Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 54
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

:turned: yay no damage under the car :w00t:

as for the hicas its going in the bin and a lock bar is going in it's place thanks sambo33 sounds like a plane

no worries, i got mine from greenline, but it looks like theres some for sale on the forums too

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/t183517.html

thanks hun im about to put it on a hoist just to make sure that nothing else is damaged and ill get my mate to look at that, i was going around a bend to the left and it just went out from under me so i went to power out of it but that was the bad move i think cause that is what threw me towards the gutter what do you think i should have done?
Look, I wasn't there, but it sounds to me like you simply went round the corner too quick and lost it.

HICAS only moves +/-0.5 degrees, and as said just leaves you a bit of a "vague" feeling on the edge.

It's not VTEC yo! and doesn't go about randomly and violently kicking in under normal operation.

Sorry to hear about ur car Kellie... cable ties & gaffa tape ftw !!

my hicas is a bit knackered, just like with Cubes under hard acceleration it can apply itself, making me have to counter steer slightly to the left... and it returns under deceleration, pretty sure the rack or the rear pump is fkd. Just gotta find time to rip out all the unwanted pump and lines when i chuck in my lock bar and lose that extra 30kg :P the guides say it takes a few hours.... so im gonna allow days :rolleyes:

So let me see if i got this right, You own a R33 Turbo RB25 RWD car, You were traveling around a corner, and ur car went sideways, and gave it more stick, and u lost it into a gutter, and ur blaming hicas...

Edited by silverbulletR33

I was in a 32 awhile ago, we were driving in a straight line, I was in the back and I felt a sudden side shift, at the same time i asked Wtfwt the driver said the hicas light has come on, it has happened a few very random times before.

I ditched mine as well :)

i had a 33 gtst and another mates one too, that over 80k's the hicas went crazy. Id be correcting myslf on a straight road.

Turned out to be the little plastic disc behind the steering wheel was crooked.

So hicas does stuff up, you cant assume that a girl (kellie) does not know how to drive, and just put it down to that.

I say good on her, being out there cruising learning her car, its the only way to learn is to know your limits.

Some ppl are bagging her and i bet she could drive better than some ppl on here, at least she is out there doing it.

Thats my 2 cents

mike

I've never had an issue with my HICAS so I don't really know what it's like when it goes wild but to say that the rear wheels turning half a degree has caused you to crash is ridiculous.

No offense (well... not much anyway)

Race__24....toolmaker? fitter and turner?

hey i love that design...if it was cnc do you still have the program??? hehe.

Yeah mate, toolie by trade but working in aerospace now. I don't have the program but can write you one if you want.

i got mine off of Sherwin (NV_NO1), hes quick and is a good seller.

ive got a 180, so mine is a bit different, but im sure the symptoms of malfunctioning hicas would be similar.

before i locked my hicas it actually seemed to have a mind of its own. at low speed, as others have said, it was alright, i could still notice it, but could handle it. it wasnt until i started going 100km/h+ that it really got bad.

it was actually dangerous. the back end just felt like it had a mind of its own. slight corners would make it go nuts and all over the place, and have fun trying to turn abit sharper under speed. there was no way of knowing what it would do.

r33s have it easy when it comes to locking it, as others have mentioned it is electrical.

on s13s it is mechanical. took me a couple of hours to get the tie rod ends out, lock bar in, remove all the lines to the front, remove the actual hicas pump, and then finally run a loop from the outlet that goes to the hicas cradle to the inlet that brings it back.

then there was the hunt to find the right wire to cut to get the light to go out on the dash.

worth it though, the before and after difference is really very good. but thats coming from hicas that had a mind of its own. if it was working correctly im sure it would have served its purpose properly.

not sure bout 33's but i gots 32 that had hicas but got taken out n an S13 rear cradle got put in.

bolts straight up n is shyt load lighter,

i would recomend that to ppl if they want hicas gone in there 32 for good

Possibly a weakness with the hicas elec setup.

