Project False Floor

[Fanta R33GTR]

The Plan:

I needed somewhere to mount my new amp. I already have and amp in the car that drives my sub, but needed a neat way to mount the new amp to drive my 4 speakers. I was going to just mount it under the seat or something like that, but Ant (Arch6) convinced me to go all out and make a false boot floor. I wanted to keep the car as original looking as possible while having a functional install.

Current Setup:

Panasonic CQ-C9901 Headdeck driving 4x infiniti components

350W Alpine Amp Driving 8" Kicker Solo-Baric Square Sub

New Setup

Panasonic CQ-C9901

Rockford Fosgate P4004 driving 4x infiniti components

350W Alpine Amp Driving 8" Kicker Solo-Baric Square Sub

1 Farad Cap

I've includes plenty of photo's in-case anyone else is keen on doing this.

I still need to sand and paint the panels, so it's not quite done yet.

First, We put the car onto ramps to make the boot a nice working height that won't break out backs

This is my current setup. Amp on the left and sub on the right

Removing the bracing reveals...

Amp is mounted onto the side of the battery bay.

Amp Mount. The wires run under the amp and so all wires are nicely hidden. Probably goint to paint it black)

Next step was to make the mount for the Cap. Because there was no room and it was taller then the amp i had no choice but to mount it on top of the spare tyre.

The metal/wood plate that the Cap sits on it held in place by three very very strong magnets.

this way, if I do get a flat I just have to move the cap off the amp side and remove the spare tyre.

I could probably store some tools and my first aid kit on this side

Putting it all together

Bacause i'd raised the floor the factory carpet would no longer fit. So i had to get new carpet for the floor.

Cutting out the carpet.

Got the edge of the carpet overlocked at my local carpet place.

And we're done.

@The scissor jack can still be easily accessed even with the false floor.

@The rear struts can be removed without having to remove the lower level of the false floor.

@Total loss of boot volume is apprx 70 Litres (floor raised by approx 8.5cm)

@Total cost approx $90 for wood carpet etc..

@Took about 5 days to do (about 3 -4 hours a day) Ant and I spent alot of time leaning over the boot and staring aimlessly, pondering, day dreaming, :bored2dea :confused: etc.... Someone more focused could probably do it in a day

Edited October 25, 2007 by Fanta R33GTR

[Trust33]

tight.

[_bobo_]

great job looks very neat

i need to do exactly the same to mine dont know if i could do it that well though

[Eug]

i have never seen that rear panel/bracing before.

[Fanta R33GTR]

i have never seen that rear panel/bracing before.

Really..

I always thought that was standard R33 GTR equipment ?

Thanks

[paulr33]

yeah that rear black panel is standard on GTR

[RANDY]

Ditto to the bracing! =-o

So, a question for you...

What supports the MDF in the middle (over the spare tyre)? I did a VERY similar setup but over time the floor started to sag horribly. Laptop, shopping... nothing majorly heavy went in there.

Also, how did you mount the MDF to the floor?

Cheers!

[Fanta R33GTR]

Ditto to the bracing! =-o

So, a question for you...

What supports the MDF in the middle (over the spare tyre)? I did a VERY similar setup but over time the floor started to sag horribly. Laptop, shopping... nothing majorly heavy went in there.

Also, how did you mount the MDF to the floor?

Cheers!

The middle MDF is supported on the left side by the amp base and on the right also by the false floor base. To stop it sagging I have run 2 pieces of 2cmx2cm square aluminium tubing along the backside of the middle piece (in the photo's you can see 2 lines of screws that run along the middle piece, these fix the aluminium to the mfd) You can put enough weight on this setup to push the suspension on the car down without any sag. I used 9mm MDF. The middle board clears the cap by about .5cm, no weight is supported by the cap.

Mounting the MDF to the boot floor without making any unreversible changes was a real challenge.

The left side (amp) - There are 2 bolts that come up throught the floor. They are holding up the heatsheild for the muffler. I replaced these bolts with longer ones to give me something to bolt the floor base to.

Right side - On this side also there are 2 small bolts that come up through the floor. These are not long enough to mount the board onto, so I made up a metal plate that bolts onto the existing bolts. The plate has longer bolts attached to it so I can mount the floor to it.

I know it sounds a little confusing.. i'll upload more pics to clarify tomorrow.

