Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone,

i own an R32 GTS-T, but with an engine conversion from the original RB20 to the RB25. It is my first skyline i have owned so i am still getting too know it. One concerning thing is the HICAS light that is on the dash, i have checked all the power steering fluids and all that and they are fine, the car itself is reasonably stock apart from the engine conversion and the usual mods (BOV, front mount intercooler etc.). Yeah i am just curious what i can do too get rid of it, and if it is really detrimental too my car. The all wheel steering itself seems too work fine, i have checked all that and i just had the wheels aligned but it still pulls ever so slightly too the left, would this be because of the HICAS? Any help would be appreciated...

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/190617-r32-hicas-warning/
Share on other sites

is there a hicas lock bar installed? if so just take the instument cluster out and remove the HICAS bulb. if the hicas is still on there then my guess is when the engine conversion was done the links between the std r32 ecu and hicas ecu were lost. i'm not sure if the rb25 ecu can be wired to work with the r32 hicas unit.

Edited by QWK32

yep as said if it doesnt have a hicas lock bar, put one in. youll love yourself for it.

if you just want to get rid of the light;

look into the car from the boot and underneath the parcel shelf, to the right of centre you will see the hicas computer. it will have 2 plugs in it, unplug the smaller of the 2, and cut the green with white trace line wire.

that will make the light go out and stay out for hicas problems. it will still come on if you have low power steering fluid level etc.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you are keeping the current calipers you need to keep the current disc as the spacing of the caliper determines the disc diameter. Have you trial fitted the GTS brakes fit on a GTSt hub or is this forward planning? There could be differences in caliper mount spacing, backing plate and even hub shape that could cause an issue.
    • Hi there I have a r33 gts with 4 stud small brakes, I'm going to convert to 5 stud but keep the small brakes, what size rotor would I need?
    • First up, I wouldn't use PID straight up for boost control. There's also other control techniques that can be implemented. And as I said, and you keep missing the point. It's not the ONE thing, it's the wrapping it up together with everything else in the one system that starts to unravel the problem. It's why there are people who can work in a certain field as a generalist, IE a IT person, and then there are specialists. IE, an SQL database specialist. Sure the IT person can build and run a database, and it'll work, however theyll likely never be as good as a specialist.   So, as said, it's not as simple as you're thinking. And yes, there's a limit to the number of everything's in MCUs, and they run out far to freaking fast when you're designing a complex system, which means you have to make compromises. Add to that, you'll have a limited team working on it, so fixing / tweaking some features means some features are a higher priority than others. Add to that, someone might fix a problem around a certain unrelated feature, and that change due to other complexities in the system design, can now cause a new, unforseen bug in something else.   The whole thing is, as said, sometimes split systems can work as good, and if not better. Plus when there's no need to spend $4k on an all in one solution, to meet the needs of a $200 system, maybe don't just spout off things others have said / you've read. There's a lot of misinformation on the internet, including in translated service manuals, and data sheets. Going and doing, so that you know, is better than stating something you read. Stating something that has been read, is about as useful as an engineering graduate, as all they know is what they've read. And trust me, nearly every engineering graduate is useless in the real world. And add to that, if you don't know this stuff, and just have an opinion, maybe accept what people with experience are telling you as information, and don't keep reciting the exact same thing over and over in response.
    • How complicated is PID boost control? To me it really doesn't seem that difficult. I'm not disputing the core assertion (specialization can be better than general purpose solutions), I'm just saying we're 30+ years removed from the days when transistor budgets were in the thousands and we had to hem and haw about whether there's enough ECC DRAM or enough clock cycles or the interrupt handler can respond fast enough to handle another task. I really struggle to see how a Greddy Profec or an HKS EVC7 or whatever else is somehow a far superior solution to what you get in a Haltech Nexus/Elite ECU. I don't see OEMs spending time on dedicated boost control modules in any car I've ever touched. Is there value to separating out a motor controller or engine controller vs an infotainment module? Of course, those are two completely different tasks with highly divergent requirements. The reason why I cite data sheets, service manuals, etc is because as you have clearly suggested I don't know what I'm doing, can't learn how to do anything correctly, and have never actually done anything myself. So when I do offer advice to people I like to use sources that are not just based off of taking my word for it and can be independently verified by others so it's not just my misinterpretation of a primary source.
    • That's awesome, well done! Love all these older Datsun / Nissans so rare now
×
×
  • Create New...