Mines only recently started playing up but granted I have had the car for ~6years and travelled ~181,000km's (total odo 248,000) so she's done well.

The cars still a million times better than the old VS 5ltr 5speed I bought that was near new back in 1999 with low km's. From day one the interior rattled, had alternator, inlet manifold leaks, gearbox, diff and rear IRS subframe problems. The little ol' R32 has zero rattles, still drives well, still on the same alt, power steer pump etc.

thanks to those that slaged me yeah i was going fast but you all were not on the cruise and i didnt ask for you all to be nasty so thanks :P

love all of you that were helpful and gave me some tips on how to fix/evaluate the problem :P

thanks michael for sticking up for me :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The sodium acetate, mixed with citric acid, doesn't actually buffer each other. Interestingly though, if you used Sodium Acetate, and acetic acid, THAT becomes a buffer solution. Additionally, a weak acid that can attack a metal, is still a weak acid that can attack a metal. If you don't neutralise it, and wash it off, it's going to be able to keep attacking. It works the same way when battery acid dries, get that stuff somewhere, and then it gets wet, and off it goes again breaking things down. There's a reason why people prefer a weak acid, and it's because they want TIME to be able to be on their side. IE, DIY guys are happy to leave some mild steel in vinegar for 24 hours to get mill scale off. However, if you want to do it chemically in industry, you grab the muriatic acid. If you want to do it quicker at home, go for the acetic acid if you don't want muriatic around. At the end of the day, look at the above thumbnail, as it proves what I said in the earlier post, you can clean that fuel tank up all you want with the solution, but the rust that has now been removed was once the metal of the fuel tank. So how thin in spots is your fuel tank getting? If the magazine on the left, is the actual same magazine as on the right, you'll notice it even introduces more holes... Well, rust removal in general actually does that. The fuel tank isn't very thick. So, I'll state again, look to replace the tank, replace the fuel hanger, and pump, work out how the rust and shit is making it past the fuel filter, and getting into the injectors. That is the real problem. If the fuel filter were doing its job, the injectors wouldn't be blocked.
    • Despite having minimal clothing because of the hot weather right now, I did have rubber gloves and safety glasses on just in-case for most of the time. Yes, I was scrubbing with my gloves on before, but brushing with a brush removes the remaining rust. To neutralize, I was thinking distilled water and baking soda, or do you think that would be overkill?
    • You can probably scrub the rust with a toothbrush or something. After you get the rust off flush well with water to neutralize and you will probably want to also use a fuel tank sealer to keep it from rusting again.
    • The sodium citrate solution is designed to buffer the citric acid to keep it from attacking metal quite so much, the guy that came up with that recipe did a ton of testing on how much metal loss occurs over time and it's nothing crazy unless you forget about it for months:   
    • Ohhh I see lol To be honest the main reason why I wanted to start modding is because of a business trip to Japan and Indonesia. I saw many cool and modded cars all throughout in these countries, especially Japan. I myself am of Chinese+Japanese nationality and when living in china (never lived in Japan js my dad side lol) I remember staring at these cars pass by with their loud tacky exhausts and insane wide body kits. And when I went back to Japan, I got even more invested even asking people about their cars and why they modded. Most gave similar answers to what you said but funny enough one guy just said that he saw the need for speed movie being filmed once in Tokyo I think near Shibuya Crossing and got inspired to tune and mod. After that I just started to fantasize on owning a car like that. Also tbh I prefer the R32 over the R34 it's just the R34 is more iconic lol (also apparently better aftermarket support than the R32) and my only goal really is just to make the car mine and make it fun to drive. As much as I love my Cayenne it's pretty bland to drive. Sure the interior is nice and pretty, gives you attention yada yada but I've wanted to experience what it is like to have a car that is truly yours. I suppose thats the goal so far. Haha if you find where I'm from, then sure. Ill help you out on your next "financial decision"
×
×
  • Create New...