Edited October 26, 2007 by Fanta R33GTR

[s13_Skyline_inside]

thats an awsome design man, just 1 question or thing id be orried about, how does the amp hold up without air around it. The reason I ask is cause ive had an amp catch fire before, it was a shit amp and not the best instalation (just got my licence, older and wiser now hopfully ) but it was placed under my drivers seat so i smelt it before anything bad could happen, and i thought mayby extra dust and lack of air circulating might have been a contributing factor.

[Fanta R33GTR]

thats an awsome design man, just 1 question or thing id be orried about, how does the amp hold up without air around it. The reason I ask is cause ive had an amp catch fire before, it was a shit amp and not the best instalation (just got my licence, older and wiser now hopfully ) but it was placed under my drivers seat so i smelt it before anything bad could happen, and i thought mayby extra dust and lack of air circulating might have been a contributing factor.

Thats the reason why I went for a very well known brand of amp. The P4004 has a huge heatsink surface and plenty of heatsink mass. I've measured the temp, using a infared thermometer, after a 90min drive with the music pumping and the hottest part on the heatsink was only 32deg, so even in summer I don't expect the amp to get above 40deg.

I was initally going to go with the jaycar 100x4 amp, but it's more compact and runs much hotter.

[ferni]

Very impressive!

I want your original amp/sub setup you have there. What sub do you run? And what are the dimensions of the amp mounted next to the battery? How do you get it in and out?

[Eug]

yeah that rear black panel is standard on GTR

my bad, does it actually do any bracing? and is it transferrable to a GTS?

nice work on the false floor it looks stock, been meaning to do something like this.

[Fanta R33GTR]

Very impressive!

I want your original amp/sub setup you have there. What sub do you run? And what are the dimensions of the amp mounted next to the battery? How do you get it in and out?

The sub is an 8" Kicker square sub. It provides around th same punch as a 10" or 12". It's a dual coil sub so it's a little more expensive but needs less volume. the volume of the sub is around 30 litres and molded to fit around the computers in the boot.

The amp is a Alpine 350

Dimensions

Width 9.5 in.

Depth 10.5 in.

Height 2.31 in.

It's actaully really easy to get the sub and amp in and out (after you've undone the 20 or so bolts for all the rear bracing and struts)

Edited November 3, 2007 by Fanta R33GTR

[Fanta R33GTR]

my bad, does it actually do any bracing? and is it transferrable to a GTS?

nice work on the false floor it looks stock, been meaning to do something like this.

That bracing does add a little stiffness, but is only a real advantage if your driving hard.

It won't straight into a GTS, but you may be able to modify it fit in. Not sure.

[RANDY]

The middle MDF is supported on the left side by the amp base and on the right also by the false floor base. To stop it sagging I have run 2 pieces of 2cmx2cm square aluminium tubing along the backside of the middle piece (in the photo's you can see 2 lines of screws that run along the middle piece, these fix the aluminium to the mfd)

The left side (amp) - There are 2 bolts that come up throught the floor. They are holding up the heatsheild for the muffler. I replaced these bolts with longer ones to give me something to bolt the floor base to.

Right side - On this side also there are 2 small bolts that come up through the floor. These are not long enough to mount the board onto, so I made up a metal plate that bolts onto the existing bolts. The plate has longer bolts attached to it so I can mount the floor to it.

Ahhh... Nicely done!

So the square tubing (of which I have plenty!) is screwed to the MDF.... but stops before the edge? That overlap would sit on the raised sections of the amp and floor mounts, then get screwed in? No.. not screwed in? You couldn't get to your tyre if that was the case. Thanks for the explanation! (and good luck pulling those hard disk magnets off the spare!!!) =-D

[Dush]

I will pay someone good cash if they can do this installation for me.... PM me if anyone knows how to do it.

i just dont have the time or patience to do this...

[Dhiv-Zilla]

My car didnt come with a brace like that - Anyone know where i can get that?

[GUN_METAL_GTR32]

My car didnt come with a brace like that - Anyone know where i can get that?

do u have a gtr. if not u wont have one

[FloydWestwood]

the amp next to the battery is a good idea. i never thought of that when i did mine.

excellent job too - looks nice!

[Fanta R33GTR]

happy to report, i;ve has the installation for about 18 months and all is good, no sagging what so ever and i've painted it all nice and sanded it.