Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

R34

1 - First pull out the ashtray and undo the screw behind it.

2 - Pull up the gear stick surround and undo the 2 silver screws at the bottom left/right of the storage bin.

3 - Using a thin flat blade screwdriver on the left side, prise out the 2 vents at the top of the console and disconnect the unit.

4 - Undo the 2 silver screw at the top of the heater controls.

5 - Pull out the heater controls, radio & stage bin (all in a cage together).

6 - Remove the radio from the cage (2 screws each side) and fit your radio.

7 - Refit going from step 5 back

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/190825-head-unit-removal/
Share on other sites

Nice guide :/ here's the 32:

R32

1. Pull out ashtray like below, undo two screws behind it

2. Flathead screwdriver under the rear of the center console, push up, it will pop out

3. Flathead screwdriver under the top half of center console, pops out, remove center console, or turn it around

4. Undo 4 screws, two either side of headunit, pull headunit out

5. Undo cage holding onto headunit, refit to new headunit, finish wiring off and put back in hole

6. Refit going backwards from 4 :D

  n15m0 said:
was I your guinea pig chris???

keeep it on topic guys.

my intent was to get this stuck to the top so everyone would stop asking how to get them out and stop filling my PM box u :spank:

jon,

can't remember done too many of the things.

  • 3 months later...

R33

remove ashtray

remove 3 screws

unclip panel around shifter

remove two more screws below radio area.

unclip main surround

unclip wiring from: clock,hazards,rear demist , A/C temp sensor, electric mirrors

remove main surround.

remove 4 screws from radio assy.

unclip HVAC and radio wiring.

contact me for pocket,harness and antenna adapter

remove 4-8 screws from radio and put yours in place.

reassemble.

Edited by Chris Rogers
  • 2 months later...
  Chris Rogers said:
R34

1 - First pull out the ashtray and undo the screw behind it.

2 - Pull up the gear stick surround and undo the 2 silver screws at the bottom left/right of the storage bin.

3 - Using a thin flat blade screwdriver on the left side, prise out the 2 vents at the top of the console and disconnect the unit.

4 - Undo the 2 silver screw at the top of the heater controls.

5 - Pull out the heater controls, radio & stage bin (all in a cage together).

6 - Remove the radio from the cage (2 screws each side) and fit your radio.

7 - Refit going from step 5 back

OK I used Chris's instructions and a couple of extra things that he told me about so here is a slightly more detailed description with pics.

1 - First pull out the ashtray and undo the screw behind it.

The ashtray just pulls out with no significant force needed. I just pulled on the open lid.

Pic1.jpg

2 - Pull up the gear stick surround and undo the 2 silver screws at the bottom left/right of the storage bin.

This takes a bit more force, I pulled from the back near the handbrake and levered it up with my fingers. I also pulled off the shift knob at this time but you could probably do it with it on but I thought it would be easier with it off. There are 2 screws at the front of the knob, put the shifter right back in low to get easier access. It takes a little bit of maneuvering to get the surround over the front of the shifter indicator and be careful not to scratch the vinyl with the hard edges of the surround. Unplug the lighter, lighter surround light and steering wheel shift switch. All plugs have a release tab, push it in or you will get real cranky trying to get em off.

Pic2.jpg

3 - Using a thin flat blade screwdriver on the left side, prize out the 2 vents at the top of the console and disconnect the unit.

This is the panel that houses the 2 vents and the hazard switch. I used some masking tape around the screwdriver to avoid scratching the vinyl when levering. Unplug the plug at rear.

Pic3.jpg

4 - Undo the 2 silver screws at the top of the heater controls.

Pic4.jpg

5 - Pull out the heater controls, radio & stage bin (all in a cage together).

I put some toweling over the lower console area to avoid scratching the vinyl.

Pic5.jpg

6 - Remove the radio from the cage (2 screws each side) and fit your radio.

I undid a couple of extra screws to "open" up the cage a bit to allow the radio to be removed and the new one installed more easily and without scratching anything.

