Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys ive been doing alot of research into the RB30DET build and i was chatting to my mate about it, who owns a honda integra dc5 type R. As he is planning to turbo it we go to talking about compression ratios, as i am planning to go with a 8.5:1 ratio i asked him what he was going to do. He reckons he can have a ratio of 10:1 and still run 25psi through a gt35r, at first i didnt belive him but then i did some research and found that the guys in the states are actually doing this on PUMP fuel (93 octane for them) and i was wondering how or am i missunder standing something?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/190067-compression-ratios/
Share on other sites

The guys in the states must be using rocket fuel or something. sure anything can be done if tuned correctly but man thats one damn potential explosion your mate is going to have there... My rb30det uses around 7.8:1 and i am running 30psi happily with around 500rwhp.

Engines with less compression are more forgivable on user errors :laugh:

Hey guys ive been doing alot of research into the RB30DET build and i was chatting to my mate about it, who owns a honda integra dc5 type R. As he is planning to turbo it we go to talking about compression ratios, as i am planning to go with a 8.5:1 ratio i asked him what he was going to do. He reckons he can have a ratio of 10:1 and still run 25psi through a gt35r, at first i didnt belive him but then i did some research and found that the guys in the states are actually doing this on PUMP fuel (93 octane for them) and i was wondering how or am i missunder standing something?

Sure it would be possible with suitable valve timing and sufficient intercooling, and a low enough exhaust back pressure.

People say 10:1 CR Oooooh that can never work, but if the intake valve does not close until the piston is half way up the bore, then it is really only 5:1 compression ratio isn't it ?

Have a real close look at the specifications of a Mazda Miller Cycle engine.

Factory compression 10.2:1 supercharged to 17psi, and it runs on crapy 93 octane.

This is a mass produced factory engine, with full warranty, that can be thrashed by idiots in tropical mid summer heat without any reliability problems at all.

http://www.mazda.com.au/articleZone5.aspx?articleZoneID=3817

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Solid update, got all the downforces now.  You going to be running aus time attack again? love the jacking solution, spend the dollars on what makes it go fast is best way.
    • Back in January, I noticed my car felt noticeably weak. I had the injectors cleaned, which seemed to solve the problem -- until now. Recently, the car suddenly lost power again while driving. Suspecting the injectors, I brought it to the mechanic. He recommended replacing them entirely, saying the current ones were getting unreliable and fiddly to work with. I could not find a direct replacement for my current injectors. The closest match I found were 440cc injectors. This led me to look into the possibility of upgrading -- and of course, that would mean remapping the ECU. From my research I found: The OEM Part numbers are 16600-72L20 and 16600-72L21 Both the RB20DE and RB20DET use the same 270cc injectors. There are much better options out there over the old OEM injectors. Nistune could be a viable tuning option. While the RB20DE isn’t explicitly listed on their site, the ECU is essentially the same as the GTS-T version - just with a different map. The ECU code on mine is listed as supported. One concern is finding a tuner who works with Nistune. Aftermarket ECU like Haltech and Link, but this would be the most expensive choice (and possibly overkill for a mostly stock RB20DE) I admit that I am very new to the tuning scene and would appreciate any insight or recommendations regarding this.   These are some SAU links where I got some of my information from for reference: https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/380324-rb20de-injectors/ https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/477396-factory-270cc-injectors/  
    • The inspectors are not forensic by any means but if you forge your documents and/or badgings on vehicle parts and are found out, the consequences are just far bigger than if you just run illegal parts. And their job quite literally is to cross reference what parts you got installed and what your papers say you got. Something as silly as your suspension being 1mm too low will fail you. Nonetheless I asked if someone knew the damn pipe and I certainly did not ask for smartassery or underhanded comments, no idea why you need to be told this. Great way to waste both our time.
    • As useful as you explaining what forgery is... But then again, I wasn't aware your inspectors were also forensic experts and inspect nameplates on each component to confirm everything is original. They must inspect roughly 3 cars a year at that rate. You're right though, my comment doesn't help you in anyway, so I'll go talk to my wall now. Cheers. 
    • Say that to the guy that is going to fail your inspection or tow your car for illegal exhaust modifications. If you have anything else useful to say, please go tell your wall.
×
×
  • Create New...