Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm sure i've heard in the past someone say that skylines need an adapter plate after the turbo to cause back pressure , is this true ???.

The reason i ask is that scince i have fitted my new set up , when ever i drive my car really hard and stop ,it suddenly will stall. Under normal driving conditions....(ie - like miss daisy) the car drives and stops ok, though the idle is very lumpy.

I'm now running a T70 top mount and external wastegate and a straight through 3" system (no cat or middle boxes) and wondered if i needed to cause some back pressure by fitting a reducer plate between the turbo and downpipe. The car picks up extreamly well and goes like stink so just wondered

cheers

mike

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/189729-back-pressure/
Share on other sites

Do you have a plumb back bov?

What computer are you running?

and no you do not need a plate for more back pressure.Back pressure is the devil!

amen, back pressure is the devil.

Could be your Ventmo BOV, or it could simply be the tune. are you able to list your mods?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/189729-back-pressure/#findComment-3418691
Share on other sites

thats what i always thought, back pressure is the devil , just could have sworn i heard/read about it on a forum somewere. I'm running a HKS bov , but i never had this problem until i fitted the new tubo set up, so would'nt have thought that to be the problem. The idle was always lumpy with me using the tomei poncams , but its now worse with the new turbo. I'm using the Power FC and TBH i know i will need a remap for optimum performance, but just wondered if there was anything i could do to stabalise the idle speed a bit before i take it.

cheers

mike

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/189729-back-pressure/#findComment-3420872
Share on other sites

yeh, ive now changed the set up inc turbo and greddy inlet manifold. The cars running the power fc so needs a tune up, but i still need to get the splitfire coilpacks and 660cc injectors before i take it for a remap, otherwise i'll have to fork out twice which is a lot of money (2 remaps).

heres a pic as it is now :-

mycar006.jpg

mycar005.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/189729-back-pressure/#findComment-3420990
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Personal experience. Those f**kers burn. And are actually a PITA to put out. Next time I walk down the back, I'll snap a photo of what the inside of the bonnet looks like when that thing ignites. PS, powder fire extinguishers are useless on that stuff too as it's fibrous and when it ignites, it starts to pull apart. And you end up just blowing powder through a sieve effectively.   Like the big thing is, if it's fire resistant, it's job is to stop what burning? The METAL above it? It's just to try keep heat off the bonnet paint work.
    • Oh man, sorry, $60.00000000... 😛
    • That's more or less what he meant. What it really means is that you do not have to go full crazy on the build. Don't need the best oil pump, expensive rods & pistons, big cams, etc. You can upgrade whatever you want instead of using stock level items, but you don't have to. Having said that - any time an RB is opened up, if anything is getting replaced, I think the opportunity should be taken to do all the sensible upgrades. Pistons, rods, pump, etc.
    • February update 🙂 We managed to get the very last 1/18th "Extra Scale" cars stock available from bookstores in Kyoto. These are actually the last ones and will not be restocked again! Hachette Collections Japan have not decided on a release date for these or other models in the series, so for the time being these are all there are available new.  These are showing up on Yahoo auctions at inflated prices already (especially the Celica and NSX) so get yours now at a very reasonable price before they disappear! Stock quantities: NA1 Honda NSX - 1 left: https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/1-18-extra-scale-1990-na1-honda-nsx 1973 Toyota Celica LB 2000GT - 2 left: https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/1-18-extra-scale-1973-toyota-celica-lb-2000gt 1968 Mazda Cosmo Sport - 2 left: https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/1-18-extra-scale-1968-mazda-cosmo-sport 1970 KPGC10 Nissan Skyline 2000GT-R - 2 left: https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/1-18-extra-scale-1970-kpgc10-nissan-skyline-2000gt-r
    • When you say basic rebuild, you mean an oem rebuild?
×
×
  • Create New...