Jump to content
SAU Community

Wheel Fitment On A R32? Having Trouble Fitting Some 18s

thanglongz

By thanglongz,
in Exterior & Interior Styling

 Share

Recommended Posts

thanglongz Rising Star

thanglongz

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hey guys,

Here's the story, I bought a set of Work Eurolines for next to nothing. They measure 18x8 offset 35+ up front and 18x9 offset 37+ on the rears. After trial fitting them I realise that to clear the calipers on the front I'd need approx. 23-25mm spacers.

So to fit the rims with a 25mm spacer, what are the possible issues I am faced with? I asked a friend and he says they will stick out the stock guards by a few mm.

I was thinking, I have the options of:

A) Rolling and flaring the front guards

B) Stretch the tyres and hope for dear god they wont scrub

C) Just roll the guard and stretch the tyres

D) A and B

E) Sell them

Cheers for any input

Edited by thanglongz
Mr Eps Grand Master

Mr Eps

Posted
Posted

i honestly don't get how they could not clear the brake calipers!?!?

are you using housebricks as brake calipers?

that baffles me, you shouldn't need 25 mm spacers dude,

and you DEFINATELY shouldn't have to be rolling the guards

tyre stretching is more effective

i'm truly baffled are you SURE that's the offset?!

n15m0 Grand Master

n15m0

Posted
Posted

don't be baffled...offset does not decide whether ur wheels clear calipers or not..its the disk type or spoke design...most jap wheels include these as part of their specs eg: A disk, Odisk or R disk..

I was in the exact same position as you few yrs back when I imported wheels from japan, thinking because I have +35 now and they fit, the new ones should fit too...wrong! I tried spacers but in the end sold them and got the correct spec'd wheels to fit..

I'd choose E...spacers are illegal and I don't like rolling guards..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Help Understand GTT Boost Setup

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      But we haven't even gotten to the point of talking about stateless controllers or any of the good stuff yet!
    • Duncan
      Help Understand GTT Boost Setup

      By Duncan · Posted

      You guys need to take this discussion to another thread if you want to continue it, most of the last 2 pages has nothing to do with OP's questions and situation
    • MBS206
      Help Understand GTT Boost Setup

      By MBS206 · Posted

      And this, is just ONE major issue for closed loop control, particularly using PID. One such issue that is created right here, is integrator wind up. But you know GTSBoy, "it's just a simple PID controller"...  
    • GTSBoy
      Help Understand GTT Boost Setup

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Nah. For something like boost control I wouldn't start my design with PID. I'd go with something that originates in the fuzzy logic world and use an emergency function or similar concept. PID can and does work, but at its fundamental level it is not suited to quick action. I'd be reasonably sure that the Profecs et al all transitioned to a fuzzy algorithm back in the 90s. Keep in mind also that where and when I have previously talked about using a Profec, I'm usually talking about only doing an open loop system anyway. All this talk of PID and other algorithms only comes into play when you're talking closed loop boost control, and in the context of what the OP needs and wants, we're probably actually in the realm of open loop anyway. Closed loop boost control has always bothered me, because if you sense the process value (ie the boost measurement that you want to control) in the plenum (after the throttle), then boost control to achieve a target is only desirable at WOT. When you are not WOT, you do not want the the boost to be as high as it can be (ie 100% of target). That's why you do not have the throttle at WO. You're attempting to not go as fast as you can. If the process variable is measured upstream of the throttle (ie in an RB26 plenum, or the cold side pipework in others) then yeah, sure, run the boost controller closed loop to hit a target boost there, and then the throttle does what it is supposed to do. Just for utter clarity.... an old Profec B Spec II (or whatever it is called, and I've got one, and I never look at it, so I can't remember!) and similar might have a MAP sensor, and it might show you the actual boost in the plenum (when the MAP sensor is connected to the plenum) but it does not use that value to decide what it is doing to control the boost, except to control the gating effect (where it stops holding the gate closed on the boost ramp). It's not closed loop at all. Once the gate is released, it's just the solenoid flailing away at whatever duty cycle was configured when it was set up. I'm sure that there are many people who do not understand the above points and wonder wtf is going on.  
    • joshuaho96
      Help Understand GTT Boost Setup

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      This has clearly gone off on quite a tangent but the suggestion was "go standalone because you probably aren't going to stop at just exhaust + a mild tune and manual boost controller", not "buy a standalone purely for a boost controller". If the scope does in fact stop creeping at an EBC then sure, buy an EVC7 or Profec or whatever else people like to run and stop there. And I have yet to see any kind of aftermarket boost control that is more complicated than a PID controller with some accounting for edge cases. Control system theory is an incredibly vast field yet somehow we always end up back at some variant of a PID controller, maybe with some work done to linearize things. I have done quite a lot, but I don't care to indulge in those pissing matches, hence posting primary sources. I deal with people quite frequently that scream and shout about how their opinion matters more because they've shipped more x or y, it doesn't change the reality of the data they're trying to disagree with. Arguing that the source material is wrong is an entirely separate point and while my experience obviously doesn't matter here I've rarely seen factory service manuals be incorrect about something. It's not some random poorly documented internal software tool that is constantly being patched to barely work. It's also not that hard to just read the Japanese and double check translations either. Especially in automotive parts most of it is loanwords anyways.
×
×
  • Create New...