Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys!!

my r33 GTS-T is running rough on idle.. its about 650-700 rpm idle.

when driving it... its doggish till about 4000rpm! still aint that great... you can here

this hissing and ticking from the turbo air being sucked ?! is that normal?

i mean its boosted @ 8-10psi atm and the guy who tuned my car to 10psi said its running pretty lean on the

bottom end of things... but got better up the graph.

when checking n regapping my spark plugs about 2,000k ago i noticed a few WHITE tipped plugs?! rest where okay.

also i have had the WRX symtom come n go randomly...

could this be coils? or a few dodgey spark plugs??? fuel??

i still get g00d Km's 'last 2x tanks have been 450km'.

but when i am booting it atm... starts kicking out smoke grey/blue/whitey, the more its booted the more grey/er it gets

i had a comp test done 2000k ago and was 170psi ish or sumfing wif maybe 5psi difference across the board!!

could i be fuel pump? injector/s? coil/s? CAS? AFM?

i mean i aint ever changed the fuel pump... and i have had the car 4#,### km

PLEASE help... its RAWR and its also backfiring sooo bad... like if 1 chamber aint denotating or sumfing...

=(

NOTE!!! and also around the first few injectors or pipes there i can here a HISSING 'LEAK'?

Edited by Mr_GaZZa

Thanks Iono's i'll check that out 2nite ...

umm Nissan had a look during my lunch break... and i just been told its spark plug / coil problem and that its miss firing

the blue/white smoke smells sweet... like fuel

=(

Thanks Iono's i'll check that out 2nite ...

umm Nissan had a look during my lunch break... and i just been told its spark plug / coil problem and that its miss firing

the blue/white smoke smells sweet... like fuel

=(

That's also possible, but generally spark plug/coil problems won't cause an issue with idle. Normally you'll only see problems under boost.

Check your pipes still first as this won't cost you a thing. How long since your plugs were changed?

sounds like a combination of a few problems.. hissing sound would be a boost leak for sure, it it's coming from around the injectors make sure the injector O rings are seated in the manifold properly, if it smells like fuel at all around there this would probably be your problem..

the "WRX symtom" is more than likely a loose or dirty plug on one of the coils, or perhaps the transistor pack (if it's a series 1) ontop of the cam cover ornament..

blue smoke is usually oil, but if it smells like fuel then you probably mean black smoke, which would indicate the engine is running rich, which also points back to a boost leak

hope i helped,

marcus :laugh:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This was a huge help.  We followed the steps,  although shifting into 2nd was actually into 3rd for us,  and 1st was into 2nd ( steps 9 and 11) .  The long flash was the 4th flash.  So shift solenoid A is possibly the culprit.  Is this inside the transmission itself? Or is it accessible by just front the pan? Or is it bolted to the outside of the transmission?  Thanos for your help everyone
    • Can you enlighten me on your best practice regarding these hoses? I don't wanna make the same mistake if you already got a better solution.
    • I have some silicon hoses already, for example engine to watercooler. But yeah, I get the sentiment. The lower intercooler silicon hose is drippy too, despite not being very old. Does anyone except Nismo make these same lines out of rubber? Long term I think they'd be the better replacement, especially since the car won't live as hard a life anymore as in the past nor be driven as often.
    • I know most issues are just age related. But for example the turbo oil drains, there is dash adapters for these and you can just make a braided teflon line for them and (probably) never have them leak again. Also not terribly expensive. Can you even get the factory hardlines from new? Or are they repairable if they break?
    • I know it'd be much much easier with the tool. I hope I can find one that won't take 3 weeks to get to me an isn't a "Asian models kit" that has tons of (to me) useless adapters for a load of cash.   It's a summer project/fun car. I do wanna enjoy it, without endless downtime over and over. So yeah I would even go and buy an engine crane + stand to save myself the trouble of hard to reach or unreachable places going bad later on. Would also be a good opportunity to put on a Fluidamper, renew the mains seals and stuff like that. I have some money on the side that I can use for that, what I wouldn't want to or be able to do is let everything be done by a shop or have my engine completely rebuild right now. I intend to do most of the "doable" jobs myself. Pulling an engine can't be that hard, can it?
×
×
  • Create New...