Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Went in for a tune of my RB26 the other day and had lots of problems...

Most are a easy fix but one niggling on is the fact that my d-jetro map sensors are bottom lining at 20psi and I'm told that they generally max out at 26psi...

Any ideas why this is happening?!?

Cheers

Simon

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/190702-power-fc-d-jetro-problem/
Share on other sites

where is the pressure source taken from? i have had issue's when not taking the source from the actual throttle bodys (bit of a pain but worth the effort)... hooking up to the balance bar tends to cause a few issues.

where is the pressure source taken from? i have had issue's when not taking the source from the actual throttle bodys... hooking up to the balance bar tends to cause a few issues.

the intake manifold just before the throttle bodys?!?

Edited by Cerbera
the intake manifold just before the throttle bodys?!?

before head and butterflies or between plenum and butterflies? it should be between head and throttle plates as shown in install manual.

ah yeah so thats the scale then and correction

that doesnt mean your maxing the map sensors

have you got a data log of the run?

check out what voltage PIM1/PIM2 get to, if they hit 5v they are maxing

sorry to hijack ur thread cerbera but i thought since ur on the topic of D jetro's i got a quick simple question.

they only made these for the GTR right? aint none of these got GTST or GTTs?

You can modify the ECU loom for the R33 GTST to be able to use the D-Jetro. I Don't know if this is the same for the R34 GTT (probably depends on the ECU plug shape as much as anything).

yeah RB26 D-Jetro can be used in R32, R33 and Z32 (300zx) but R34 GTT has a totally diff ecu plug.

did you see my last post?

is PIM1/PIM2 actaully maxing at 5v?

took stupid thing for a drive last night and boosted in 3rd gear to 23psi and the PIM voltage read 4.867V

this was only just on boost as the car is only rwd at the moment and likes to smoke 265's when it comes on boost and female passengers tend to get scared!!!

is this classified as close enough to 5V?!? maxing out?!?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Waaay ahead of ya....(evil laugh!!) Will show the fitment and spec details later when it isnt as rainy !
    • Thanks Dose.....    I appreciate it!!
    • I'll probably be putting the shit box back on the dyno again soon, I want to dial in the closed loop boost control properly. I'll have a camera facing the car/motor for fun too. Just note, there are essentially 3x 10AN inlets going into the catch can and 1x going back to the intake pipe. Most of the time the catch can "return" to the sump actually is the crank case breather, pushing air out.
    • I have the R3C with a Nismo slave and by no means does it behave like a stocker, it ain’t THAT bad. On take off just give a bit more throttle than you would say a coppermix and it’s fine. It will not slip though.   
    • Okay. Final round of testing done. Got a friend to hook up a fancy scanner to the car and we also ran some compression and leakdown tests, she is healthy.  The MAF was definitely the culprit. So for future reference anyone with similar issues that find this thread. I suggest the following steps, in order of affordability:   Check your spark plugs for any fouling, replace plugs if they are bad or re adjust the gaps making it narrower (0.8mm would be good). Check every coil's resistance with a multimeter. It can be done by probing the IB and G pins on the coil pack. Resistance should be around 1.4 (+/- 0.1) Ohms Check the MAF. If you have Nissan connect or a good scanner with the 14 adapter it should allow you to see the voltage on the MAF reading should be around 1.1 - 1.2V when car is idling. But if you don't, buy a new MAF from Amazon and test, then return it. (For instance, I got a Chinese one for $40 that was reporting 1.3v on idle). If you still have scanner, you can run tests on the injectors to see if they are working, just remember to unplug the fuel pump fuse/relay and have no pressure on the line. Then listen for the noises that the injectors make. Clean/replace injectors as needed. Once you find the issue and fix, order thousands of dollars worth of OEM parts to refresh unrelated things (Optional)   PS: Thanks to the absolute legends of this forum for the responses and help to someone that went a bit over their head. (me)
×
×
  • Create New...