The Build Has Begun!

[IDO 11S R32]

Yes I know about the oil problems, but at this stage my security is an oil cooler to increase oil capasity and an oil catch can to minimise blowby, I will also be keeping revs moderate, and I do not bounce my car on the rev limiter and will seldem be doing hard launches as this is usually not possible in peak hour traffic. Remember this is a daily driver which I will take out for a weekend squirt once in a blue moon. If the engine shits itself travelling at 60kph in 5th gear on the M4 in morning traffic then the car must really be a shitbox, and I think they are abit stronger then that. Even now with the two stage boost controler set at .6 bar and 1.1bar. When driving it spends 95% of the time at .6 as I dont feel the need to run the higher boost when driving to and from work, its just nice to have it there when I want to fry some rubber!!!!

[IDO 11S R32]

Yeah I hear what your saying, thanks for the input, this all helps me, I am considering the -7? which are probably similar to the GTSS, however again if in 12 months I want more, then I can pull the motor out do cams, head, sump, and run the -5's to 400awkw, whereas the GTSS or -7 will be at their peak efficency now! I am a power junkie, I am addicted to HP, I lov everthing fast and always want more, so I can see myself upgrading as soon as the finances allow, so this is why I and leaning towards the -5, but I do understand what you are saying, for what I am doinf NOW, the GTSS or -7 will be the best choice of turbo right NOW. But I am thinking ahead!

[SLIPPERY]

i reckon your thinking is very reasonable. Im in (or was) a similar train of thought. I ended up going with the GT-SS on an unopened motor but was tossing up between the -5s and 2530s. I went with my choice because i wanted to enjoy the car the way it was/is until it needed a rebuild and which also packs a big mid range punch with almost instant response.

Once i need a rebuild and want to get more serious, then it would be an easier task of buying the bigger turbos and using them to their full potential. The time i sell the GT-SS for around 2k, then im only a little more out of pocket to upgrade. Remembering the turbos will already be off for the engine build...so, saving money on turbo swap labour. (or my own time).

Its no big sweat if you decide to go either way if you look at it like that. both are win-win

[IDO 11S R32]

Yes, I am actually cruious about how the -5 perform (from owners who are currently using them), I have been told that they have only slightly more lag then stock but with a huge top end, Like I said, I currently have a pair of ball bearing T25s, they come on boost instantly from almost any rpm, I love that, its really good to drive, BUT, I can feel the difference when I drive my mates R33 GTR, he has stock turbos, you can feel the extra lag but when they come on you can feel the extra torque. I am worried about loosing responsiveness but I want it to pull hard, Im all about in gear acceleration, I dont like smashing it off the line as I believe this destroys your drive train (even in a GTR), but in gear acceleration, when your cruzing along at 60kmph, and put your foot down and the car hauls ass like a bat out of hell, thats when you know you've got power. Right now I have just about no lag at all, but it does run out of puff early. Its a hard choice, you can argue about what turbos to use till the cows come home but its much of a muchness, I mean when your compearing turbos like the HKS and Garretts, they are all good and designed for a spesific purpose, each individual owner has to decide what they want from there car and then rely on their tuner to guide them in the right direction with turbo choice. Now I have told CRD what I want from the car, and they have recomended the -5, now this came from Jim at CRD, and I believe he knows what he is talking about, he knows the car insde out and has probably tuned 1000s of GTR with different set up's, this is what he recomended, so its still up in the air but I am still leaning towards the -5's at this stage. I know its a slightly different kettle of fish but if you can get your hands on the latest ignition dvd and watch the Dutton R32 GTR, that this is awesome! over 400awkw -5 turbos 10.2 q/m. Thats a level I would love to achieve, obviously finances dont allow at this stage, but I consider this stage 1. If I was certain that I would not be doing further mods to the car then I would go for a smaller turbo thats more responsive, but I know myself and I will no doubt want more once Im used to the extra power stage 1 will achieve. Will decide by the end of the week what turbos I will be using. But it will either be the -5 or -7.

[gun32gtr]

here a thread which shows some good performing -5 garretts like ive got..

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/t1...amp;hl=gun32gtr

[Swiper the Fox]

I know its a slightly different kettle of fish but if you can get your hands on the latest ignition dvd and watch the Dutton R32 GTR, that this is awesome! over 400awkw -5 turbos 10.2 q/m. Thats a level I would love to achieve

Do you really understand the type of investment required for this level of performance?

Its massive...I dont know the exact figure Mark and Russell has spent on their car but i know how much it cost us to get where we are and its almost a 6 figure sum!! (this of course includes the initial $37000 purchase price in 2001)

Our engine bay has seen nearly $30 000 recently!

You can do it on the cheap...but it will bite you hard when you break it. Do it right 1st time or do it cheap twice..or even three times. Doing it cheaply ends up costing you more than doing it properly, with the added heartache and headache's.

[Blitz]

Couldn't have said it better myself

[wrxhoon]

I know its a slightly different kettle of fish but if you can get your hands on the latest ignition dvd and watch the Dutton R32 GTR, that this is awesome! over 400awkw -5 turbos 10.2 q/m. Thats a level I would love to achieve, obviously finances dont allow at this stage, but I consider this stage 1.

To get to that kind of power you will need a lot of work done ot it, especialy in the cyl head . If you manage to get it to that kind of power and use it, you will find you are breaking things all the time, even the block !!

