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What Std Nissan Turbo's Match Up


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hello all.

i know it is a bit of a noob question but i really cant be stuffed trawling through all the turbo threads to find out the following question.

which standard nissan turbo's are the same output as the std series 2 stagea as well as being the same fittings etc., but with steel internals?

for instance does a snail from an r33 rb25 fit up the same? or perhaps and r34gtt etc?

and was wondering if the turbo from a dirty old holden VL is the same fitment but with steel internals as i have been told?

only reason i ask is i am wondering how long my original turbo will last if i wind it any further than the 12p.s.i i have it set at currently and have been told that a VL turbo would be a direct swap and has steel innards.

if that is true i can get hold of a pretty good vl unit for $150 andwould like to know if its gonna fit is all.

cheers oxford

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The VL turbo wont be roller bearing, nor will it be of comparable design as far as aerodynamics go. The trims are probably diferent on the housings and wheels too.

The turbo you have should last provided you dont have a crap boost controller that causes a boost spike to go over the 12psi. Around 14 is the absolute limit and above that your in the destruction zone.

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i am running a turbosmart E-boost2 unit so it should hold no probs i just wanted to know the things outlined in the iniitial post but also how long would the wheels last if i were to run at 13-14psi?

also would i have to change anything to do with the wastegate settings or the blowoff valve etc?

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what are the relative differences in the units listed above if someone can answer?

for example are any of the steel internals as opposed to ceramic?

do they shift the rpm/boost band around either higher or lower, and if so which ones and which way specifically?

all this is in case mine goes tits up and i need to replace it quickly to return car to service, as iwould like to be able to have one ready to go if need be, and it would be a bonus if i didn't need to worry bout it smashing again if it were to be steel internals etc.

also wondering what a high flow would be worth to get done if i didn't need to do changeover?

cheers oxford

Edited by oxford1327
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more or less, the R33 and R34 have ceramic turbines which are sensitive to temperature (and load). i presume much the same for the others however there are slight differences in the turbine housings. VG30 (single turbo) and R34 are the same size but compressors are different. R33 is slightly smaller turbine but same comp as the R34. (btw there are a few factory metal turbines but most are ceramic). the slightly larger turbine housing makes them a little more efficient and they MAY make about 10kw more due to slightly lower exhaust manifold pressure but maybe a hundred or two rpm slower to spool.

if you are going to change on the cheap, buy an R33 for a direct swap on a series 1 stagea or R34 turbo for a series 2.

generally prolonged loads over 12psi will lead to ceramic dust in the cat disease so leaning on the turbo harder is raising the risk. it might last 3 yrs it might last 5 minutes.

if you are looking to change then look at GCG hi-flows or HKS GT-RS as the cheapest (ballbearing) alternatives and onwards and upwards from there. remembering your old turbo is probably worth about $300.

Edited by wolverine
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arent r33 turbos identical to s1 stageas?

i would be interested to try out a VG30det or VQ30det snail.

-Ryan

The s2 R33 turbo (and engine) is what we get in the s1 Stageas, and the R34 Neo engine is what goes in the s2 Stageas.

When my turbo blew on my s1, I replaced it with an s1 R33 turbo, which has steel wheels. I noticed that it didn't spool up quite as fast, not go quite as hard, but I've never bothered to check if the wastegate actuator had been fiddled with previously on the original one that was on my car.

The blown one is (obviously) on the right, and the replacement is on the left:

BlownTurbo001.jpg

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