Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I was under the impression that the stock cooler piping was 2.5 inch ID (63mm).

I got a piping kit for an fmic, and measured the piping to be 2.25 inch ID (~57mm)

I thought this might be the wrong kit, so i measured my stock 33 smic inlets, and the leftover pipes from the R34smic upgrade. They measure 2.25 inch ID.

So, what size cooler piping is normal for the fmic kit for R33? Has anyone bothered to measure? Or just assume, as I did, that its 2.5 inch?

the hot side is often smaller than std but the cooler side is larger. i know on the big sr20 kits (like on our car previous) the hot side is usually around 57mm and the cool side is 70 or 80mm depending on kit.

its the just jap type 2 kit. it's supposed to be tube and fin, but i have a feeling they gave me the wrong cooler. looks like bar and plate to me. and also measures 600x280. i'm currently waiting for a reply about that. here are pics of the cooler they gave me

the piping comes in a seperate box, and it looks to be the correct shape for R33. but the diameter threw me off. after measuring my stock pipes, i'm not sure what size its supposed to be now. has anyone actually measured theirs?

yeah the piping kit looks correct for r33. i havent tried fitting anything yet, but it's basically the same shape as the others ive seen.

i just spoke to just jap, and they told me the piping kit is 2.25 on the type 2 (greddy copy) in keeping with the stock piping size.

they also said the new type 2 coolers are all bar and plate. they found a tube and fin in stock for me to pick up.

ive always assumed tube and fin flow better, less restriction, but cool less than bar and plate. is this right? coz now i'm getting conflicting info.

Yeah thats the general consensus between the 2.

I opted for the bar and plate. I'm using the stock turbo, as if flow is going to be hugely affected on the low flow a stocker pushes. Plus I'd rather have the better cooling side of things. Up to you really.

ive always assumed tube and fin flow better, less restriction, but cool less than bar and plate. is this right? coz now i'm getting conflicting info.

Other way round. bar and plate is cheap to make and hence is used more here in these types of kits.... all the better cores are a tube and fin type design.

so tube and fin would be a better choice? coz thats what i was going with

nissan smic's and gtr coolers are tube and fin. as well as the hks etc.

Edited by Munkyb0y

:) yes i see

well i measured my stock cooler piping. the one that joins to the standard crossover pipe. it seems to be 2.25 inch.

so i guess the same size (2.25") fmic piping on a stock turbo setup is probably the way to go.

updated the link with pics of the tube and fin cooler from just jap.

http://tony.ikkon.com.au/fmic/ - (scroll down for tube and fin)

looks ok to me. what do you think?

Edited by Munkyb0y
  • 1 month later...

fitted the cooler. drives nice. no added lag. still as responsive. feels like it pulls a bit harder.

i'm thinking it'll benefit from another tune. what do you guys think?

here's how it turned out.

post-29392-1197430267_thumb.jpg post-29392-1197430284_thumb.jpg

thanks man :(

the reo bar was easy. i just cut 2 small wedges out of each side of the bottom section. after i sprayed it black, you wouldnt even notice it's been cut.

the front bar needed a bit more attention around the cooler piping, but all in all, it was just a matter of patience.

Edited by Munkyb0y

lol. depends on the bar too i guess. does yours have a huge opening for the cooler? also, i hung my cooler from a single bracket in the centre, off my radiator support. the ones with the 2 mounting points that bolt up to the reo, sit alot more forward, so would require alot more cutting of the reo bar.

i managed to squeeze a cold air intake pipe just above the cooler piping in the passenger side opening (it's the blue rectangle-ish thing). i wish there was more room, but thats all i've got to work with there.

better than nothing i guess.

post-29392-1197602578_thumb.jpg

Edited by Munkyb0y

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Mate you saved be from dying in the Perth summer. AC wasn't changing direction and just going into diagnostics mode fixed it. You're a legend and I would shout you a beer if I could!
    • Unfortunately effort gone to waste, you will have substantial issues with how the manifold and wastegate have been integrated. You would be so much better off with a modified stock manifold like this: https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25detexgatedmanifold/   OR literally just getting a off the shelf Sinco or 6Boost manifold as myself and others have mentioned.  
    • Yuck. But it's kinda the same principle, moving timing around to make car run bad but sound good.... I went for a more spirited tuning drive to iron out a few things. Car no longer stalls, and it loved to dip RPM low when you clutch in. After tuning this (and the 4-5 tables that HPTuners/LS1 OEM ECU wants for idle air correction) it's now behaving somewhat normal. All expected because there's a new TB, new Intake manifold and that new TB which is 102mm vs 78... has an entirely different IAC passage which is smaller because ????? Unfortunately at this point I went to make further fine tuning changes to avoid it flaring up, you know... _tuning_ the HPTuners dongle died. Well to be more accurate - The USB cable died in a fashion that anyone who has ever charged a phone will recognize. After the app demanding I resync it 50 or so times (which all 'succeeded' but all failed) the device does not want to sync and I've logged a ticket with support to see if it's fixable. US Support said it was a 'storage issue' but after removing the SD card inside it and formatting it/fixing it the issue does persist. Unfortunately usually the fix is "Turn in your old dongle and pay $700 for the upgraded one" it's cheaper because I get some free licence credits I unfortunately don't need. However I'm 10 minutes down the road from HP Tuners AUS/VCM so at least I won't need to post it, and logged a new ticket for support over here. Definitely drives different. My SOTP dyno believes it's probably making 310-320kw instead of the 280 before.  It scrambles for traction a little now whereas it previously different. It drives like a bigger cam car up top even though the cam is smaller, likely due to the cam not being advanced 6 degrees. The timing is deliberately low and the fuel is very rich so who knows if this will improve on the dyno. It may, imperceptably. Also funny is removing the pineapples definitely makes the car squat more and axle tramp less. So this behavior of having more top end, squatting more, and scrabbling for traction more makes me think = more power. But I could have just been sitting on the threshold of that kind of behavior before. Time will tell if my butt dyno is calibrated right. I need the exhaust leaks fixed before dyno tune for obvious AFR related reasons - I repositioned the pipes but I'm not confident it's fully sealed even if it is better. At least the car does drive around while I cannot tweak/tune it for now. And I have aircon again. medium success!
    • Don't use that manifold. Please don't use that manifold. Sunk cost fallacy is not worth the later pain. None of these will be relevant to the change that will come from the different turbo and manifold. As in, the effect of the exhaust will be nil, regardless of what else is changed. And all the cam and fuel system stuff is not changing either way, so has no effect. The turbo and manifold (and to a small extent the wastegate)....big change.
×
×
  • Create New...