The Build Has Begun!

[gun32gtr]

Thanks for that, great thread, so can you confirm what your final specs are? I take it the car is not back together yet? Let me know what power figure you get. If you check out ignition latest dvd there is a story on an R32 GTR with the same mods as what we are doing, only difference is it has an extended sump and baffle kit, as well as restrictor plate in the head. These are only for reliability though and dont do anything for outright power. He made 400awkw, and with a good suspension and tyre package he ran a 10.2 q/m. He races this car in tarmack rallies with numerous wins. Awsome car, I couldnt believe the spec sheet when it was comming up on the screen, exactly what we are doing. and with the 2860R-5 turbos. Its the Dutton R32 GTR. Check it out if you get a chance.

final parts list ended up:

gt2860r turbos

hks cam gears

o44 intank setup

powerfc with hc

os twin plate

600x300x120 cooler-bad mistake as it was a prick to fit

31/4 inch titanium catback

guttered old cat

21/2 to 3inch stainless fronts

jjr stainless dumps

tomei 600cc squiters

brake pads etc

stayed with stock afm meters

greedy oil cooler and relocator as well

stock manifolds just matched ported them

just gunna run a boost t for now as funds have died of bit..

im getting hitman to tune mine and i was talking to him and he reckons 330awkw will bne our aim on approx 20psi...

ive only got stock bottom end still so i dont want it to die just yet...

[TommO]

Sounds about right. I've got everything you've got Kane, except I'm still using factory cams / cam gears / stock cooler / stock manifolds, and I get 290kw @ all four @ 21psi.

Edited October 22, 2007 by TommO

[IDO 11S R32]

Didnt get a chance to do anything today, but here are a couple of pics, sorry they dont show much, just how bloody hard it is to remove these turbos!

[gun32gtr]

oh its hard so i got me mate who is a mechanic to do it

[IDO 11S R32]

Thanks for the encouragement, I'll get there though!

[SECURITY]

cant you pull the motor out with the turbos still on?

edit: just read that you're not pulling the motor out at all.

to get the pump on you'll need to pull the motor out. you'll also need to take the head off to get your oil restrictors sorted (if you haven't already).

you'll need to do them now if you havent already as the n1 pump will pump around 25% more oil at any given psi.

Edited October 23, 2007 by SECURITY

[gun32gtr]

i have read that somewhere and it makes turbo removal eaiy...as id expect

[GTS4WD]

CRD are good blokes.. After seeing some of their work at Autosalon, id say, trust them, their good blokes..

Best car I have EVER seen on the Dyno was Stacey's Silver R32 GTR with work and tune by CRD. Even better than the Pac boy's 400kw Rotors!

I hope your going to be doing suspension and brake work after this.. At least braided brake lines, brake master cylinder stopper and some suspention work. Or else the car wont be able to take the corners around the track. Definatelly worth looking into.

[T04GTR]

need any bits when stuff brakes let me know.. see sig

[IDO 11S R32]

The car is my daily driver, I have 3 young children so do not have time for track days, unfortunantly, I do however race gokatrs, so I get some enjoyment that way. I just want a good fast street car. I will take it to WSID after it is completed but only to see what it will do, I will probably only go there once. It is going to be a street car, I will be leaving the oil pump and cams for now, when I go that next step I will make sure I have the finances to also do the sump/brakes etc.. No point pulling the motor out to do a half assed job. So for now it will be, Turbos, injectors, boost controler, fuel pressure reg, fuel pump, Power FC, cam gears, intercooler, oil cooler, inercooler pipe kit and oil catch can. The car already has some of these parts on it, I have just done the brakes fitting DBA cross drilled rotors and Bendix ulitmate pads, the car also has TEIN coilovers, so suspension is good (for the track) a little harsh for the road if you ask me though. Will see how much power it makes like this and then decide if I am going to take it further, If I do it wont be for a while, as it will call for alot of saving!

P.S: T04GTR, what parts can you help me with?? know where I can get manifold studs?

[SECURITY]

nissan have manifold studs for around $4 a pop.

[Swiper the Fox]

Thanks for the encouragement, I'll get there though!

how much will you pay me to come and do it...ive done this job (in car) many times

[WPN-O33]

hey mate, if you hang around CRD for a while you will come across Paul & Staceys^^^^ gtr i think you will like their setup, gets me excited every time ive heard it start up!

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/t183511.html

[IDO 11S R32]

how much will you pay me to come and do it...ive done this job (in car) many times

How much do you want? But I dont just want you to do it, I want to learn how its done, thats why I am trying to do most of the work myself. I live a stones throw from WSID so dont know if it is too far out of your way or not. You tell me what you charge and I'll think about it. . Like I said I am trying to stick to a budget.

[wrxhoon]

Didnt get a chance to do anything today, but here are a couple of pics, sorry they dont show much, just how bloody hard it is to remove these turbos!

