The Build Has Begun!

[IDO 11S R32]

Hi guys and girls my build has begun. Today I started the build and any assistance on how to do some things would be greatly appriciated. I was going to leave this for a while but it developed a massive exhaust leak so I started early. Today I stripped the whole front of the car down as I will be building this at home. Car: R32 GTR forged internals, stock head. I just bought a Trust bar and plate cooler, Trust oil cooler and relocation kit, cam gears, 700cc sard injectors, nismo fuel pressure reg, Trust hard pipe kit, Blitz blow off valve. Car already has HKS dump pipes and full Trust exhaust with a EMS ecu, however I will also be changing this to a power FC DeJetro, this is because the car is currently running a single throtle body with map sensors. I will also be purchasing an Apexi DeJetro induction kit. The turbos I was going to run are the Garrett 2860R-5, I have these on order at CRD. The car will be tuned bu the boys at CRD and I will post up the results when all is completed, aiming for 350awkw.

Now if anyone can give some suggestions on how to easily remove the turbos??? Some of the bolts are HELL to get to. I have also found that my exhaust leak was caused bu two of the manafold studs breaking? any idea how to remove these from the head? I have removed the intercooler and all piping.

If anyone has cheap turbo gaskets which will fit my application, also after manifold gasket for exhaust, and water lines to turbos as mine are quite worn. Can still be used but will replace if I can find some good ones.

And so it begins

[sewid]

Good luck.

You'll no doubt have many a bloody knuckle and make up at least 5 swear words before you finish.

[zertek]

shweeeet. im tuned in.

[gt-ahhh!]

that is very promising. it never ceases to amaze me where people find the money for this sort of thing! i mean youre looking at $30 000+ here right? hmm well actually im not really sure, youre obviously going to save on labour.

best of luck though! i dream of the day when i will own a mean godzilla.

[fob2nv]

good luck with the build and keep us posted.

[IDO 11S R32]

good luck with the build and keep us posted.

Thanks for all the comments guys, but can anyone help with some info on how to get the turbos off this thing, How the hell do you get to the bolts where the manifold bolts to the head???? cant get to the lower bolts, and getting the oil lines off?? Thats another story. Yes I will definatly be making up some sware words. Im on holidays at the moment so will be hitting it hard. I will post some pics of the progress tomorrow. Had an easy day today, but tomorrow??? This will probably be me. I am estimating the total build cost to be 35k including the price of the car, This is what I am trying to stick to. I want to see what I can build for 35k. bought the car for 18k, oil cooler $900, Splitfire coil packs, $600, intercooler $1300, hard pipe kit $600, Turbos, $2450, power fc DeJetro $1250, APexi intake kit $500, oil catch can $220, inj $600, fuel press reg $125. I have already done the brakes, $500 (Pads and machine disks), Depending on finances will also do cams? but this requires alot more work so I havnt decided yet? already bought a N1 oil pump as well, so might do cams and oil pump at the same time. Cams $900, oil pump got for $250. SO I'm still well within budget, but also spent $600 on stereo, and want to do a custom leather interior witch I have been quoted $2700. Wish me luck!!

[gun32gtr]

heres my thread ya might find good stuff in there

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/t1...amp;hl=gun32gtr

[gun32gtr]

is the motor out is it?if not i think ya will have to pull it out to put that oil pump on.so why not wait till motors out then pull turbos of

[Adriano]

To put an N! pump on an r32 motor properly is an engine out job, with machine work. Why are you getting rid of the EMS and fitting a PFC?

[IDO 11S R32]

I thought the N1 was a direct replacement? I was hoping not to have to pull the motor out. I have the whole front of the car off. Am changing to the PFC because the EMS is an old piece of S$%T, it can only be tuned with the hand controler and cant control ignition. It is spliced into the stock ecu and I believe it only acts as a piggy back controling fuel only. So a PFC will be the easiest most reliable option, or so I have been told. I am mainly going off the advice from Jim at CRD. I told him a power figure I wanted, he told me what I needed to do to get there. If it is too difficult I will leave the oil pump and cams for now. I am not sure what oil pump is in it, It may already have an aftermarket pump as the motor was done before I purchased the car, Like I said it has forged internals, so if the builder was done then they should have done the pump anyway.

[NXTIME]

With a build and power aim such as this, never assume anything, Check and double check to see what yo have and what you will need. Personally, I would use an aftermarket oil pump. Otherwise, keep the revs moderate and you can still achieve 350awkw.

[nfi]

Make sure you get some cams the stock ones are very restrictive at that sort of power level. I would be surprised if you get to that number without them.

You'll also want cam gears so you can can give the engine some more overlap. Think of an engine like an air pump you need bigger cams to let more air in for a given engine revolution and cam gears to time the air getting in and out for maximum efficiency (power not emissions though )

[IDO 11S R32]

Well from I have learnt the 2860-5 are good for 400awkw, so I am hoping with a soft tune and not too many revs it should comfortably make somewhere between 330awkw and 360awkw. I will speak too the boys at CRD when it is being tuned,but will tell them to keep the rev limit to 8500rpm, or even 8000rpm. The way it is now, it revs to 9000rpm but its pointless as it stops making decent power after about 6. It now makes 235awkw, but no rev limiter which is why it has seen 9000rpm, it has caught me off guard a couple of times when I have smashed it in 1st, I would prefer to keep the revs a little lower as I am after reliability, I will be driving the car every day.

