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You're right though, Teflon is really slippery. The problem is though, that while you want lubrication you don't want thinks to be too slippery. Your Syncros rely on a small amount of friction to do their job - which is to sync the gear speed to the shaft speed so that you can smoothly slip into gear.

The reason why many people have problems with N70 is that it makes the Syncros TOO slippery, which means that it doesn't sync quickly enough, and hence your gearbox ends up crunching.

You're right though, Teflon is really slippery. The problem is though, that while you want lubrication you don't want thinks to be too slippery. Your Syncros rely on a small amount of friction to do their job - which is to sync the gear speed to the shaft speed so that you can smoothly slip into gear.

The reason why many people have problems with N70 is that it makes the Syncros TOO slippery, which means that it doesn't sync quickly enough, and hence your gearbox ends up crunching.

I agree with IONOS, the reason so many people are having problems with notchy gearchanges is that the synchro hubs can't do their job properly as the oil is making the synchro hubs too slippery.I spoke to the main rep for redline oil in australia before changing my gearbox oil and he of course recommends their oil without question and also told me that if the notchiness was still present after using smurfs blood [the blue stuff] change it and use their MT90 instead. I am not going to use it anymore as I have reliable info that it does too good a job in gtr synchro boxes not sure about other vehicles.

Unfortunately we on this forum have been led to believe that because it's such a good oil and it is, that it suits all applications, but from what I know it doesn't suit our application.The people on this forum use their vehicles for many different purposes and therefore not all info applies to everyones needs, for instance racing people pull their gear down a lot more frequently than street people either do or want to do,they have their own mechanics, workshops, or do most of the work themselves, so if they make mistakes it's not such a big deal, we street users however want a racing car performance on the street without the maintenance racing teams put into theirs, and our vehicles to stay working forever with the least degree of expense and downtime, and some of us street users abuse our cars beyond belief and wonder why they break and then curse the expense involved when they do.

My advise is when it comes to gts or gtr gearboxes to use a conventionally good oil like VMX80 and let the synchro's do their job to allow smooth gearchanging and not look beyond the mark for ultra great things that will supposedly allow our cars to function better than manufactured spec even if we kill them with kindness, like using smurfs blood will do if you choose to use it.Of course many of the gearboxes are already well worn that are spoken about on this forum so changing back to VMX may not produce a better gearchange and therefore people will run back to the lesser of the two evils and call me liar, as there are many stages and symptoms of wear and tear on gearboxes, therefore I qualify my statements by saying that all would be wise to use a good conventional oil with manual gearboxes right from new or re-coed,but if you have a worn or abused gearbox use what works best for you, just don't lock yourself into the smurf blood way of thinking, talk to gearbox repairers like I have they fix the same problems everyday and form their opinions on what they see not what they hear like we do.

The real fix for notchy unabused gearboxes in our models is to pull the box out when the clutch needs replacing and pull the gearbox down and either bead blast the synchro hubs to bring back the required friction and use them again depending on wear, as many who know have done, to save the immediate expense of new hubs ,or replace the hubs with new ones if they are too worn ,but in both of these senarios use a good conventional oil like VMX80 and enjoy trouble free non abused changing for years to come.Grey Pearl Out.

Yep the above is pretty much correct. You wouldn't and shouldn't use redline in a new gearbox. That said though, it's great stuff for bringing new life into a gearbox on it's last legs, just don't expect it to be a permanent fix.

what about moly bond workz a treat in our prod sports fd rx 7

Info like that is not relevant to what we were discussing,Skyline gearboxes, and tends to lead young guys with skylines up the garden path when we all want to help each other with tried and true ways to stay on the road.I'm curious, what criteria did you use to come up with that assumption?Was the gearbox notchy before you tried that product, worn, or giving you trouble and on whose recommendations did you make the decision to use it.

I have a lot of faith in what the Japs design and the oils they recommend,we chose to own the Skyline because of their engineering skills,so to me if these other products were necessary we would have been given a tube in the glovebox don't you think,just my opinion though.Cheers Grey Pearl. :blush:

Edited by grey pearl

+1 Redline Shockproof Lightweight.

Just used it in a R32 GTR box.

It previously would crunch 4th and 5th if shifting @ high RPM or WOT, without fail.

Lazy syncro or something.

Lost a few races due to this :P

Now it's fine!

No more double clutching @ 7,000rpm

And no more dropping out of boost!!

It's awesome, love my smurfs' blood :D

+1 Redline Shockproof Lightweight.

Just used it in a R32 GTR box.

It previously would crunch 4th and 5th if shifting @ high RPM or WOT, without fail.

Lazy syncro or something.

Lost a few races due to this :laugh:

Now it's fine!

No more double clutching @ 7,000rpm

And no more dropping out of boost!!

It's awesome, love my smurfs' blood :(

I accept that for you this seems to be working so go with it, nevertheless I disagree with blanket use of this oil for the reasons outlined in my previous posts.Cheers Grey Pearl.
  • 1 month later...
  • 3 months later...
Same go's here gotta love the smurfs blood! Use to crunch 4th all the time Now its fine also the gears feel just like butter in my r33gts!

I have a 94 R33 GTSt 5sp manual. Just changed gearbox oil with Redline Lightweight Shockproof. 3.5 liters.

When I run the car at 3k rpm (5th gear) for 15 + minutes, the "smurfs blood" pours out of a tube located on the front portion at the top above the clutch assembly. DOES ANYONE KNOW WHAT IS GOING ON WITH THIS? I haven't seen any posts on this issue.

I didn't overfill...it started dripping out of the filler plug and I stopped, installed the filler plug. Has anyone had this occur before?

Yep the above is pretty much correct. You wouldn't and shouldn't use redline in a new gearbox. That said though, it's great stuff for bringing new life into a gearbox on it's last legs, just don't expect it to be a permanent fix.

Did you mean to say "You wouldn't and shouldn't use Shockproof in a new gearbox"?

MT90 is ok right?

I have a 94 R33 GTSt 5sp manual. Just changed gearbox oil with Redline Lightweight Shockproof. 3.5 liters.

When I run the car at 3k rpm (5th gear) for 15 + minutes, the "smurfs blood" pours out of a tube located on the front portion at the top above the clutch assembly. DOES ANYONE KNOW WHAT IS GOING ON WITH THIS? I haven't seen any posts on this issue.

I didn't overfill...it started dripping out of the filler plug and I stopped, installed the filler plug. Has anyone had this occur before?

The 5-speeds will have a bit of a breathe but provided you haven't overfilled the box then it's nothing to worry about.

I put in 3.5 liters. What does "a bit of a breathe" mean? Honestly, I don't understand that. I've owned it for 4 years and have changed the gb oil once before. Went with Mobil 1 75W90 at that time...no "breathe". Now I change with Redline Lightweight and it is pouring out of the vent tube.

Thanks...

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