If you find it hard to remove the turbos, you are going to find it much harder to fit the new ones back .

if you have the right tools its not hard at all, however its time consuming, you will swear and loose plenty of skin.

You will need 3/8 drive sockets with a uni to get to the manifold nuts, its easier if you undo the 4 nuts ( tubo to manifold) then undo the turbo brackets from underneath . lower the front turbo then get your extension with the socket between the manifold and the dropped turbo, undo the front manifold, pull that off then pull the front turbo off . The rear one is easier once the front is out . Of course before you even undo the turbo you will need to undo the oil and coolant lines, a warning here, DONT twist then in anyway , if you do you will it very hard to start the banjos when re-fitting the turbos . Make sure when you re-fitting the turbos ( exacly the reverve order) you start the banjos of oil and coolant lines by hand and only use tools once you turn then a couple of turns. Don't cross-thread them.

You say you want a street car, why go for the bigger turbos then???? If i was you I would use the smaller ones, better still I would use HKS GTSS, you think they are much more expensive but they are not if you take in to account the gaskets you will have to buy for the Garretts !

What ever you decide to do good luck with it ...

[IDO 11S R32]

If you find it hard to remove the turbos, you are going to find it much harder to fit the new ones back .

if you have the right tools its not hard at all, however its time consuming, you will swear and loose plenty of skin.

You will need 3/8 drive sockets with a uni to get to the manifold nuts, its easier if you undo the 4 nuts ( tubo to manifold) then undo the turbo brackets from underneath . lower the front turbo then get your extension with the socket between the manifold and the dropped turbo, undo the front manifold, pull that off then pull the front turbo off . The rear one is easier once the front is out . Of course before you even undo the turbo you will need to undo the oil and coolant lines, a warning here, DONT twist then in anyway , if you do you will it very hard to start the banjos when re-fitting the turbos . Make sure when you re-fitting the turbos ( exacly the reverve order) you start the banjos of oil and coolant lines by hand and only use tools once you turn then a couple of turns. Don't cross-thread them.

You say you want a street car, why go for the bigger turbos then???? If i was you I would use the smaller ones, better still I would use HKS GTSS, you think they are much more expensive but they are not if you take in to account the gaskets you will have to buy for the Garretts !

What ever you decide to do good luck with it ...

Thanks for the advice, I think I said that the HKS are not that much more expensive when taking into account the cost of the gaskets, I am still unsure about what turbos to go for, Like I saidm I have ordered the -5 but they are taking forever to get here, from what CRD have told me they are a good all round turbo thats not too laggy but with a strong mid and top end. I can get a set of -7 cheaper then the -5 and they will be suitable for the power level I am after, but they will be at their peak and if I wish to go further down the track, I will need to replace the turbos again, now the -7 will have less lag and a better mid range, but will fall short up top. I really dont know . At the end of the day I would like a turbo thats on par with the 2530 HKS, CRD have advised me that the -5 is a better turbo and would suit my needs, they are the experts and thats their opinion, they have done nothing wrong by me so far and I feel they have looked after me, they did an excellent job in tuning my car and fixing a number of small problems with no stuffing around, sothis has influenced my decision. But still abit confused, and now it makes it harder as the car is apart and needs to be put back together ASAP!!

[gun32gtr]

paul also interested in how much ..

[IDO 11S R32]

Sorry how much what?

[dead32]

how much will you pay me to come and do it...ive done this job (in car) many times

Think he means for this ^^

mate have a read of the oil control thread for rb26. its pretty much a must these days when building rb's

[wrxhoon]

Thanks for the advice, I think I said that the HKS are not that much more expensive when taking into account the cost of the gaskets, I am still unsure about what turbos to go for, Like I saidm I have ordered the -5 but they are taking forever to get here, from what CRD have told me they are a good all round turbo thats not too laggy but with a strong mid and top end. I can get a set of -7 cheaper then the -5 and they will be suitable for the power level I am after, but they will be at their peak and if I wish to go further down the track, I will need to replace the turbos again, now the -7 will have less lag and a better mid range, but will fall short up top. I really dont know . At the end of the day I would like a turbo thats on par with the 2530 HKS, CRD have advised me that the -5 is a better turbo and would suit my needs, they are the experts and thats their opinion, they have done nothing wrong by me so far and I feel they have looked after me, they did an excellent job in tuning my car and fixing a number of small problems with no stuffing around, sothis has influenced my decision. But still abit confused, and now it makes it harder as the car is apart and needs to be put back together ASAP!!

Its your call but for a street car with a stock engine and cyl head the GTSS'S are just about right in my opinion . The little Garretts are about the same too. You will find the mid Garretts (-5) will be laggy with your set up . I have GTSS on my car , unopened engine, turbo back exhaust, EBC (15 psi boost), power f/c and Nismo 550 injectors, everything else stock. Very responsive car but still good for 11.8 1/4 mile @ 117 mph in a car that weighs 1560 kg + driver and fuel =1660 kg.