[IDO 11S R32]

Do you really understand the type of investment required for this level of performance?

Its massive...I dont know the exact figure Mark and Russell has spent on their car but i know how much it cost us to get where we are and its almost a 6 figure sum!! (this of course includes the initial $37000 purchase price in 2001)

Our engine bay has seen nearly $30 000 recently!

You can do it on the cheap...but it will bite you hard when you break it. Do it right 1st time or do it cheap twice..or even three times. Doing it cheaply ends up costing you more than doing it properly, with the added heartache and headache's.

I said "Its what I would LOVE to achieve, I didnt say I would get there." I do understand the extra $$$ and work involved in getting there and thats with the engine alone, then you have to consider, brakes/suspension/geabox/driveshaft etc.. But hey we can all have dreams cant we!!! But remember the price of parts for these cars has reduced dramaticly so I guessing it wouldnt cost as much to build today as it did 6 years ago. But like I said if I can get to a figure between 300-350awkw I will be estatic and from what I have read and have been told it should make no less then 280awkw.

[Swiper the Fox]

I said "Its what I would LOVE to achieve, I didnt say I would get there." I do understand the extra $$$ and work involved in getting there and thats with the engine alone, then you have to consider, brakes/suspension/geabox/driveshaft etc.. But hey we can all have dreams cant we!!! But remember the price of parts for these cars has reduced dramaticly so I guessing it wouldnt cost as much to build today as it did 6 years ago. But like I said if I can get to a figure between 300-350awkw I will be estatic and from what I have read and have been told it should make no less then 280awkw.

i didn't build the car 6 yrs ago...that was when i bought it. The engine $$ were spent this year and i got great discounts.

just making sure your aware thats all...no point starting to build a car finding you have run out of $$ halfway through, or cutting corners and having a busted car you cannot afford to fix. (ive seen this on here more times than i care to remember)

im not having a go at your dreams...just don't want you to fall into the trap a lot of other people have. They end up spending a lot of money and finish with no car and dreams broken.

[IDO 11S R32]

i didn't build the car 6 yrs ago...that was when i bought it. The engine $$ were spent this year and i got great discounts.

just making sure your aware thats all...no point starting to build a car finding you have run out of $$ halfway through, or cutting corners and having a busted car you cannot afford to fix. (ive seen this on here more times than i care to remember)

im not having a go at your dreams...just don't want you to fall into the trap a lot of other people have. They end up spending a lot of money and finish with no car and dreams broken.

Yes thanks, Im begining to think thats what will happen to me. No but really, I have the bolt on parts, I will fit them and leave it up to my tuner to tune the car right (tame tune) Then I will drive the car, if it breaks the I will deal with that then, but like I have said, I dont do track days, it will go to WSID once or twice but thats it, its just to get me to work and back and go cruizing with mates on the weekends. ANyway did you get the cash I put into your account for the 2WD switch? I look forward to some sideways action!

[Topaz]

350kw for work and back, hmm

In the 2 and a half years I have owned my GTR I have put about $20k into mods and I haven't touched turbos or internals yet, not even cams.... ouch! . Most of the cash has gone to the little things like recently wheels, nuts and coilpacks (on their way) also clutch, fuel system, cam gears, radiator, power fc, boost controller and then theres the non-performance gaining cosmetics .

Good luck either way, hope you reach your figure with a few dollars to spare to afford a beer to gloat over it when your done.

[SLIPPERY]

show us a pick of the new shoes Tom!

[IDO 11S R32]

Dont think there will be any coin left over after the build, will definantly go over, got a quote to retrim the interior, $2700 for full leather retrim in black and gray with the GTR logo embroided in the seats? Is this a good price?

[OFENSV]

that front and rear seats?

[IDO 11S R32]

Yes front and rear seats and all inserts, door and rear.

[Topaz]

show us a pick of the new shoes Tom!

When they get here I will. They get shipped out of Japan on the 30th

[Faid]

Dude for the amount of work you need to do on your car, the easiest way to do it is get your engine out. its by far the most hassle free way. getting your turbo's out without doing that is just forcing your brain and your patience. I have a highmount T04Z and i still dont bother to pull the engine out for getting the turbo off. and for that power, look at the tomei poncams 260 deg 9.15mm lift, on my 450 awkw setup wich i use nearly daily those cams make a fat midrange, and the camgears helped alot. its like being kicked in the arse evrytime you hit boost. and you must be crazy not to fit your N1 oil pump, you dont know what the previous owner put in there, id be rather safe then very sorry. PULL YOUR ENGINE OUT, youll thank me when your done and itll save you from inventing new words for the dictionary.

[Beer Baron]

I'm with Faid on this one. get your engine out son. there are a few crucial things you can achieve when you get it out:

sump baffles (or even better enlarged sump)

crank collar fitted

new oil pump

replace all the hoses around the back of the engine

check bearing condition

none of those things can be done with engine in. it will also make it much easier to remove and replace the turbos once the engine is out of the car.

[wrxhoon]

While the engine is out you may as well do a full re-build you will need it if you want 400AWKW. May as well use a better block( 24u or RRR), maybe a stroket kit?? It never ends, the only time it will end is when you run out of money or you get sick of spending money .

Of course it will not cost you any more for labour to replace the turbos a new box and clutch, do everything at once do it right and you will save heaps of $$$$ , you probably get away with $50k.