Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 54
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

:turned: yay no damage under the car :w00t:

as for the hicas its going in the bin and a lock bar is going in it's place thanks sambo33 sounds like a plane

no worries, i got mine from greenline, but it looks like theres some for sale on the forums too

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/t183517.html

thanks hun im about to put it on a hoist just to make sure that nothing else is damaged and ill get my mate to look at that, i was going around a bend to the left and it just went out from under me so i went to power out of it but that was the bad move i think cause that is what threw me towards the gutter what do you think i should have done?
Look, I wasn't there, but it sounds to me like you simply went round the corner too quick and lost it.

HICAS only moves +/-0.5 degrees, and as said just leaves you a bit of a "vague" feeling on the edge.

It's not VTEC yo! and doesn't go about randomly and violently kicking in under normal operation.

Sorry to hear about ur car Kellie... cable ties & gaffa tape ftw !!

my hicas is a bit knackered, just like with Cubes under hard acceleration it can apply itself, making me have to counter steer slightly to the left... and it returns under deceleration, pretty sure the rack or the rear pump is fkd. Just gotta find time to rip out all the unwanted pump and lines when i chuck in my lock bar and lose that extra 30kg :P the guides say it takes a few hours.... so im gonna allow days :rolleyes:

So let me see if i got this right, You own a R33 Turbo RB25 RWD car, You were traveling around a corner, and ur car went sideways, and gave it more stick, and u lost it into a gutter, and ur blaming hicas...

Edited by silverbulletR33

I was in a 32 awhile ago, we were driving in a straight line, I was in the back and I felt a sudden side shift, at the same time i asked Wtfwt the driver said the hicas light has come on, it has happened a few very random times before.

I ditched mine as well :)

i had a 33 gtst and another mates one too, that over 80k's the hicas went crazy. Id be correcting myslf on a straight road.

Turned out to be the little plastic disc behind the steering wheel was crooked.

So hicas does stuff up, you cant assume that a girl (kellie) does not know how to drive, and just put it down to that.

I say good on her, being out there cruising learning her car, its the only way to learn is to know your limits.

Some ppl are bagging her and i bet she could drive better than some ppl on here, at least she is out there doing it.

Thats my 2 cents

mike

I've never had an issue with my HICAS so I don't really know what it's like when it goes wild but to say that the rear wheels turning half a degree has caused you to crash is ridiculous.

No offense (well... not much anyway)

Race__24....toolmaker? fitter and turner?

hey i love that design...if it was cnc do you still have the program??? hehe.

Yeah mate, toolie by trade but working in aerospace now. I don't have the program but can write you one if you want.

i got mine off of Sherwin (NV_NO1), hes quick and is a good seller.

ive got a 180, so mine is a bit different, but im sure the symptoms of malfunctioning hicas would be similar.

before i locked my hicas it actually seemed to have a mind of its own. at low speed, as others have said, it was alright, i could still notice it, but could handle it. it wasnt until i started going 100km/h+ that it really got bad.

it was actually dangerous. the back end just felt like it had a mind of its own. slight corners would make it go nuts and all over the place, and have fun trying to turn abit sharper under speed. there was no way of knowing what it would do.

r33s have it easy when it comes to locking it, as others have mentioned it is electrical.

on s13s it is mechanical. took me a couple of hours to get the tie rod ends out, lock bar in, remove all the lines to the front, remove the actual hicas pump, and then finally run a loop from the outlet that goes to the hicas cradle to the inlet that brings it back.

then there was the hunt to find the right wire to cut to get the light to go out on the dash.

worth it though, the before and after difference is really very good. but thats coming from hicas that had a mind of its own. if it was working correctly im sure it would have served its purpose properly.

not sure bout 33's but i gots 32 that had hicas but got taken out n an S13 rear cradle got put in.

bolts straight up n is shyt load lighter,

i would recomend that to ppl if they want hicas gone in there 32 for good

Possibly a weakness with the hicas elec setup.

Mines only recently started playing up but granted I have had the car for ~6years and travelled ~181,000km's (total odo 248,000) so she's done well.

The cars still a million times better than the old VS 5ltr 5speed I bought that was near new back in 1999 with low km's. From day one the interior rattled, had alternator, inlet manifold leaks, gearbox, diff and rear IRS subframe problems. The little ol' R32 has zero rattles, still drives well, still on the same alt, power steer pump etc.

thanks to those that slaged me yeah i was going fast but you all were not on the cruise and i didnt ask for you all to be nasty so thanks :P

love all of you that were helpful and gave me some tips on how to fix/evaluate the problem :P

thanks michael for sticking up for me :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Apologies, while id like to put the MAF as close to the TB and relocate the recirc, this may be too much work. Will most likely end up just putting it on the original AFM spot ( onto/next to the airbox ).  Was going through nistune, found a pretty nifty doc on this. Nistune MAF Notes. Also, i was looking through the bay, and there seems to be a tube/line connected from the A/C to the intercooler piping ( Between the smic and the recirc), what does this do as the crossover fmic piping doesnt have any connection? plumbing? not sure what you call it but the nipple thing ahah.  Also, been reading up more about crossover fmic in regards to the legality of having the hole drilled for the piping, this would most likely need to be engineered right?
    • My advice is if you need a big build done do it in Japan. The yen rate is so favorable and there are shops that can be genuinely trusted and not micromanaged/carefully monitored every step of the way. Garage Yoshida is obviously my preferred option but they're so busy these days and all interaction with new customers has to be mediated through BBL/Toprank now. 
    • I haven't....but a poorly made one would terrify me. Surely a good second hand one is the go, as they don't work hard and no-one wants to keep one after they are finished with it A big consideration would be the weight of the shell you are putting on it....is it a fully dressed chassis or just the body
    • Not stock. All remade. Mostly looks stock because the pipes run to and from the standard holes in the inner guard to get to the return flow FMIC. I'm not sure which question you're trying to ask, because it seems like "stock position" vs "stock position".
    • Hey, it's a GT-R, it's just as significant a moment as mine😁 It's not ideal when things are uncertain; I'm the type of person that always has a set plan for things in life so being unsure of this plan puts me in a weird place mentally.
×
×
  • Create New...