Holy shi!tballs that looks familiar...

Dyno20071114_.jpg

Awesome build man.

If my 4G63 in an S13 project falls through, or the S13 eventually bores me, I am highly contemplating putting the hole lot into my Stagea. Yeah, I know, 4 banger, but 4G's have a heap of torque. Will have to decide that when I eventually put the engine on the dyno.

I am using an R34 manual RWD box anyway, so its just a matter of bolting up the R34 GTR box and away I can go with AWD and all :rolleyes: (some electronic work obviously)

Btw, nice fitment on the GT-C's :/. What size, width and offset? Thats the fitment I am after with mine.

Edited by AlexCim
I'll be curious to see what it ends up rolling on a dyno after run in, should be some awesome figures!

Im in the middle of running my 260 in at the moment, half way through a 3000km run in! So frustrating having to drive it like a grandma when you know what you have under the bonnet, the price of build ups is a good reason for self control though even when you pull up at the lights next to something you know you can kill thats stirring you up!

I havent gone as crazy as this build up, but have still done enough to be looking at 320-330awkw when its finally run in!

Nice work tho! :(

3000km of pussy footing a new engine is not going to do it any good my friend.

Here, have an interesting read: http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

interesting conversion AlexCim....

Interesting indeed.

I have some pictures up on my MySpace. www.myspace.com/shiftyunicorn (yes, that myspace name was inspired originally by my stagea :P)

Some ideas have changed through the build, but its getting there. Engine/Gearbox getting mated over the next few weeks.

3000km of pussy footing a new engine is not going to do it any good my friend.

Here, have an interesting read: http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

That guy raises some interesting points, but there is a lot inside an engine that he doesn't address so I would be a little wary of it myself.

ie - what about the preservative coating on the bearings in the mains and big/little ends

I wouldn't want anyone spining my brand new engine under hard load when there is still a lot of pre-assembly lube floating around in the oil either, not to mention the case hardened skin on new camshafts, bearings on rockers (or pushrod ends for all the knuckle draggers out there), freshly cut valve seats, stem seals etc etc etc

just my 2 cents anyway.

That guy raises some interesting points, but there is a lot inside an engine that he doesn't address so I would be a little wary of it myself.

ie - what about the preservative coating on the bearings in the mains and big/little ends

I wouldn't want anyone spining my brand new engine under hard load when there is still a lot of pre-assembly lube floating around in the oil either, not to mention the case hardened skin on new camshafts, bearings on rockers (or pushrod ends for all the knuckle draggers out there), freshly cut valve seats, stem seals etc etc etc

just my 2 cents anyway.

Hey guys,

After spending a massive amount of cash rebuilding the motor im more enclined to listen to the guys that built it, there are set procedures of certain revs etc that i am following to bed the motor in correctly. It isnt a good idea to put a brand new motor under massive load from the word go unless its a drag car and your going to rebuild it every week. Its not the first time ive had to run a motor in and i believe following a run in process is the safe way to go about things. There are obvious signs of seeing a new motor on a dyno for tunning purposes that show that a new motor appears "tight" and wont rev hard, so making it rev hard will inevitably cause some sort of damage or premature wear. Where as running the motor in under lower load to allow things to settle in makes alot more sense to me.

Im happy to wait and follow the mechanics process, that way if something goes bang i have someone to take it back too. Ive done the ligaments in my ankle so i wont be able to drive it for a few weeks unfortunately!

When i finally get to do max power tuning ill let you know what it comes up with!

Cheers

Ben

Here, have an interesting read: http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Interesting indeed.

for sure

I ran in my bike engine rebuild with his methods

edit: mixed in with my engine builders recommendations...............

...........

I wouldn't want anyone spining my brand new engine under hard load when there is still a lot of pre-assembly lube floating around in the oil either, ......

hence why you drop the oil / filter after 20kms, then another 50kms, then another 100, then a few hundred more, etc

  • 2 weeks later...

