Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just trying to tweak the position of my GTR pump so it doesnt sound like a hive of bees.

It is really tight in there. There seems hardly enough room to have any gap the whole way round the pump and the relief valve piece at the top. It seems inevitable that it will touch the tank. I'm thinking this might be the reason so many people complain of noisy pumps.

Is it just a matter of bending the bracket and hopefully leaving like 1 or 2mm around the pump - though it could rock back and forth that much!

I have rotated the pump and tried to bend the bracket a bit.

Anyone have any trade secrets??!

Edited by benl1981

Thanks silverbullet - so it is possible :turned:

I have a sedan - I wonder if the tank is the same.

Here is a pic. DO you have any pics of yours in the tank silver? I can slot it in ok just seems like it will definately interfere with the tank somewhere.

PS> Phot was taken before I slotted the bracket right in.

ALSO - Other question regarding hose clamps on the 8mm Fuel line. The clamps I got are new versions of the factory screw up clamps. However even if I tighten them right up you can still rotate the hose by hand on the fitting if you turn fairly had. I thought they would clamp with more pressure - Is this normal though. The clamps I used were similar but not quite as robust looking as the one pictured

post-11777-1193140683_thumb.jpg

post-11777-1193143150_thumb.jpg

Edited by benl1981

I actually ended up taking the hose clamp off mine, as it created more problems that it was worth. Ive found that if its slotted into the bracket properly, the hose and the bottom part of the bracket holds the pump in fine. I opened it up about 2 weeks ago. after its been in for a few months, and it hasn't moved at all.

And no I dont have a pic of it sorry.

So you didn't even cable tie it? I cut off the base of the bracket. Did you? I might just cable tie the pump. The hose clamp is a bit of a pain.

Do you have much trouble getting the lid back on with the seal in there?

My new seal is busted now. Was swollen as soon as I oopened it. It might be because there was a hole in a fuel line that could have let some air in I guess??

Edited by benl1981

hey this is your other one.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/t1...amp;hl=GTR+pump

I thought u probably got it sorted?.

No, see I didnt cut off the bottom. You are probably going to have to use the hoseclamp now to be safe. You will just need to re-position the clamp a few times, till it allows you to slot it in properly.

if u can get ur hands on another cradle cheap. from a wrecked R33. just use that. just modify the rubber at the bottom a bit. the pump will sit in the cradle on a bit of a slant, but it will work fine, and no need for clamps :turned:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah it factory manual not sure about ratio but it looks like there’s been some work at the rear 
    • so I need a new speedo cable 
    • Throwing my spoon to the soup here a bit.  When I installed a 044 back in 2012, along with the direct power mod, the car became very difficult to start. To a point I burned one starter motor as I was late for work and tried to get the thing going. With some tuning and careful use of gas pedal when cranking it became bearable. Trying to make this short as possible, but the 044 died after 2-3 years, after which I went with an AEM 320lph pump, which also died after about 4 years to my dismay. After that I went with a Nismo pump, and while trying diagnose an emissions problem, I noticed for the first time that my fuel pressure was 5bar/72psi on idle, and that removing the vacuum line did nothing. After monitoring the situation, and removing the direct power feed and going back to FPCM in attempts to remedy it, I noticed there was fuel in the pressure regulator vac line. Kept the FPCM, installed AEM external regu and the car became sooo much better in every way, including starting. And I had driven it like it was for 11 years.. Anyway, I agree these are likely two different problems, and the FP problem you just haven't noticed before. I do not know much about haltecs, but what first came to mind was the CAS, which probably is not there any more. So how is the wiring from haltec to gauge cluster? How is the battery voltage and alternator?
    • Your car was auto before? You have different diff ratio (auto vs manual i think? or n/a and turbo?)
    • +1 for getting a screen off alibaba, CarPlay/Android Auto is vastly better than whatever navigation cars had 10 years ago. I got an Android screen for my 2015 BMW, huge difference. Fully compatible with factory stuff including iDrive controls.
×
×
  • Create New...