Mine had the aerial adapter already fitted as there was already an aftermarket deck installed but the previous fitter had butchered the wiring loom so it was a bit more work to re-wire all the wires in a decent manner but if you are removing the stock deck then get the correct plug adapters and aerial adapter available from Chris or some auto outlets. I also bundle any wire slack in some padded tape to avoid any rubbing or rattling later on.

Pic6.jpg

7 - Refit going from step 5 back

I connected everything up and tried all deck functions before re-fitting the cage permanently just in case but luckily for me all went to plan.

Hope this helps, Mark.

  • 5 months later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...

this really helped me out!!

I just thought i would add that to get the gear surround out it actually a little lever point for you to put a screwdriver by the handbreak at the back. i was having trouble working out how to get it off untill i spotted that.

  • 3 months later...
  • 3 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...

might sound stupid but, how do u disconnect the plug behind (the wire connection) the car lighter, there are two of them, one is bigger than the other... seems like it would not come off however from the picture above, obviously 2KR34 can took them it off..

i just dont want to break it because i use it for a lot of thing to charge my ipod, gps, and when i left my lighter.... basically half of my life depends on it.. :)

pls help someone

its for a 34 btw

cheers

bly

  • 6 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I get that taking off the head is best but that's a bit much for "just" valve seals. I was just under the impression that one would be able to rotate to TDC and be able to temporarily drop the valve without losing it and effectively having to remove the head to then recover it. I never knew people actually pushed rope into the cylinder to do valve seals hahaha So just to confirm, just going to TDC will not work? In that case I know when I do valve seals I'll maybe just remove the head and do some other things while I'm there, or just wait until I do an engine build.
    • The old approach was to fill the cylinder/chamber with a length of rope pushed in through the sparkplug hole. The new approach is to connect compressed air to the sparkplug hole and fill it with enough pressure to push the valves up. Doing either of these things with the head on and the engine in the car is a lot less pleasant than doing it properly.
    • Can't you put the pistons to TDC and then do the valve seals? Or will the drop down too far to pull them back up?
    • One thing I can tell you is, do it properly the first time. If you encounter unexpected problems just let the car sit for a week or two if you have to get some other parts or figure stuff out.  I'd have said go and use as many OEM parts as possible but since you want to change the turbo later on a custom kit is probably the better choice. Since I have no experience with RB25 just compare parts diagrams and images before buying a line kit and it should be easy to see if it has everything you need. Amayama has very good parts diagrams and part number lists, that is what I used a bunch to figure out what I might need. And don't forget to plan ahead and possibly renew other stuff that's easy to get to while you're in there doing the turbo lines. Happy wrenching
    • Update 4:   Hi all, good news. Engine is running and all the gaskets and seals seem to be working as intended. No leaks so far, even the JB Weld seems to hold. I flushed out the old coolant a few times and put in fresh coolant, not Nissan stuff, I decided to try the Ravenol Protect FL22, they claim it works for a wide variety of JDM cars and the opinions on it by some people were pretty good. And it has the nice poison green color! And man am I glad I bought a coolant system tester earlier this year, vacuum filling works wonders on this engine. I can definitely recommend this to anyone still doing it the old school way. All you need is compressed air supply. Will have to do a small test drive as soon as I can, I removed the gauge cluster again as the tacho needle was still bouncing around a bit but it was much better than before already.  I also found some cracks on all 4 tires inner and outer sidewalls. Apparently these tires should 't be parked on for extended periods or be kept under 0 degrees during storage, which I did not know. Clearly the previous owner didn't look into those details either, he probably bought them just cause they are cool semi-slicks. I'm just wondering how tf I am supposed to reach 30-80 degree tire temperatures on the public road consistenly, these tires were never going to work for my use case. I'll probably order Continental SportContact7 ones as these are the best allround summer tire available right now and I don't think I'll need anything crazier for now. Do let me know if you have experience with various tires and which ones you recommend.
×
×
  • Create New...