Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys,

Need to borrow a bit of knowledge from some RB experts :) . Over the last few months in my spare time ive been building up a 4WD RB25det for my R32 GTS4. I have installed a greddy type front feed plenum and its made things a little extra confusing for me now that i need to connect all the water lines.

in this picture you can see the turbo water line coming around the back of the head. I am using one from an RB20det, notice it splits into too lines. I'm unsure if i need both the lines now that im using the greddy, so im guessing i might end up blocking the top one off? For now, you can see i have connected the bottom line to the closest connection, just for science. Anyone know where it/they are supposed to go?

PICTURE 1:

post-32703-1193049199_thumb.jpg

in this picture you can see another part that needs connecting... any clues?

PICTURE 2:

post-32703-1193049261_thumb.jpg

in this picture you can see the last 3 water connections i need to complete... the green plastic one and the other 2 metal ones. I have blocked off the small top metal one as instructed by this tutorial from strich9. this leaves me with another 2 lines i need to connect...

PICTURE 3:

post-32703-1193049306_thumb.jpg

help would be greatly appreciated ;)

2nd pic and last pic big fitting are heater hoses. Green plastic one isnt a water connection, its the knock sensor

thanx, i cant remember where to join the knock sensor then? also im guessing to join the heater hoses its going to be a little different than normal due to the fact its goin in a 32.

Edited by zertek

And the first pic, needs to go into the back of ur intake.

Mine actually doesnt have a T peice. its just a straight pipe, form the intake around the back to the turbo.

Probably would be better to do it this way, as the heater has flow from either side of the block. With the T peice you are just tapping the heater system into the turbos watercooling system.

And the first pic, needs to go into the back of ur intake.

Mine actually doesnt have a T peice. its just a straight pipe, form the intake around the back to the turbo.

Probably would be better to do it this way, as the heater has flow from either side of the block. With the T peice you are just tapping the heater system into the turbos watercooling system.

yes this is what i suspected. If the rb25's only have one line then im sweet to block of that top one. cheers

connect that large one back to the water/oil cooler.

As Adriano said green one = knock sensor

not sure which large one your talking about?

And the first pic, needs to go into the back of ur intake.

Mine actually doesnt have a T peice. its just a straight pipe, form the intake around the back to the turbo.

Probably would be better to do it this way, as the heater has flow from either side of the block. With the T peice you are just tapping the heater system into the turbos watercooling system.

i cant connect my turbo water line to the intake as the greddy doesnt have anywhere for me to connect it. on this tutorial it isnt very clear but it appears he has tapped the turbo water line into the small nipple on the heater hose connection? i assume this would be ok as the water would be the same temperature all around the block? or is there a cooler source of water i can tap into?

Remember this below? It's the turbo water line that went into the back of the stocker plenum! (yes, we gotta hook it up!)

PlenumInstall%20034.JPG

Use our bit of fuel line, and some ingenuity, and extend the water line to the nipple below. You'll see what I mean. It's hiding.

PlenumInstall%20035.JPG

i cant connect my turbo water line to the intake as the greddy doesnt have anywhere for me to connect it. on this tutorial it isnt very clear but it appears he has tapped the turbo water line into the small nipple on the heater hose connection? i assume this would be ok as the water would be the same temperature all around the block? or is there a cooler source of water i can tap into?

Hi mate, yea you could probably get away with it. possibly check with someone whos done it, or someone more experienced to be sure.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey, yeah I really like the color. Only paint I'd rather have is KN6, but those are expensive. Right now I'm trying to get the car to the point where I can get it tuned to 370hp so the whole setup can be driven legally, and pass the next inspection that is already due anyway. Beyond that lots of rust fixing I'm afraid, winter project is most likely going to be a front end teardown and fixing the strut tower rust. I know these can be driven daily but I don't think I will do so anytime soon. Will post a build thread soon with a list of issues and futute plans.   Cheers
    • Wanted to reply to this topic. I'm in the somewhat same boat with our Stagea. I'm trying to install a different rear diff. The Stagea/Skyline uses mounts on top of the rear diff for the ATTESA pump. Any way you can relocate the pump? I did find this kit https://theskylineshed.com/products/nissan-oem-attesa-mounting-kit-to-suit-r32-r33-r34
    • So here's the deal, my wife picked up an S2 AWD Stagea. Super cool, clean car. Looks like the owner in Japan went track spec as it's got some heavy modifications including Exedy twin disk, tension rods, coilovers, GTR brakes, oil cooler & a Nismo 2 way rear diff. Now, cool mods for sure. But, she is just using this as a casual daily driver. The 2 way rear is AGGRESSIVE. It also has solid subframe bushings & poly diff bushings. So that doesn't help either. So far I've tried changing the diff fluid to the correct fluid. Even tried a little friction modifier. No help. This thing clunks, skips the tires & has some slight whine/NVH when driving. Might sound like I'm being picky, but just trying to find a better solution. Here in the states, it's impossible to find a Stagea rear diff. No luck. I do have a 300zx non-turbo diff. Same ratio, 5 bolt axles. On the Stagea, you need both front & rear diff ratios to match. This car is a 4.083. I'd like to just swap a normal rear diff into this thing. Nothing fancy. Even open diff is fine. She's not tracking the car LOL The difference is that the ATTESA pump mounts to the top of the rear diff. There are 3 total mounting points for the pump on top of the diff. With all this being said, what would be the best way to go about this? I could remove the Stagea diff & see if I could get somebody to possibly weld the 3 tabs/mounting points onto the 300zx diff so we could mount the pump on the 300zx diff. I could swap the internals from the 300zx into the Stagea diff but this is not in my comfort zone. Is it possible to mount the ATTESA pump to the underside of the car? Sorry for the paragraph. Just trying to figure out how to go about this. Any help is much appreciated! Stagea Differential - Note two top tabs, one bolt hole for ATTESA pump mounting   300zx Diff - No mounting tabs Also found this mounting kit ?? https://theskylineshed.com/products/nissan-oem-attesa-mounting-kit-to-suit-r32-r33-r34  
    • Not ready yet, but maybe later in the year?
×
×
  • Create New...