Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'd like to know if the front and rear diffs are the same ratio difference between GTR and GTS4? I recall the GTS4 rear was about 4.3 and GTR rear was 4.1

What about the front diffs? If they are 4.3 and 4.1 respectively, this means a GTR box will fit, yes?

What other differences are there, are the ratios the same or different?

Any other info I may need to know?

Cheers

Front and rear diffs are 4.3 in a GTS4. GTR boxes do fit into a GTS4 with no problems, final drive ratio gear needs to be changed tho from the 22 tooth GTR one to a 21 tooth GTS4 one... or something like that.

No. The ratio of the front diff is the same as the ratio of the rear diff. Otherwise, the front and rear axles would be driven at different speeds.

What funky means is that the speedo drive gear needs to be changed (as I have just done after I put a Stagea diff set @4.083 in my GTS4 - GT-R drive gear replaced GTS4 drive gear)

GT-R = 4.111, GTS4 = 4.375

Stumbled upon this a little while back.

Gearbox ratio's.

Note the RB26 gearbox has longer gears everywhere. :P

You can work out the diff ratio via the speedo drive tooth count.

As others have said 21 = 4.363 (gtst) & 4.375 (GTS4) and 20 = 4.11 (GTR etc)

20tooth is also used for the 4.08.

post-382-1192836388_thumb.jpg

Interesting. Can you remember seeing a parts code on the outside of the gearbox referring to what model it is?

Bit of a pain getting under my car without throwing it up on ramps.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 😃
    • You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
    • You talking about the ones in the photo above? I guess that could make sense. Fixed (but flexible) line from the point up above down to the hubcap thingo, with a rotating air seal thingo. Then fixed (but also still likely flexible) line from the "other side" of the transfer in the hub cap thingo up to the valve stem on the rim. A horrible cludge, but something that could be done. I'd bet on the Unimog version being fed through from the back, as part of the axle assembly, without the need for the vulnerable lines out to the sides. It's amazing what you can do when you have an idea that is not quite impossible. Nearly impossible, but not quite.
×
×
  • Create New...