[IDO 11S R32]

The boys at CRD said the cams would not make much difference at top end, would just help the midrange and bring the turbos on boost earlier. It does have a set of adjustable cam gears (Trust). My mate who is helping me put the motor together, (mechanic) said if I do the cams then should also do the oil pump at the same time, he believes he should be able to do the oil pump without removing the engine. But now I would like to conform this. Does the engine need to come out to do the oil pump? If the engine comes out then I will also to the sump extension, but then this starts to get real expensive, and Im not cashed up for this just yet. Anyway will do some more research and see how I go.

[Bliksem]

Make sure you fit a crank collar before fitting the N1 pump!

[IDO 11S R32]

heres my thread ya might find good stuff in there

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/t1...amp;hl=gun32gtr

Thanks for that, great thread, so can you confirm what your final specs are? I take it the car is not back together yet? Let me know what power figure you get. If you check out ignition latest dvd there is a story on an R32 GTR with the same mods as what we are doing, only difference is it has an extended sump and baffle kit, as well as restrictor plate in the head. These are only for reliability though and dont do anything for outright power. He made 400awkw, and with a good suspension and tyre package he ran a 10.2 q/m. He races this car in tarmack rallies with numerous wins. Awsome car, I couldnt believe the spec sheet when it was comming up on the screen, exactly what we are doing. and with the 2860R-5 turbos. Its the Dutton R32 GTR. Check it out if you get a chance.

[GTS4WD]

if you want reliability.. I would definately be looking at headwork.

Why not port and polish the head? It will make more torque at lower RPM. This will help you come on boost quicker and harder. Not to mention it will make it easier to acheive your power figure.

Dont neglect your head. Theres alot of air entering and leaving the engine. Use it to your advantage!

Dont so much aim for a set power figure. Try ensure that you have a wide power band to play with.

I seen too many cars pushing 300kw what make awesome power for the track/strip, but are so un-streetable its silly. By the time you winde the engine up to were it makes power you have already shat all over the speed limit and your licence is out the window.

Personally, a 250kw gtr with a massive powerband, response and torque is a hell of alot more fun than a 350kw GTR with a narrow power band that needs to be well into boost to be create a buzz (but by then your already over the limit).

Thats my 2c

How much boost do you think you will be running?

[Public Enemy]

yeah mate, from memory i had to take the sump off to get the oil pump off. Sump off = motor out.

and yeah crank collar for sure.

[IDO 11S R32]

If thats the case then I will leave the pump for now, as with the cams, yes GTS4WD, you are exactly right, a good broad powerband will be alot better on the street then a short burst of massive power up top. But from what I have been told the turbos I have choosen, 2860R-5 are a good all round turbo, which depending on who you talk to are on par/better/worse then the HKS25/30. Which was the origional turbos I wanted, CRD advised that the 2860-5 are a better turbo. Right now I have the R34 Turbos which are T25's ball bearing turbos, they are quite good and make excellent power down low with a really good midrange, but they die up top, now I have driven my mates r33 GTR with stock turbos, T28's and you can feel the difference. The R33 is a little more laggy, but when they come on they pull much stronger. Now i am told that the 2860R-5 are only a little more laggy then stock T28 Turbos but come on much harder. I could still go for the 2860R-7 which is slightly smaller, should flow about 300awkw but with same lag as stock turbos or slightly less. I dont want to touch the head just yet as the finances dont allow. I have spent quite abit of money on bolt on parts, I want to fit it all and see how it goes, If I am not happy or want to take it further then I can look at other avenues like doing the head. But at this stage I dont want to push more then 350awkw as CRD have stated that I shouldnt push it past this with the stock head and sump as it can cause problems, so in reality a power target of between 320-350awkw is what I will be aiming for, so I could use the -7 for this power level but I dont want to have to change the turbos again down the track if I want to take it to the next level which will be 400awkw. Obviously to achive this the motor will have to come out and be checked properly with all the right parts being added. But as most people have said at that power level it will be really expensive as I will also have to consider suspension/tyres/brakes/gearbox/diffs/driveshafts etc... So I am taking it one step at a time, this being the 1st step..

[IDO 11S R32]

I dont know if anyone remembers but I am suposed to be racing my mates TT Supa at the end of the year, looks like he is pulling out though, last time I spoke to him he said he was looking at buying an R34 GTR. I said, "So you've woken up to yourself and gonna get a real car." He didn't like that and insisted that his Supra would kill my GTR, I say, bring it to the track then and lets race! I dont think he will, I embarresed him last time, running a 12.8 @ 106mph, he ran a 13.7 @ 101mph or something like that, and that was with slicks, I was running shitty cheap faulkens!! With my car in full street trim. When I'm done I will be going to the track (with or without him) and will let you guys know when I do.