Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

Just finished reading the 'What should I get first?' thread: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/t45218.html

But what I'm asking is what I should do next, or what would you do next if you were in my position.

Okay, I've got a s2 R33 gtst, so far it has:

apexi fmic

3" exhaust (split dump pipe, 3" cat, 3" cat-back)

hd clutch

spitfire coils

k&n panel filter (tried running a POD, but saw better results with std airbox + panel)

I personally was thinking maybe a PowerFC or even a SAFC2. Or perhaps just a manual boost controller. However, if you think there are mods which will be give me equal or even better gains than these, then I'd prefer it, as my insurance co. (HBF) does not allow any sort of boost controller or replacement/piggyback ECU.

So... If you were me, performance wise what would you do next. Money isn't really an issue. I dont mean that as in I can buy anything. I mean it as in the more expensive the item is, the longer I will wait (and save up) for it.

Thanks heaps :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/189893-need-some-advice/
Share on other sites

or get a 10psi wastegate actuator from an r32, and get your standard computer remapped (i think dr drift can do 33's now), that way your insurance company will never know. also i would look into the suspension and brakes

Edited by Green_s13

I would get:

1) A new insurance company

2) New shocks/springs if not already replaced

3) Upgraded brake pads, maybe rotors (just on the fronts).

4) If you did 1), then whatever you like from here :) I'd say ECU/chip. You're in the same spot as me, only I've done 2) and 3) and boy do they make a difference.

Thanks for the replies so far guys.

Without a PowerFC/SAFC, i can't really expect to get more gains KW-wise, is that right?

I was planning to do the brakes/suspension anyway, so at this stage I'm really just interested in what would give me the best gains kw-wise.

yeha you're pretty stuffed if you can't get a powerfc or Tunable ECU unless you want to get a remap. BUt they aren't exactly as easily tunable as a powerfc.

www.justcars.com.au

www.shannonsinsurance.com.au

lol I don't know if they are the right links but you get the idea.

Yeah I think I might settle for an EBC + powerFC. I hear they are hard to come by (PowerFCs) as they are discontinued, i know someone who is selling it without the hand controller. This is still okay right? As I wouldnt change the settings on the controller anyway.

I took the car down to the tuners last week and I was told it was running 1 bar of boost (about 14 psi if im not mistaken) - how is this possible if my car has no electronic or manual boost controller? not sure if it has anything to do with my car running dangerously lean (it has since been fixed).

(Excuse my noobiness as I'm still trying to get my head around all of this)

Also, would you guys recommend putting in an aftermarket turbo in before an ECU. (Basically want to hold off getting an ECU for as long as possible due to insurance complications)

you'll be able to syphon more power out of a After market ECU and stock Turbo than a bigger turbo and stock ECU.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Honestly, for a daily I would gladly rock a Camry. The more disposable the better. People drive horribly out here and road conditions are awful.
    • Verify it's going into each of the 4 gears in normal acceleration, make sure the torque converter locks up over ~65-70 kph or so at low throttle opening. If you ease into the throttle at those speeds eventually you should get a "gear" between 3rd unlocked and 4th locked. It should downshift eventually if you floor it at 65 kph too. Get some Matic D ATF and drain the pan, check for signs of sadness in fluid and drain plug magnet. Top off to the correct level afterwards. If the transmission is worth saving you can drop the pan on a second drain and change the filter while you're at it. These are not complicated transmissions, at least compared to modern stuff.
    • A seat I find stupidly comfortable to sit in is the one in a friend's Merc Race Car. It even has the huge wings that wrap around your head. Best ever. Only issue is climbing through his scaffolding he put up in the doorway of the car... Ha ha ha. I sat in that seat for a couple of hours doing wiring. Another stupid comfortable seat I find, especially if my back is aching, is my OMP fixed back bucket seat too. I'll just sit on it when I'm exhausted in the garage sometimes to relax!
    • I just got off the phone with Dean from Vosta in Brisbane. They are the ones that do the replica seats and they have a shop full of seats for my to try out. Lovely guy.  I haven't decided whether to go genuine or replicas, I'm leaning towards Genuine at this point but who knows.  Also thinking the STRADIAs are the way to go VS the GIAS since they have a lower hip edge and would be easier to get into. Don't really like the idea of arm rests on the models to the right of this diagram either, maybe they can be removed?
    • From my own first hand experience, keeping power for a fun Street able skyline down at a responsive low 200 wheel KW, is the best. It makes it super drive able through the twisties, you're not just smashing mass wheel spin, or only able to open the throttle for a split second before being at absurd speeds. That said, plenty of people like being morons at more than double the speed limit on public roads and hence are happy with 600whp and seeing 200kmh fly up frequently and fast. Also, at that low 200, a GTR can still do a decent quarter mile, and with a bit of fancy  clutch work (foot, not the parts) can still beat many many cars in a traffic light gp, even in the wet.
×
×
  • Create New...