Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys n gurls,

Ive got myself a blitz SBC i-d III and struggling to get it to work correctly, ive wasted $50 in fuel trying to get it to boost over 9psi!!

Ive got no idea why it is not boosting to a 10psi level which ive consistantly set it for?! It ussually hits 7.6psi - 7.8psi then if I turn off the controller it hits a nice 8.9psi by itself!! Im so very confused why this is happening??

Was I meant to remove anything to let it boost higher than stock?

If anyone can help out would be greatly appreciated! Yes ive checked for leaks, and yes the boost lines are designed for boost and not stretching a great deal under presure?!

Help me!! Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/189753-blitz-sbc-not-reaching-set-boost/
Share on other sites

Have you got it on Auto or Manual mode?

Try moving the gain up a little, I think standard it is 5, it can go a lot higher, but it is sensitive, move by 2 at a time. If it doesn't change anything by 10 then I'd look at your plumbing. Try using manual and setting the gain to 8 - 10 then moving the level or whatever it's called up to 60 or 65. Only move in small steps.

I trust you have completely removed the plumbing from the original boost controller?

I use Manual. Setting = Level 60, gain = 6.

Auto set to 10psi, usually boosts to 9.8 or so, but not as quickly as manual mode.

intake is colder when your car is hence why it boosts harder.

Even in auto set at about 12psi the stupid thing wont boost past 9psi.

I will give the manual setting a go again, however I can reach 9psi with a setting of 7 Gain and 17ratio, go figure?!

I think it must be the length of my plumbing, its mounted in my air box (solanoid that is) so I guess the trail back to the controller is a lil far but I didnt think it would cause it a problem?!

May I add it only hits 9psi on top speed run 140km/h for eg.. and 8.9 turned off just in 1-2-3rd? to about 80km/h??

Edited by DECIM8

My stock boost sensor was still connected, when I removed it then engine light came on like its meant to when you install these little buggers, perhaps this was skipped?? because we were expecting it to light up :S

Will it be ok with the sensor removed? gauges still work which is found interesting.

Edited by DECIM8

Firstly I have an R33.

I already had a manual bleed valve fitted which was not plumbed into my factory boost controller. So although the solenoid id still electronically connected it is not plumbed into any piping. My twin solenoids from Blitz are mounted on the strut tower next to the factory one using one of those bolts on that bracket. Then it uses the stock plumbing points (R34 intercooler) for the solenoid, with the one going to the original blocked off.

The boost on the dash on the R33 is read from the back of the plenum to a electronic boost sensor near the brake cylinder. So it will read even when the solenoid is disconnected.

My idea is to raise the ratio to 40 or 50, with gain at 6 or 7.

Using manual .. I pull hardest for some strange reason when im setting it at about 17 ratio and 6-7 gain which I find rather strange for people pulling a good 60ratio like above!!

Its just not working for me .. its like the stock system is still running .. maybe its been installed incorrectly.

Using manual .. I pull hardest for some strange reason when im setting it at about 17 ratio and 6-7 gain which I find rather strange for people pulling a good 60ratio like above!!

Its just not working for me .. its like the stock system is still running .. maybe its been installed incorrectly.

hmm, that doesnt sound right i run around 60/70 ratio for 16psi but i am running a largeish aftermarket turbo. also the more gain you use the quicker/harder the boost will come in but the more likly it is to spike

  • 2 weeks later...

Yeah I worked it out mate, the wire had been frayed snapped by the last asshole who sold it to me (G.A Garage) dont buy anything from him btw.. fixed and now boosting hard...

Thanks for all the help

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok gotcha, so one post to fpr  another to bov  and I have the mishimoto boost controller and a link g4+ so I’d just have the tuner set it up properly. For the last two from plenum post throttle to  ecu/ boost controller, I know that I have a hose coming from the ecu that I was confused about so I assume that’s what connect to the boost controller from the ecu? And then the last is just from plenum to boost controller then to wastegate?
    • From there, it was just a quick electrical check, prime the oil and start her up Which, is not what happened. 1. Bloody seppo Aeropro battery holder. Not only was it too tall for the battery (which I'll forgive them for, I have another battery the same nominal size that is taller than Neil's one, but the bracket is a fixed height so the battery was spaced up) But the thing that really shits me is the hardware to hold it on requires a 7/32 Hex key. WTF. No-one will ever be able to remove or install the damn thing without a hex key they don't own 2. Kill switch no longer worked once the console was installed. Neil mentioned above he had to adjust the length but it no longer cleared the console once installed. Sorted. 3. Suspiciously, the brake light holders were hanging in the boot with no globes. Sure enough the stopper on the brake pedal was missing so they are always on unless the kill switch is activated. Will pick one up tomorrow (turns out 32 and 33 don't use the same stopper) 4. All that sorted, I turned on the kill switch, turned the key to ACC. Nothing. Turned it to IGN. Nothing. Checked some fuses and found the main IGN in the boot was missing which improved things once it was replaced. Now ECU and dash lights turn on with IGN but still no fuel pump. 5. Turned it to Start....ECU on, no fuel pump, no starter. Plus the voltage dropped straight to 9v.  I suspect the starter is f**ked but am going to have to work through it all and see what is happening, really looks like more than one issue. Does anyone have the R33 fuse box key with the circuit it sources from (eg BAT, ACC, IGN, SRT etc) and supplies? I can find a translated list showing Amps and circuit without supply circuit, and I can find supply circuit without Amps and target circuit.
    • 3rd time lucky, the AAC is now all plumbed up after getting some final fittings All set up under the plenum of maximum access
    • OK, so the weight has been bugging because it was really low. I did it again today and got a more believable answer at 1246 without driver And with a 93kg driver I'm pretty sure the car was still slightly on the quickjack last time meaning the full weight was not on the scales  
×
×
  • Create New...