All I know is when the ex head mechanic of Nissan Japan (not a dealer, Nissan itself), along with the ex head engine designer and builder for Nismo tell me to run it in that way, that is what I do.

Period.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok glad you clarified on the frenchy’s options , I was worried about if my oem hoses would fit the new compressor or not if I just bought the bracket/compressor kit ,  didn’t realize they also sold a larger full conversion kit. Hmm may just go oem in that case then to make it easy only because I plan to sell this car to upgrade to a 32 GTR or 34 GTT.
    • Right, here's a video of the basic operation at least.  This is what you can expect day to day when you turn the car on and it boots from standby.  The only thing from a media point of view I haven't gotten working is for it to autoplay plexamp when it turns on from standby (it works from cold boot) but that's more of a plexamp problem as it will autoplay other music players.  Also attached is my one stray cable.  It's part of the screen's wiring adapters but there's just nowhere for it to go in my car.  I've just now done a bit of research and found a matching port on a 2010-2014 head unit with BOSE.  Mine has no BOSE so that's that case pretty much closed I think.  Plugging in the Infiniti AC panel basically did nothing for me, so that's a dead end as well.  Next port of call is to mess with this CANBUS module and see what I can find from it.  I found this resource containing the DBC files for a 2010+ G37 : https://github.com/icecube45/Dash_InfinitiG37/blob/master/InfinitiG37.dbc I'll now have something to go from when I try to extract my CANBUS data so I can see if the HVAC Mode, Fan Speed, Temperature, etc. match and also the gear shifter position.  It's a pretty big assumption that it's just mismatched CAN signals but considering all the devices in the CAN network are talking to each other (AC can be fully adjusted just with no info on screen) it might be a safe one.  I will report back WhatsApp Video 2025-02-26 at 12.49.10.mp4
    • Thanks for that Paul.  Do you think if I posted a picture you'd be able to remember where it went? 
    • Sorry Duncan, I didn't get a notification for the replies.  Thanks for responding!  It's a full Android device, but does allow you to use CarPlay/AA as well.  This is the one I bought from NaviRS on AliExpress: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006368602668.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.111.59aa1802JDzQ0E - the 2K 8G-256G CAM variant but it seems to have gone up by £170 since I bought it!  My purchase was £307.14.   It's not the fastest thing in the world but performs perfectly adequately.  It stays on standby unless I disconnect the battery and let it power down, then it's just a fairly standard Android bootup time from cold.  The DSP Equaliser is very nice and made the standard stereo system sound pretty decent compared to the stock screen.  Perhaps I can take a video of it when I get a sec. It *allegedly* supports the reverse camera, but I'm yet to get that working.  It has options for reverse cam (a camera unit can be bought separately) or 360 cameras (also bought separately).  To be fair it doesn't seem to detect that the shifter was put into reverse but I'm working on a theory about this as well.  At the moment I'm going without which is a bit annoying considering the car is an absolute canal barge but so far I haven't caused any damage I'll grab a picture of the wire I'm missing later today when I can get outside.  My theory, by the by, is that not only is the head unit different, but the CANBUS network has different signals for the different years.  I think this because I have a spare AC panel from a newer Infiniti G37 (as opposed to my Nissan panel) which wouldn't control anything except the volume when I had it wired up with the stock system.  I'm going to throw it back in and see if the screen will respond to it.  I've just ordered an arduino CANBUS module so I can have a look at the signals going around the car and see if I can spot anything.  I'm thinking if I can work out what it's expecting vs what it's getting I might be able to translate and relay the signal back but so far just a theory anyway. I also found this on my travels, so far the only one that specifically matches my car: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002822934280.html?spm=a2g0s.imconversation.0.0.33433e5fgttovi If you look at the picture of the before, it has the card reader slot, and the picture of the head unit is exactly the same as the one pictured in my original post.  I asked if they sell the cables separately but sadly they won't.  I didn't want to just buy this one because it's a super old Android version and only dual core - likely slow as hell. 
    • As above, you did refill the coolant and burp the system before running it again didn't you?
×
×
  • Create New...