Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

I am sure this is a re post but I did a search and found everything but.

I have just rebuilt my engine, pretty much stock other some some oil flow extras ;)

The car has aftermarket hi flow steel wheel bb turbos, exhaust, and a mines ecu.

Can anyone tell me how much pressure i can safely put into the motor? Im scared of blowing it up all over again. (Oil pump killed it the first time)

stock boost would be safe.

problem is your MINES ecu.

It is not tuned for AUS fuels.

If I was in your situation where I was now at least $6K lighter after the RB26 rebuild, I would either get a stock ECU or an aftermarket tunable ecu or even get the stock ECu remapped.

the MINES one will be the reason your engine will die if it dies again.

thats what I was going to say - the mines ECU.

They are exactly that - a land mine.

People think they are these crash hot ECUs and that their car runs so good with them. Shame its really detonating the ass end out of the engine, and killing it.

Get rid of it, and get a factory ECU, and then start saving for a Powerfc \ Link \ Haltek \ Emanage \ Autronic \ Microtec \ Millions of others

WOT HE SAID :)

BUT > after you refit your new ECU get a large hammer and bash the MINES ECU firmly and squarely in the middle of its backing case :(

Mike

thats what I was going to say - the mines ECU.

They are exactly that - a land mine.

People think they are these crash hot ECUs and that their car runs so good with them. Shame its really detonating the ass end out of the engine, and killing it.

Get rid of it, and get a factory ECU, and then start saving for a Powerfc \ Link \ Haltek \ Emanage \ Autronic \ Microtec \ Millions of others

Edited by The Alchemist
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 5 months later...

now that you have a rebuilt engine, some rebuilt turbos, and bigger injectors your best bet is to bite the bullet and buy a Power FC. it can be easily tuned for your larger injectors and I would say you can safely run 18psi. that should give you around 300rwkw and at this point your air flow meters will be maxing out (not a huge problem though, it can be tuned around).

mines ecus are not the death boxes people make them out to be. japane hi-oku (hi octane fuel) is not some magic fuel. yes it's better than our 98RON but not by much. back when we had only 91 and 95 sure there was a big difference, but not so much these days. yes many mines maps run very rich and also run lots of timing. providing you get it checked on a dyno and look at the AFRs and have somone listen for detonation they can be fine. but yeah, in your case now that you are after more power, switch to something programmable.

Why are you going to spend $1000+ for a PowerFC, then install & then get it retuned when the stock ECU can be reprogrammed with Nistune to run bigger injectors/Z32 afms etc etc

My brother has the exact same setup as you, cept 34gtr steel wheeld turbos, nismo pump & all forged internals etc etc. Runs sard 700cc injectors on 15psi atm. Eventually he'll upgrade the turbos.

Car runs very smooth. Retune was $880 through hyperdrive here in Perth. They swap some of the ecu out initially (which is why its a little more), every tune after that is $145. They've tuned them fine with upgraded twins, but yet to do a big single

I know the power fc has a more capable processor but dont see anything wrong with the stocker. just my 2c

Mike

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My take on gg2 48mm, 54mm, 58mm, and 62mm compressor map for same size compressor vs gg1 : All gg2 only outflow gg1 above 20 psi. As all g gen 2 surge line at lower left of comp map move to the right, all gg2 sacrifice spool vs same size gg1, surge line move to the right worst for 54mm gg2. So for same size compressor if you want best response, use gg1, if you want max hp at >20psi use gg2 but you will be laggier vs same size gg1. Max compressor efficiency drops to max 75% on all gg2 vs max 76%-80% of same size gg1. Iirc lower efficiency means hotter iat less dense air so lower hp at same operating point of comp map. Also curious why gg2 is mapped to lower max rpm vs same size gg1 (only 48mm size both gg1 gg2 mapped to same rpm) : 54mm gg1 165,000 rpm  vs  gg2 160,000 rpm. 58mm gg1 150,000 rpm vs gg2 140,000rpm. 62mm gg1 145,000 rpm vs gg2 140,000 rpm. If gg2 can safely spin to gg1 rpm then they can flow a bit more than as mapped. Good thing that all gg 2 interchange compressor and turbine housings with same size gg 1. So gg1 owners can buy gg2 chra only if planning to boost >20psi.
    • My stuff is all with Shannon's, granted, I don't really have imports I'm driving on the road, however, I've had multiple cars at the same time with them. Presently we have the Landcruiser on laid up cover, Sarah's Kluger on full cover, and the house insured. About 18 months ago Sarah wrote her Subaru Liberty GTB off, insured with Shannon's, and the payout, and buy back of the wreck was super quick. In 2020 we had the VF Commodore totalled in a major hailstorm. Storm was on the Saturday, I called on the Sunday and lodged it, vehicle was towed on Tuesday night, assessment team called on Wednesday to say it was a total loss and get payout details, money was in the bank on Thursday morning. Have had a few other claims both at fault, and not at fault, over the years, and never had an issue with them.   Funnily enough, they're also the cheapest insurer I find for things like Sarah's Kluger.   I will say I'm less impressed dealing with them lately around "the experience", as a lot of their staff that you deal with aren't car enthusiasts. Shannon's has a much more main stream feel ever since they decided to become "big corporate", laid a heap of staff off, and then hired a bunch of non enthusiasts. At the same time they've been making a push to be less "call us and we'll personally have someone who cares help" to "hey, this computer can do stuff for you" and are trying to get more square pegs to fit round holes. (That's just the vibe I get from them). Again, have had no issues with claims with them, but get a bit of a "less personal" feel from them.
    • A thing I wasn’t happy with with enthusiast was during the initial phone call they told me they’d insure it for 130k but needed photos.   I then sent them photos and they told me $80k as there were other cars either similar modifications available for around that price, I told them to send me the links to said cars so that I can buy them. i then sent the modification list with prices of the parts (no labor) and the price then came to 115k, which is still shy of the 130 that was agreed in the initial phone call 
    • Ask me a bit later this week before payday
    • I agree that delayed payment probably isn't the most suitable solution. It seems a solid complete transaction would be best. As I wouldn't be using this sale as a line of credit that would typically earn interest, we can probably arrange a much cleaner single transaction deal. I can do $92.52 today. Would you prefer EFT, or Cash on Pickup?  😛
×
×
  • Create New...